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04-06 Ralliart Aftermarket Forced Induction Tech (aftermarket turbo/supercharger related topics)

2004 Lancer Sportback Ralliart AT Build

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Old Mar 17, 2017, 04:07 PM   #1996
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Old Mar 17, 2017, 04:15 PM   #1997
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Wonder if you did a pcv valve delete and hooked it up to a catch can, if that would fix your issue
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Old Mar 18, 2017, 11:57 AM   #1998
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Wonder if you did a pcv valve delete and hooked it up to a catch can, if that would fix your issue
Edit: So, eliminate the PCV valve and attach a catch can, and plugging the intake manifold? What's going on though...why am I experiencing this now?

Last edited by truthdweller; Mar 18, 2017 at 12:14 PM.
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Old Mar 18, 2017, 05:48 PM   #1999
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Just coming at this from uninformed left field: the only thing I can think of that would be pressurizing the crankcase like that is blowby past the pistons. Have you checked for that? (pressurize the cylinder with air via the spark plug hole and observe leak down).
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Old Mar 21, 2017, 08:01 AM   #2000
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Does your car have excessive oil consumption? Also does your crankcase/oil smell like gas? I had excessive blowby in my BMW that would push the dipstick out of the hole.
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Old Mar 21, 2017, 08:40 AM   #2001
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Does your car have excessive oil consumption?
No, not as of yet.

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Also does your crankcase/oil smell like gas?
Yes

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I had excessive blowby in my BMW that would push the dipstick out of the hole.
I'm yet to bring it back to get a leak down test.
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Old Mar 24, 2017, 05:37 PM   #2002
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Oil light on at idle now... Significant chatter on cold start up, which subsides when warm. Oil pump vs valves?
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Old Apr 1, 2017, 04:10 PM   #2003
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Oil light on at idle now... Significant chatter on cold start up, which subsides when warm. Oil pump vs valves?
Well, the oil light was associated with the dip stick being out of its tube and creating a vacuum leak. So, i take the car back to "Angel" who did the timing belt, valves, etc., and calls me and says, "Who's been working on your car?!" Apparently, a TB cover bolt was cross threaded when i had the smoke test and TB rechecked, along with the crankshaft sensor and O2 sensor tested, and he notices this. I find myself lying to him just to avoid the tongue lashing, which i shouldn't have felt guilty about in the first place, but i did it anyhow. What a mess...

So, apparently, the TB is loose causing the chatter and the other symptoms are yet to be addressed. He sat on it all week without touching it...nice.

I've been bass fishing and enjoying family get togethers, using the wife's car so Im alright, considering...take that Mitsubishi!

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Old Apr 4, 2017, 04:15 PM   #2004
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Update:

Coolant Temp sensor data checked out fine per shop ( following a lead after getting a response to my YouTube video:

He's wanting to replace valve springs, stating he spoke to a performance shop buddy of his and they are recommending the valve springs be replaced... in that valve float, secondary to week valve springs, may be the cause of my 5-6k rpm power loss...http://www.aa1car.com/library/valve_..._diagnosis.htm

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Old Apr 6, 2017, 07:32 AM   #2005
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I can't imagine it is valve float considering that is well below factory redline. On my old BMW I would get some valve float on a balanced a blueprinted engine, but that was around 7,000 plus RPM.
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Old Apr 7, 2017, 09:40 AM   #2006
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I can't imagine it is valve float considering that is well below factory redline. On my old BMW I would get some valve float on a balanced a blueprinted engine, but that was around 7,000 plus RPM.
"Valve Float

Valve float occurs when the springs can't keep up with the engine's speed. At high RPM (anything above 5000 RPM), the valves are opening and closing very rapidly. The camshaft rotates at half the speed of the crankshaft, so at 5000 RPM, the cam is spinning around at 2500 RPM, and pushing the valves open over 40 times a second! If the valve springs are weak, the springs may not be able to push the valves all the way shut before the next opening cycle begins. If the valves fail to close, the cylinders will lose compression causing the engine to misfire and lose power." - http://www.aa1car.com/library/valve_..._diagnosis.htm
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Old Apr 10, 2017, 09:24 AM   #2007
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Yeah I know what valve float is. How many miles are on your engine? I would just be surprised to see valve float on a modern engine with under 150k miles.
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Old Apr 10, 2017, 09:58 AM   #2008
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Yeah I know what valve float is. How many miles are on your engine? I would just be surprised to see valve float on a modern engine with under 150k miles.
I wasnt questioning whether you knew what valve float was, but rather posted that in response to your, " I can't imagine it is valve float considering that is well below factory redline." This article was associating valve float in general at 5000 to 6000 RPMs which happens to be exactly what I'm experiencing. Although, I keep questioning, why am I experiencing valve float now when I wasn't before the valves we're done? The answer, or the response I got to that, was that when he spoke to the performance shop reference of his they stated that the springs may have been damaged/altered when I snapped the timing belt, " especially with turbocharged vehicles." I asked if the springs preload could be adjusted and he said no.

Here is something else that raises a red flag and that is, when I took the vehicle to have it smoke tested and the timing belt reconfirmed, I was informed that a local machine shop that does head refinishing had a bad reputation for putting out a bad product and ruining engines in the process. Well, when I asked my shop where my head was refinished he stated that very shop. I did not tell him what I was told though. If that is the case, then what symptoms would I be experiencing?

Last edited by truthdweller; Apr 10, 2017 at 10:04 AM.
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Old Apr 10, 2017, 10:00 AM   #2009
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Sorry, my engine just turned 180k.
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Old Apr 10, 2017, 10:24 AM   #2010
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Yeah that is really strange. You almost have to assume something was messed up during the install since it didn't happen before the valves were done. I was just saying it is strange for valve float to just start happening out of nowhere.
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