water meth or nitrous???
Mar 29, 2009, 09:25 PM
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
water meth or nitrous???
hey guys, i was looking to do cams valvetrain and pistons and rods in my evo 9 mr... of course ill be doing new bearing and headstuds and all that stuff just to keep it safer... but question is that i dont kno what i should use as a bigger power adder, either nitrous or meth injection... plz ppl give me some ideas with valid back up info... i rele appreciate everything...later
Mar 30, 2009, 09:03 PM
#3
Newbie
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Try contacting SearchButtonPerformance. You can find them here https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/search.php
Trending Topics
Mar 22, 2010, 05:07 PM
#9
I've run the sauce before..... my take on it these days is stay away. If you have an EVO there's no need for it. Been there done that..... Its great for the occational need for more go.... but...
1. Its too easy to add a bigger jet. You may slap on a 50 shot and your car will love it. It may run perfect. Then you slap on a 75 shot and man oh man the car just rips and everything is in tune. Eventually you will build a false sense of security and try to add that 100 shot. This may actually work a few times but have one hickup with anything spark, fuel, knock, and WHAM!
2. The bottle is not instantly up to operating pressure. Even on 70 degree days a full bottle will need to be heated using a heater. That being said on 90 degree days the bottle may be over pressurized and you'll have to wait for it to cool down before spraying. When I say use the heater sometimes it takes 30-45 minutes to get a half full bottle up too 950PSI. In summary unless you open the bottle everytime you leave the house (and heat it) you wont be prepared for a drag race. You cannot just open the bottle on 1st ave and be ready to lay waste at 2nd ave.
3. Unless you own your own filling station and purchase a mother bottle from a gas/chem company you will probably get raped on the price you pay for nitrous. Around here I get charged $4.50/LB and a $5 hookup fee. I dropped the cash on purchased my own filling station. This dropped the price down to about $2.90/LB. Depending upon your location your prices may vary.
4. It's too easy to add a bigger shot
5. There is additional added fear that a part may fail and the motor may say goodbye. If your fuel solinoid takes a crap during a pass bad things could happen. Sure there are many safety items you can buy to prevent some issues but it is likely sooner or later something not soo good will happen. Bad things have happened to me. I actually melted a valve when I picked up a tank of bad gas. Apparently in some states they have enthanol "enhanced" fuel. This fuel was a poor choice to run with juice. I definately would recommend running race gas with laughing gas. I also had a nitrous backfire. I believe my bottle pressure wasn't quite where it needed to be (might have been cold) and when I went to spray I blew then entire intake side off the motor. The explosion was so massive it bent my throttle body blade. Motor was fine but I shat myself when it happend. I've also missed a shift and went WOT while on the juice since there was no load on the motor I didn't notice any fallout but if I had actually done a 1-2-3-2 shift and dumped the clutch there would have been pieces and parts everywhere.
6. It's too easy to add a bigger shot
7. You have to prep your car for juice. On a turbo car you WILL need to pull timing and if you are running bleeding edge boost you'll have to back it down because nitrous will cause it to creep. Prepping your car also means running the correct spark plugs and odds are your clutch will not appreciate it at all. If you are serious about keeping your motor healthy you'll have to check your plugs after each session of spraying. Reading plus is about the best way to determine how the motor is responding. In the end its very cheap power IF you run a big shot, but with all the cons that come with it it may just be BETTER to upgrade something else, get a little less power, but have it all the time.
Some more info..... if you are using stock launch control you aren't going to use juice from the dig. You'll probably flip the switch after getting into second gear. If you aren't using LC you can use self control to not nail the pedal all the way down until you have traction and full clutch engagement. It helps to add an MSD RPM window switch to save you from too early of engagement or from an accidental miss shift.
With race fuel you will not need to retard timing. On 100 you should be able to run 23psi and a 75 shot on your 93 octane pump gas map. I wouldn't recommend a dry system that would require increasing fuel pressure and its just a PITA to work with on a boosted car. If you are serious about nitrous a direct port system is the hot ticket but most people stick with the single fogger wet system. I prefer Nitrous Express but NOS is very good too. You'll find jetting charts that are a little different between vendors but NX rates their gains at the wheels. A 31 is a 35WHP shot. A 35 is a 50WHP shot. A 42 is a 75WHP shot. I ran a 46N/26F which was good for an additional 100FT/LBS of torque and 87WHP. The numbers will be different for each platform as they are rated gains on a stock car. If you have cams and your buddy doesn't you will see different gains.
My advice is get all the bolt on mods first then if you feel you still need a secret weapon, toss on the sauce. Its expensive. I got about 10 full 1/4 mile runs out of a 10LB bottle with the 46N jet. Putting into terms that make sense..... each race cost me $5 in nitrous. Each full pass cost the same as eating at Burger King. You have to have self control to use it only during a time of need or you'll see the associated cost add up very quickly.
