CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

You still running the stock torque converter?

truthdweller

iTrader: (1)

Yessir!

2006_RA

iTrader: (1)

Could be that the clutches in the transmission have seen better days. If that's the case, an overhaul kit would address it, but as you are boosted and a track demon, you may want to investigate something more robust than OEM.

truthdweller

iTrader: (1)

I've been sitting on this offer for quite a while now:

"As an estimate:
Labor to remove and replace transmission is $770
Parts and Labor to remove and replace valve body, install differential, including setting bearing preload, reseal case half, change pump seals, filter and axle seals $467
Valve body modification $589
11 quarts synthetic atf $119.79
Total 1945.79

If you would like to do a performance converter, while the transmission is out of the vehicle is a good time to do it so that you wouldn't be paying any additional labor- that is $469."

Garrett blows a gasket when he imagines spending this kind of money, lol, but I'm still considering it.

truthdweller

iTrader: (1)

More on the "valve body modification" mentioned above. The costs mentioned here are included in the quote above:

"We can modify the valve body with will help the shift quality to an extent and improve durability.

It is $589 and it will take me about 2 -3 days. I will also need the
accumulator pistons from under the valve body individually bagged and
packaged with the spring(s) that go under them.

Everything may fall out during removal so please be careful with the pistons
and keeping the correct springs with them and noting their position."

truthdweller

iTrader: (1)

Ok, so I'm "happy with the results this time" BUT (there's always one of those) when I go to install it it doesn't fit. The attachment nipple for the actuator arm, that I modified the same way two other times before, is hitting the engine block still, wth?!!! Well, as history repeats itself, the waste-gate housing is not cast exactly the same as the last one. The boxed shape outline on the right (see photo) happens to be larger than the last, giving it a different dimension, thus moving the wastegate lever further out.

So, this was a solution: extending the lever about a quarter of an inch and moving the nipple to the other side:

truthdweller

iTrader: (1)

Now, this worked. The waste-gate lever clears the engine block with more room than with the prior housings, even with the housing having a larger dimension in that area. The actuator arm attaches and moves freely, providing good tension on the waste-gate.

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

How is the clearance on the exhaust side? It's crafty, I like it.

truthdweller

iTrader: (1)

I tried to get a decent picture of it for you, but couldn't...too tight. The actuator attachment nipple and the actuator arm itself clears the turbine housing by at least a half inch or more...plenty of room.

Back in 2013, when the Profab shop was finishing up robbing me of my money, I recall making this very suggestion of reorienting the nipple to the other side, they weren't receptive to it though...imagine that. The only difference was having to extend it so that it would clear the turbine housing...your very concern Garrett.



Going to pull the control arms off again to hopefully press those Whiteline PU bushings in. Going to mark the concentric washer bolts this time so I don't have to realign...stay tuned!

truthdweller

iTrader: (1)

Haven't been too motivated to get this done, although, I am back with a laptop...$35 for from the Letgo app...local pickup! I'm relearning how to navigate through Fastworks and how to datalog again so I can address this tuning problem I'm having.

truthdweller

iTrader: (1)

Datalogged some runs and I'm maxing out my MAF @ 10-11 psi. Speed density in the near future? Possibly!

bakuro117

iTrader: (5)

Do you not have a 3 bar map sensor in there?

truthdweller

iTrader: (1)

Yes...my question above was meant to be, "tongue in cheek" for Hackish is currently writing speed density patches for my car. I was going to make it a surprise. Although, Hackish says, "I worked on yours a bit today. It will be possible to put the speed density patches in...it's going to be a bit of a PITA to tune."

bakuro117

iTrader: (5)

It shouldnt be bad. We actually recommend everyone who runs a Haltech tune with speed density. You just need IAT and MAP sensors. Most tuners will be able to tune this way.

Just looked back and saw that you said you are maxing out the MAF not MAP. How so? You should have a voltage calibration that lets you correct for that. Im sure Crans had to do the same thing at some point.

truthdweller

iTrader: (1)

True, but Michael (hackish) is up in Ottawa, I'm in New Jersey. Yes, a local tuner would be able to use Fastworks and tune with speed density...I'm already looking into this.

I asked Garrett the same thing and he said he increased the diameter of his MAF, but that it messed with the tune and it was like "starting all over." I asked hackish if there was a way to scale the MAF without messing with the tune too much and his response was, "unfortunately not."

I've Googled the same and read of one tuner who put in a 3/4" ID hose from the MAF airbox to the UICP just before the throttle body. This way, when WOT, some of the air being sucked into the intake pipe, before passing over the MAF sensor, would be diverted into the throttle body instead of over the MAF sensor. The same amount of air is being drawn into the entire system, but not enough to max out the MAF sensor voltage. He datalogged before and after but I'd have to read the article again to tell you the specifics. The bottom line was that it worked!