VENOMJR

Axels are fine, it's a front sensor.

VENOMJR

Thanks I will look into it.
Are you on R Comps?

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

no, i use street tires when i'm lapping/autoX, i have Hoosier R6's on 15" steelies for the drag strip. My last set of tires were Kumho Ecsta SPT, they're 320 treadwear, they were really good for the most part when i was not turbocharged. They do have pretty soft sidewalls, so they're decent on the strip, but not desireable. With the turbo i could spin both tires all the way through second gear from like 3,000 rpm. So i'm in the market for stickier tires for this year.

*edit

i cross referenced the Evolution8/9, eclipse GS 3rd and 4th generation, FWD outlander, and the base lancers...the only ABS sensors that were the same were the Lancer ES and OZ rally of the same generation...

R/Asportback

THREAD RIVIVAL
by and chance did u need to buy the whole hub assembly? or is it possible to just do the bearings with our cars? I have to go on a long drive in the next couple weeks and my bearings are making a horrible whooping sound and vibrating, and money is a little tight so im hoping I can just do the bearings as I have access to a bearing tool.

2006_RA

iTrader: (1)

For the front this is what I bought :
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...553&cc=1432579

Good luck.

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

you need a shop press and some bearing/seal seating dies...and some othe rrandom **** for like spacers and whatever for pressiing ****...uh, also the sna ring is probaly rusted to all sorts of ****, and will be ****ty to get it out...normal long handle bent nose needle nose plier will compress a brand new ring, but i wouldn't even bother trying to remove it in such a manner...my suggestion is destroy it...i found that penetratiing lubricant, punches and various common screw drivers were more useful. f course hammer...i had some beer earlier, hope this makes sense///

R/Asportback

HAHAHA thanks crans yea, I took my car to a guy who said he could do it, and he got half way through and said he couldn't. so now me and the "mad scientists" need to rip apart my front end at my house, and try to get the knuckles to place to get them pressed in. I told them to bring ALOT of beer and their biggest hammers, and any lil tips for the snap ring? it seems mine is seized

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

use a regular punch and some PB blaster or whatever, and tap (hard) the ring all around repeatedly to try and break it free...for my driver side, the little hooks at the open end of the ring was completely rusted off, making the next step very difficult. then, if you can get a punch into the hook and try to either get the whole ring to spin, which would then allow it to be compressed...or try to punch one of the hook ends inward, then get a couple sturdy common screwdrivers between the ring and the knuckle and coax it out that way...worst case scenario, you may need to cut it as much as you can and then break it...this process took me a few hours when I had to do it....the passenger side work with the punch and screwdriver coaxing method, and took only about 15 minutes...

also when pressing the bearing out...you may find that even with max hydraulic pressure, it won't budge...before putting too much force with the press, get a metal hammer and tap all around the knuckle...the vibration tends to break it free...just be careful cause if you have a lot of force on it, it will give way quite violently.

.M.

I remember helping a friend with his corolla. Same situation. Lots of swearing on his part

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

wheel bearings are probably one of the most frustrating jobs to do...I'm just glad I got both done, and they should be good for another few years...

Kasper

I usually just buy the whole assembly as one.... It is a lot less of a headache.. I learned the hard way....

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

I make decent money, but if I had to pay for automotive labour, and extra parts for the sake of ease, with the insurance rates and cost of fuel where I live, I'd be broke...I don't know how the guys I work with do it...I mean the single guys, and D.I.N.K.'s I get it, but the rest of us....


in the past 6 years, I've had 3 (road worthy) cars, only two at a time (and never making payments on two at once), but between them, 3 clutches, 3 transmission rebuilds, 2 timing belts, 2 water pumps, 5 wheel bearings, 10 struts, 16 tires, about 12 brake pads, 6 rotors, I could say 20 or more oil changes, the list goes on...plus all the mods on my RA I'm still under $30k including the outright cost of the vehicles, which is what ONE average, and decent (non-economy) car can cost over 5 years new (even with low or zero initial interest), NOT including maintenance and oil changes...I think I did alright, though the tools I've collected in those years would definitely put me over $30k.