sflemming12

Hey guys, I've been thinking about turboing for a while now, I thought it'd be time to start collecting some parts, but today after reading the updates on Dirtyralli's build, I have some questions.

First just let me start off with my plans for the car, I'd really like to make the car "how mitsu should have made the Ralliart" and I want to do so by using turbo bits off a stock Evo 9, Evo interior, Evo hood (painted) and Evo wheels, do give it that nice oem look. I'm hoping for around 320 WHP at about 12-16 psi, what do you guys think is the limit for the stock internals? If I do turbo I'd do lots of supporting mods to give the car and good solid reliable feel such as injectors, fuel pump, clutch and LSD. I'm also hoping, since I'll have to do the exhaust and ECU anyway for the turbo, I could get it to spit flames while on 2 step by removing the cat. What do you guys think about that?

So to start off intercooler. I know nobody makes an intercooler for our cars but if there a lot of room? I really want to keep my oem look and fog lights, no cutting like you need to on the RRM Kit. I like what Crans did just I'd like to keep the fog light surrounds lol and idk if it will fit on my car because my 05 number has the black trim going inwards, unlike the 06 witch have a stipe in the middle of the opening. Is this possible? I know it will probably require some intercooler piping fabbed up, that's fine.

Second is the turbo itself. I'm hoping I can use a stock Evo 9 turbo TD05HRA-16G6C-10.5T. I'd like to use the Evo turbo because #1 they are cheap as lost Evo owners just want to get rid of them when they upgrade, #2 it's twin scroll, unlike Evo 1-3 or garret turbos, and #3 I think it's the right size for our engines being factory on an Evo lol. After finding out that an Evo manifold won't work, and that the RRM manifold only has the flange for Evo 1-3 turbos, I was planning on ordering a Megan racing Evo 9 drop in upgrade manifold MR-SSH-MLE03, and then cut off the flange and weld on the 4g69 flange. But after really the update on Dirtyralli's build, I had no idea space was an issue. Is there the same amount of space as the evos? If this manifold and turbo combo is made to work on an Evo do you guys see any possibilities of it not working?

Lastly is ecu. I understand that a reflash is easiest but surly that can't be it for a turbo. Being a NA ECU does it require anything els? Like a boost controller? I know I will need an Evo MAF, but does that just plug straight into the ralliarts harness? And what about a wide band? Would a wide and just be for a gauge to look at whole tunning or would the ECU need that too? I was thinking maybe I'd save up and get a Halltech stand alone, but again I don't know how that works. I'd like to make an adapter plug, instead of rewiring the entire engine and just making a mess of everything. But again I don't know how that works, while looking at the ECU pic outs for the Ralliart vs the Halltech, I see stuff like EGR valve and brake light switch and other stuff, that I don't see on the Halltech so idk how it works. And other then that what would I loose? I know I'd loose cruse control but I lost that when I got my Evo steering wheel anyway.

And other then that what's all required for the turbo? This is my list so far I know I have stuff I don't need like clutch and LSD, but just bare with me I hope I'm not forgetting anything essential.

Turbo
Manifold
Intercooler and custom piping
Custom downpipe and exhaust
HKS SSQV BOV
EVO MAF
ECU
Sti Pink injectors
Fuel pump
Turbo water lines
Turbo oil lines
LSD
Clutch

So that's the plan. I hope it's able to work. I'd be while before I'd actually start working on her, I'm planning to start collecting the parts and start throwing them on the car next April after exams. I have some second thoughts about turboing as well I need the car as a daily and if she runs fine now why not just leave it instead of creating a money pit. That's why I want to do stuff like clutch so it dosnt leave me stranded when I need it most I need it to be reliable, that's why I want to use factory parts and make it feel factory, what do you guys think?

Anyways that's all for now, thanks guys for all your help

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

12-16 psi in getting into dangerous territory...I recently blew up my stock motor at 18psi on 94 octane and alcohol/water injection. could have been my injectors, but I wasn't datalogging at the time, and my wideband had just quit working, so it's actually kind of a mystery, but the end result is no mystery ...250whp is safe and attainable with a stock block. 8-12 psi will get you there, depending on the turbo. If you can afford the cost and time to blow up an engine, by all means, go big. But it would be wiser to build a block, if you're chasing 320hp.

The fab work on your intercooler piping would be more complex, but if you used stock evo stuff, it might actually work better...can't say it will save the fog lights, but the stock evo intercooler inlet and outlet face downward on an angle, and that's probably for a reason. pretty sure those fit, cause I've seen guys use the stock evo intercooler and piping on 02-03 lancers.