1. Its too easy to add a bigger jet. You may slap on a 50 shot and your car will love it. It may run perfect. Then you slap on a 75 shot and man oh man the car just rips and everything is in tune. Eventually you will build a false sense of security and try to add that 100 shot. This may actually work a few times but have one hickup with anything spark, fuel, knock, and WHAM!
2. The bottle is not instantly up to operating pressure. Even on 70 degree days a full bottle will need to be heated using a heater. That being said on 90 degree days the bottle may be over pressurized and you'll have to wait for it to cool down before spraying. When I say use the heater sometimes it takes 30-45 minutes to get a half full bottle up too 950PSI. In summary unless you open the bottle everytime you leave the house (and heat it) you wont be prepared for a drag race. You cannot just open the bottle on 1st ave and be ready to lay waste at 2nd ave.
3. Unless you own your own filling station and purchase a mother bottle from a gas/chem company you will probably get raped on the price you pay for nitrous. Around here I get charged $4.50/LB and a $5 hookup fee. I dropped the cash on purchased my own filling station. This dropped the price down to about $2.90/LB. Depending upon your location your prices may vary.
4. It's too easy to add a bigger shot
5. There is additional added fear that a part may fail and the motor may say goodbye. If your fuel solinoid takes a crap during a pass bad things could happen. Sure there are many safety items you can buy to prevent some issues but it is likely sooner or later something not soo good will happen. Bad things have happened to me. I actually melted a valve when I picked up a tank of bad gas. Apparently in some states they have enthanol "enhanced" fuel. This fuel was a poor choice to run with juice. I definately would recommend running race gas with laughing gas. I also had a nitrous backfire. I believe my bottle pressure wasn't quite where it needed to be (might have been cold) and when I went to spray I blew then entire intake side off the motor. The explosion was so massive it bent my throttle body blade. Motor was fine but I shat myself when it happend. I've also missed a shift and went WOT while on the juice since there was no load on the motor I didn't notice any fallout but if I had actually done a 1-2-3-2 shift and dumped the clutch there would have been pieces and parts everywhere.
6. It's too easy to add a bigger shot
7. You have to prep your car for juice. On a turbo car you WILL need to pull timing and if you are running bleeding edge boost you'll have to back it down because nitrous will cause it to creep. Prepping your car also means running the correct spark plugs and odds are your clutch will not appreciate it at all. If you are serious about keeping your motor healthy you'll have to check your plugs after each session of spraying. Reading plus is about the best way to determine how the motor is responding. In the end its very cheap power IF you run a big shot, but with all the cons that come with it it may just be BETTER to upgrade something else, get a little less power, but have it all the time.
Some more info..... if you are using stock launch control you aren't going to use juice from the dig. You'll probably flip the switch after getting into second gear. If you aren't using LC you can use self control to not nail the pedal all the way down until you have traction and full clutch engagement. It helps to add an MSD RPM window switch to save you from too early of engagement or from an accidental miss shift.
With race fuel you will not need to retard timing. On 100 you should be able to run 23psi and a 75 shot on your 93 octane pump gas map. I wouldn't recommend a dry system that would require increasing fuel pressure and its just a PITA to work with on a boosted car. If you are serious about nitrous a direct port system is the hot ticket but most people stick with the single fogger wet system. I prefer Nitrous Express but NOS is very good too. You'll find jetting charts that are a little different between vendors but NX rates their gains at the wheels. A 31 is a 35WHP shot. A 35 is a 50WHP shot. A 42 is a 75WHP shot. I ran a 46N/26F which was good for an additional 100FT/LBS of torque and 87WHP. The numbers will be different for each platform as they are rated gains on a stock car. If you have cams and your buddy doesn't you will see different gains.
My advice is get all the bolt on mods first then if you feel you still need a secret weapon, toss on the sauce. Its expensive. I got about 10 full 1/4 mile runs out of a 10LB bottle with the 46N jet. Putting into terms that make sense..... each race cost me $5 in nitrous. Each full pass cost the same as eating at Burger King. You have to have self control to use it only during a time of need or you'll see the associated cost add up very quickly.
May 20, 2011, 12:30 PM
#11
Newbie
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Amarillo, TX
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
they're different purposes. Meth/water mix gives you the ability to drive around every day with pump gas (do it right and run 87 octane all the time) and great power. NOS is for serious power (racing) for very brief moments. Personally, I prefer to run without NOS (see all the complications above) and never have to worry about all the issues.
Nov 5, 2011, 08:05 AM
#12
Evolving Member
iTrader: (56)
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Florida 34609
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
With spray I think it would have a much better hit then a nice meth kit but meth would be safer in the long run IMO.
Last edited by Jetfixrguy; Nov 6, 2011 at 07:32 AM.
Sep 26, 2012, 10:03 PM
#13
Why would you want to run 87 all the time on meth? Who the heck does that?
they're different purposes. Meth/water mix gives you the ability to drive around every day with pump gas (do it right and run 87 octane all the time) and great power. NOS is for serious power (racing) for very brief moments. Personally, I prefer to run without NOS (see all the complications above) and never have to worry about all the issues.
