Synapse Synchronic BOV Review Evo IX MR
Dec 17, 2009, 09:30 AM
#16
a customer of mine went from the APS twin vent I suggested to try the synapse to see if it would handle some minor red surging he was feeling. As it turned out this actually made it worse and he returned to the APS twin vent. His feeling was that the synapse was a little too sensitive.
Dec 18, 2009, 06:18 PM
#18
Ive got an 8 not a 9 but i got mine installed and i didnt even notice a difference between the two in driveability but i get all the VRRRR and no PSHHHH i guess i need to upgrade my ic piping and get a cold air to hear it?
Edit: After driving a little more i dont know why but driveability seams actually a bit better i cant explain it but it is, and if i turn music off and listen verrrrrrrry closely i hear like a baby mouse sneeze some times lol
Edit: After driving a little more i dont know why but driveability seams actually a bit better i cant explain it but it is, and if i turn music off and listen verrrrrrrry closely i hear like a baby mouse sneeze some times lol
Last edited by Skott2k; Dec 18, 2009 at 09:18 PM.
Dec 20, 2009, 06:29 PM
#23
I'm also running this bov. Its awesome. I have port a and c connected. I had both a and b connected and it fluttered. I removed port b and its perfect now. I had a crushed 9 bov before this running 30 Psi. I hooked this up and had to turn the boost down. Highly recommended
I just moved the vacuum hose from port a to b and this is now the best setting for me.
Dec 20, 2009, 10:19 PM
#25
I have no idea why these things are so finicky? Very strange indeed. Simply added Port A as a vacuum source from the stock location and then T'd a line of my EBC (AEM Tru-Boost) to Port C, and Voila I have my Evo IX BOV up for sale just like that. It works JUST as well as stock in terms of drive-ability but holds all the boost I ask it too, which is 26-27PSI.
I am really confused by the fluttering issues, it HAS TO BE THE SPRING TENSION!!! Adjust your spring back a little, I bet that is it.
I am really confused by the fluttering issues, it HAS TO BE THE SPRING TENSION!!! Adjust your spring back a little, I bet that is it.
Jan 17, 2010, 10:09 AM
#28
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Im running a BBK Full at the moment and think my Std IX dv is on its way out as i run 2bar and the car doesn't seem to pull or drive like it use to & i've notice after long journeys i get an engine light. Do you have a kit so i can plug and play so to speak as i live in the UK? what deal can you do posted to UK?
Jan 17, 2010, 10:25 AM
#30
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I just put on my Synapse Synchronic BOV after much skepticism and mixed reviews on this site. You know this BOV as advertised as a sort of Application Killer, having stock BOV characteristics yet can hold massive boost.
Before this we were saddled with powerful BOV's that fluttered on anything but WOT. Some of us had tried the HKS SSQV unit only to have the car fall on the face over and over again. TIAL's work great if you VTA which is a no-no for a Maf equipped car and you have to play with the spring combination.
So flash back to earlier this evening I removed a PERFECTLY GOOD and properly working Stock IX MR BOV. We immediately hit issues installing this unit as I had to be Mr. Fancy Pants and install a metal Upper Radiator hose. The Synchronic BOV is HUGE in comparison to any stock unit so we had to loosen my intake pipe and rotate it as far as it would go towards the nose of the car. We also had to loosen the stock recirculation hose and clock it to just BARELY fit the BOV. It fit but JUST fit.
As you can see it clears barley and the Stock BOV on the battery looks mighty jealous.
I run the AEM True-Boost so I simply split the boost line and T'd it from there as a boost source to Nipple C. I used the OEM vacuum source for the OEM BOV to Nipple A, I left Nipple B alone and that was that.
Driving Impressions? Spool-up is faster, plain and simple, black and white. The Turbo is more responsive and hits harder. I had to lower my boost considerably as well. The OEM MR BOV probably was leaking under spool-up and WOT. The car hits boost so fast and keeps it there. The car just feels more powerful over all, I am running 27PSI BTW.
Drive-ability? Seriously? Better then stock. No exaggeration it acts identically to the OEM BOV yet it doesn't leak so even part throttle summons more boost then anticipated. I also had to lower the crack pressure on my True-Boost (the point where the Sensor starts telling the wastegate to open) to a lower 7 PSI Vs. 9 PSI before.
It makes the car drive so much better, the turbo is just flat out more responsive.
This thing works as advertised.
Before this we were saddled with powerful BOV's that fluttered on anything but WOT. Some of us had tried the HKS SSQV unit only to have the car fall on the face over and over again. TIAL's work great if you VTA which is a no-no for a Maf equipped car and you have to play with the spring combination.
So flash back to earlier this evening I removed a PERFECTLY GOOD and properly working Stock IX MR BOV. We immediately hit issues installing this unit as I had to be Mr. Fancy Pants and install a metal Upper Radiator hose. The Synchronic BOV is HUGE in comparison to any stock unit so we had to loosen my intake pipe and rotate it as far as it would go towards the nose of the car. We also had to loosen the stock recirculation hose and clock it to just BARELY fit the BOV. It fit but JUST fit.
As you can see it clears barley and the Stock BOV on the battery looks mighty jealous.
I run the AEM True-Boost so I simply split the boost line and T'd it from there as a boost source to Nipple C. I used the OEM vacuum source for the OEM BOV to Nipple A, I left Nipple B alone and that was that.
Driving Impressions? Spool-up is faster, plain and simple, black and white. The Turbo is more responsive and hits harder. I had to lower my boost considerably as well. The OEM MR BOV probably was leaking under spool-up and WOT. The car hits boost so fast and keeps it there. The car just feels more powerful over all, I am running 27PSI BTW.
Drive-ability? Seriously? Better then stock. No exaggeration it acts identically to the OEM BOV yet it doesn't leak so even part throttle summons more boost then anticipated. I also had to lower the crack pressure on my True-Boost (the point where the Sensor starts telling the wastegate to open) to a lower 7 PSI Vs. 9 PSI before.
It makes the car drive so much better, the turbo is just flat out more responsive.
This thing works as advertised.
cheers