Space is not something we have a surplus of, the Evo does have a little bit more than us, even with a DOHC head. If you can get that turbo to fit, it will work just fine on a 2.4L, but I think something in that size but a tad more flow would be needed to go beyond 300hp with lots of top end. I could be wrong, but I don't think they flow that much more than the older 16gs, it's my understanding that the twin scroll design was to reduce lag.

To run boost with the stock ECU, you don't need an Evo MAF, you need a 3 bar MAP sensor, which is used i think on the Evo X, but don't quote me...aftermarket MAP sensors aren't that expensive. Wideband oxygen sensors don't get wired to the ECU, as it's not required for closed loop opertaion, it's for visual and datalogging purposes only, but is essential for proper tuning. Boost is controlled mechanically by the wastegate...there is currently no way that i'm aware of to control boost electronically via modded NA ecu. Halltech's are for race cars, you don't need it. Stock ECU can be patched to have maps to modify and control fuelling and ignition timing based on boost pressure, and engine load.

You definitetly need a clutch...a stock clutch will slip once you go north of probably 210whp, or there abouts. If it holds the torque initially, it's only a matter of time before it won't. stage 1 clutches start at around $500 in Canada, last time I looked.

like i said before you don't need a MAF, you need a MAP. Also JDM STI pink injectors are like unicorns...USDM 06-09 WRX injectors are much easier to get a hold of, and have basically the same flow rate, probably cost less too.

i think you need to search more. look at what the 02-03 guys are doing as well, mind you they got it easy...EVO roms flash to their ECU's, and the turbo manfolds pretty much fit, with a little tinkering.

bakuro117

iTrader: (5)

Garrett pretty much covered all the bases for you. And if you honestly want to make the RA what the it "should have been" then you should make it easy on yourself and stick with OEM evo parts as much as possible. You'll be able to get well into 200hp but like he said 300 will be a stretch. Stock Evos only made 270hp. So if the RA was going to be turbo'd they wouldnt have made it have more power than the Evo anyway.

Your looking at using the same turbo that I was. And with that 10.5 hotside I ran into all sorts of space issues. I'd recommend getting a pusher fan for the front of the Radiator/Condenser. That should give you just enough wiggle room, and let you keep the stock radiator.

Your manifold choice is also exactly what I was going to do as well. Actually Garrett has the parts for that now I believe. But I cut off the Evo flange, bought a 4g69 flange, and had to bend the pipes on the manfold inward a bit because the Evo's ports are wider than the RA's. It looked like it wouldve worked out great if space hadnt been an issue.

For your intercooler pipes Stock evo pipes fit and bolt up. I mocked them up on my car. However I didnt have a crashbar on my RA at the time. I had the Cusco brace instead so the evo intercooler will probably have issues with the stock crashbar, you may have to cut it up a bit to make it fit.

So lets go over this list:
Turbo - Evo 9
Manifold - Megan/Flange hybrid
Intercooler and Piping - Evo 8 or 9
BOV - Evo 8 or 9 (save yourself some money and it will attach directly to the evo piping)
MAP* - not maf get the Omnipower 3 bar it plugs right in.
ECU - Tune with Ottralliart or Hackish either way is proven to work
Injectors - Subaru injectors, follow garrett's advice.
Fuel Pump - Walboro 255
Water Lines - Evo hardlines, but you'll have to fab up a connection to the coolant system.
Oil lines - Pressure can be supplied from the back of the block, you can get kits to make a drain
LSD - good idea go with whatever you'll be happy with.
Clutch - also a good idea

Other things I would add:
EGR Block Off Plate - you can get these all over, any one for an evo will fit.
Custom Intake pipe - will need to accommodate the RA MAF, and a recirc for the BOV.
Head Studs - kit for the Evo from ARP will work. you'll need that if you go over 10psi
Manual boost controller - all kinds pick you favorite.
Wideband - Pick your favorite. Get it put in the exhaust.
Downpipe - If you use the evo O2 housing, you'll need something made to connect it to your exhaust.
Boost Gauge - self explanitory
Misc. Gauges - Decide what you want yourself. Oil temp, and oil pressure are never a bad idea.

Other than that, I would make sure your car is fully caught up on maintenance first. Otherwise your just asking for headaches. Boosting is a big undertaking. It takes a lot of time and money. Make sure you read up on everything you can find. And see what other people have had to do AFTER they boosted their cars. Because that is where a lot of knowledge is hidden. Ya know the whole hindsight is 20/20 thing? I can tell youve already done quite a bit of reading. But there is always more to learn. Dont be afraid to ask questions. And dont rush getting your parts. Take your time and make sure you know what your getting, and that your getting it for a fair price.

Best of luck!