pocoRA

iTrader: (4)

Tools needed:

-12mm Wrench
-10mm Line Wrench
(You can use a non-line wrench, but be careful.)

This is a simple upgrade install that involves more pictures than words.
The only difficult/time consuming part of this install would be bleeding
the clutch.

Removal:

1. Remove your intake system. (not necessary if you already have a CAI)
2. Loosen each 10mm nut on the end of each side of the slave orifice.
3. Loosen the (2) 12mm bolts that secure the clutch slave orifice to the
transmission and remove as a whole piece.
4. Install the new steel braided line.
5. Bleed the clutch system and check for leaks.
-Bleeding the clutch will require 2 people
-Make sure brake fluid reservoir is full past the max line.
-Have someone in the car pump the clutch a few times, then open the bleeder valve, and have them push the clutch to the floor and hold it there, while the clutch is to the floor, shut the bleeder valve.
-Repeat that until there is a steady stream of fluid coming out of the bleeder valve, then top off the fluid, and you're done.


EDIT: The slave orifice [shown in picture #2] is located below the intake, mounted to the transmission housing, it is silver with a copper base.

The bleeder valve is located in picture #1 on the blue clutch piece, it looks like a silver nipple it's pointing slightly up and towards the front of the vehicle.

The brake fluid reservoir also acts as the clutch fluid reservoir, located under the hood near the drivers side windshield.

ooralliartoo

iTrader: (1)

nice how to

vonzipper

iTrader: (1)

what does the ss clutch line actully do

pocoRA

iTrader: (4)

Well, ive noticed that the clutch engages/disengages much quicker now, should make changing gears and launching a bit quicker.

AdamRA

iTrader: (2)

Is there a negative effect to this mod?

pocoRA

iTrader: (4)

I think that if you're new to manual transmission you should avoid it for a yr or so, the slave cylinder is like a device that protects the clutch from being slammed into gear, it basicly slows and softens the clutch engagement, but to someone who is experienced with manual transmission, I cant see any negative.

AdamRA

iTrader: (2)

So you could say that it might put more wear and tear on the clutch?

GEARS

iTrader: (5)

Yes removing the restrictor will allow you to dump the clutch hard enough to fatigue drivetrain parts, everything from the flywheel between the flywheel and the tires.



I'm leaving the restrictor in.

KazzEvo8

iTrader: (2)

Make SURE you bleed it WELL!

pocoRA

iTrader: (4)

ya, depending onhow you drive it could add some wear and tear, you could remove it and drive normally and it wouldnt make any difference though.

Myszkewicz

iTrader: (2)

The restrictor just protects you from yourself. Something I don't think I need in this case.

sillypuddy

iTrader: (1)

actually it's a bad thing since you learn the "wrong" way to drive a manual, i think it's good that people remove them and get use to the engagement right away

-joe

ErikT

iTrader: (3)

This assumes we already know what a "slave orifice" is and how to locate the "bleeder valve". No help to me compadres. Looks like the shop gets another 35 bucks from me.

bigdoggy_dog

iTrader: (1)

I was thinking the same thing after reading the write ups for this. I finally just said F it and went and did it myself. It is EXTREMELY easy. Save your money and do it yourself. Even the bleeding, which people make sound harder than it actually is, was easy as hell. Advice:

1. You don't need a lot of brake fluid. I put hardly any back in the reservior.

2. Don't waste you money on a speed bleeder. As quickly as the bleeding can be done you are better off just getting a buddy to work the clutch for you.

This entire install can be done in like 30 minutes, and that's including taking the intake off. You could do it in 60 minutes if you wanna take some breaks and drink a beer or two. I think we need more people that don't know jack about cars to do these write ups when they complete something. I'm in that category, so maybe I need to step up to the plate. People that are car savvy make a lot of assumptions about what the average car owner knows.

bigdoggy_dog

iTrader: (1)

Oh yeah, the bleeder valve is kinda shown in that first picture. It's connected to the blue piece you see. It's a nut that is actually blocked in that picture by the silver metal piece. All you do is loosen it up to bleed the clutch. Don't worry about brake fluid pouring out everywhere, worst that will happen when you are taking this apart is you'll get some drips. I'd still use a drip pan.