BlackRaven

iTrader: (8)

Before I got a piggy fully installed, the stock ECU was able to compensate for some changes (in my case, Walbro 255 and the blue top WRX 440's). Are you hooking up a piggy/standalone with the fuel setup components so you can monitor/adjust while still N/A?

ant_BLR

iTrader: (7)

so is the fuel return system called THE FUEL ASSEMBLY if you were to buy it from the dealer?

Ralli04

no ill just be running the stock ecu for now. i guess ill purchase RRM's piggy after the fuel system upgrade. would/should i also get a A/F controller or would the piggy eliminate the need for that? and those 440's...might sound like a dumb question but why are you running those in particular and should that be something i should do along with the fuel system upgrade and the conversion to a return system?

BlackRaven

iTrader: (8)

Ideally, if you've got the tuning dialed in with the piggy, the A/F ratio will be where you want it to be. However, you're going to want a wideband A/F gauge to make sure your fuel setup (piggy included) is providing enough fuel under boost (to make sure it's doing it's job). You'll find this in a lot of other threads, and if you already know this, I apologize; the magic ratio for N/A is 14.7. Under most circumstances, the stock ECU will fight (yes, fight) to make this ratio happen. Under boost, you want this number to sit *usually* around 11.5-12.0 (give or take).

The 440's: I chose them because they're the right impedence for our car, the right flow for my power goals (sub 300hp), and you can find them cheap on Subaru forums (those guys are always upgrading their injectors to run more boost...I got mine from a member on i-Club for $75 shipped). RRM's kit uses a 5th injector, in addition to the stock 4. The piggy RRM uses does have the capacity to compensate for larger injectors, though I'm still testing/keeping an eye on my fuel trims to make sure my setup is working. I am using the Split Second turbo piggy from RRM for fuel and timing, and a Split Second ESC1 to create a "false open loop" once I hit 1psi of boost. 1000+ miles and so far so good... However, if you are going 4 injectors, you will need more flow than what the stock ones can provide.

Ralli04

anyone have or can find a pic of the fuel filter assembly you need out of the 02-03 lancer?? his link to it doesnt work anymore and im having trouble finding a picture

Corton520

iTrader: (1)

Wow, so what happened to this thread? I recently got my RA last year and now is planning to turbo in the future, so far it was helpful then it died...what happened?

deathsythe99

dont know lol im planning on doing this to

turboart

i must know this outcome!

markmetivier14

I have the 2004 RA and i wanna turbo it but im not paying 4000+ dollars for it. Anyone know of a good turbo kit for around 1000?

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

not gonna happen, sorry.

I agree $4000+ is a rip off, but if that's your budget, you can:

A. Buy cheap chinese universal Ebay turbo kit, and find yourself a turbo manifold and downpipe. Then figure out how to get it to work on your engine.

or

B. Find quailty used turbo parts, and again, figure it out yourself. There's lots of information on the board, you just gotta dig, this topic is not so hot anymore.


That being said, Even with the above options, you'll most likely end up going over such a modest budget. The cheapest brand-new, well-made, authentic turbo on the market is probably an Evo 3 Big 16g (not to be confused with an Evo 3 GT, which is a knock off) at around 600$, try getting the rest for 400$ good luck. Not to mention you'll need a good 400-500$ clutch kit to hold the extra power. And don't forget taxes.

For example:

What i have:

14b turbo - 50$
TD05 turbo rebuild kit - 50$
TD05 O2 housing - free (might fit)
Custom manifold - 110$ in steel, shipping included (fabricating it myself)
2004 Subaru WRX 440cc injectors - 60$
AEM UEGO wideband w/ sensor - 80$
1g DSM Blow-off valve - 30$
1g DSM Sidemount intercooler - free
Misc. Intercooler piping and silicone couplers - 20$ (still need a few pieces)
Oil Feed fitting/Line - 20$/free
Water feed lines - free
ECU Reflash/Tune - 500$
Clutch - 150$ (great deal, don't count on it)
TOTAL - 1070$

What i need:

3 BAR MAP sensor - 120$
All gaskets and hardware - could be another 100$ or more
Turbo Balancing after rebuild - depends, could be 60$, could be 200$
Downpipe - whatever the steel will cost, and again fabricating it myself
Rest of I/C piping - not sure, might just buy a universal kit, and hack it up (don't forget flanges for MAF, BOV etc.)
Another Tune - Whatever Hackish wants for the job

So as you can see, even with used parts and great deals, it is very difficult to put together a turbo build for 1000$, Seeing as the only reason we are able to tune via ECU is Hackish spent the time and money to solve the mystery of the 4G69 ECU (and is the only one we know of to have done it to the extent he has), and so the cost of a reflash is cover all the time he spent working on it. feel free to prove me wrong, infact you could probably get a used RRM piggyback for less, and scam a turbo map from someone who is generous and has one, but it's made for the 5th injector setup, and the parts their kit comes with, so you'd probably be screwed there anyway. But my project is to prove the very same thing you are asking about, and that's where i am currently, if you need any more info, PM me.

-Garrett

OttRalliart05

$4000 for a well built kit is not bad but it depends on what you will get. I am assuming you are not using 304 stainless steel on your manifold? As you can see from other kits it just wont hold for long. The big things you cant cheap out on are:

Manifold sched 10 ss minimum $500-$700
Turbo has to match the engine output and the HP gains you want. If to small the boost builds to fast and the car becomes annoying to drive. $500-$700
http://www.turboneticsinc.com/choose_turbocharger (good guide)
BOV cheap ones wont work and will always leak causing rough idle Bosch $60-$80
Wastegate no need to go on about this and how important it is. $250-$350
Engine management we all know piggybacks dont work on this car. Standalone or reflash only way to do it. Standalone not good for winter driving and the reflash well lets be honest here is not available to the public yet.
Injectors leave the ebay ones alone yes they will work but for how long and when they stop working correctly and they will what damage are you going to do? $450-$550
The DP at this point I would suggest you upgrade the cat to a high flow but your call.
Plus all the little things i did not touch on like oil feed and return clamps guages (AFR, boost oil press a must) now you are close to $3000-$3500ish and the company has not made a profit yet.

You are lucky you can fab most of this your self most cant and to get a good welder is worth his/her weight in gold.

All I will say on the 5th injector is no comment.

It all comes down to what you get in the kit and how it is made. My kit cost over $6g but there was a lot or R&D and things like 3 different turbos 5 bov to find ones that worked right and 3 high flow cats. We went through them because (at the time) the piggybacks we used would not fuel the car correctly and burned out the cat. Went through 4 different piggies none worked, one was close but the ecu would fight the change in the long run, thus it did not work.

That is just my thoughts and of course it is coming from a company's perspective we have to make something on the kit after all the work we did but i think there is a price break that the market will support and if we cant make a good kit for that then we wont bother doing one....we believe we can....

2006_RA

iTrader: (1)

Speed is/was never cheap, even with Colin Chapman's best intentions.

You will have to spend money, you will have to spend time.
If your budget is $1000, I would just wait till you have saved more.

lanzerralliart

iTrader: (15)

1000 bucks for a good turbo kit haha , you probably won't even be able to find a good turbo and manifold for less than 1000 bucks... if it were that easy and cheap we would all be turbo. if you want a turbo be ready to put down 5k at minimum. if you want a strong turbo kit look towards the 10k range and for a bullet proof turbo kit have 10k++ ready lol ...these aren't hondas you know

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

OttRalliart05 nailed it right there, that was the point i was trying to make. My project is a "can it be done" and "how well will it work" type project, with a retarded budget, and i fully understand the potential that some of the things i have now, or have planned may need to be replaced/re-thought, more money spent, to reach a final product. The turbo is a no brainer, if it works, a 14b is a perfect stand-in for an EVO 3 16g .

If i can get it to work half decent, i'll be pleased with my work. I'm quite competent repairing/working on an engine, but i've never done a turbo build, that is why i'm giving it a shot. When i can afford it, i'll obviously upgrade here and there as time goes on, that's logical progression, and i feel that's the best way for my to fully understand the 4G69 as a turbo engine, and the dynamics of forced induction. Rather than bolting on something i know is going to work.

Don't get me wrong, the R&D kit in Brent's trunk looked awesome, but for my own personal ambitions, i would rather give it a shot myself. If you have the money, definately go for it, these guys know what they're doing. But 1000$ for forced induction is unrealistic, and expect at least half as much R&D as Hackish and OttRalliart05 have put into the retail kit.

Start saving boys.


And yes Brent, all my steel is mild steel. Of course as temporary as possible

markmetivier14

Why would you be a dick about this kind of thing I asked a question on a noon thread get over yourself, and why would you say 10k when there's a turbo kit from RRM for 4 and a little?