This is what I am planning to use http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NOS-1...spagenameZWD1V

once I finish the cyl head (to stay on topic hehe) I am prepping it to resist that kind of power for drag racing and a good shot for daily driving

 

lol, your absolutely crazy. Going all out!

It's going to sound like a crazy mivec roaring down the street.
VTEC, you aint got nothing on this man!

Imagine that, vtec roarrrrrrr...... mivec ROARRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRROFL

 

I am gonna put a sticker on the rear bumper that says :

MIVEC GOT TORQUE SUCKERSZ!!!!! enjoy

 

Mines going to be:

Mivec, thats french for see you the f*@# later

 

Hehehe LOL ....

or perhaps

Mivec>BIG BANG>TURBO>Ralliart the creation of the universe

 

migue! Good work on some custom tuning You'll have to keep me update on how things are coming. couple of recomendations: while you have the cylinder head off you might wanna look into milling it down. 9.5:1 compression=weak. Also look into doing intake manifold tuning to match cam work. I've recently discovered grapeaperacing.com and they got pretty cool stuff on wave length tuning. Let me know more about combustion chamber conturing, I'd be kinda nervous doin that (mainly cuz I know nothing about it).

 

The cylinder head won't be milled this is the reason why we shouldn;t
The most you can mill our head is .040" now you need to take into consideration that once you remove material from the head the timing belt will loose a few degrees in timing because of shorter distance. The thing is you can gain up to .5 compression by milling the head but in the end is not worth it cause you will spend maybe a 100 $ by milling it then you gotta buy a Vernier Camshaft gear from rpw so that you can restore your timing again and that will cost you again 150 more or less ....that's a 250 price and you have done some serious damage to the stock cylinder head, now what I will do is contour the combustion chambers cause our heads have cast material which is left from the factory , when you contour the comb. chamber you remove that material and polish it so that minimal carbon buildup will occur and that means more power and more MPG . To raise compression I will send a combustion chamber molding and one of my pistons to get them done with a 10.4 compression cause I am planning on going turbo later on and once I touch the camshaft the higher compression will help me restore the low end torque loss. You will see more about all these mods in this thread once I am done with the cyl head . Tuesday will be a long long day hehehe

 

with my mechanic we have a book that talks about the engine don't remember but it's a formula taken from NOS book...it's kind of generic but u know it gives u an idea...

 

Sounds cool man , once I finish the Killer cyl head hehe I will start with some other more advance mods

 

wow, dude good luck with everything . sounds like you really know your s*** though. I was actually going to look into milling the head for myself later this summer but now I won't! keep us posted

 

UPDATE !!!!
SEALS ARRIVED TODAY hehehehe !!!
here are the pics these are the VITON HIgh Quality seals




Waiting till tuesday to get the cyl head and take pics before disassembling of the intake exhaust ports and the valve pockets ...... Also the BRONZE valve guides will arrive this Tuesday too...

 

hey migue, how much is just the head going to run you? i might have to save up and send one to this shop you found b/c everyone up here want at least 700 for the basic port and polish.

 

That's uninstall and reinstall with the P&P labor right? I would imagine just about anyone would charge out the *** for a job this involved. The only way to get a job like this cheaper is to pull the head and do all the rebuild work yourself and just pay someone the labor for the P&P. If you buy a new head it would be for convenience because between that and all the parts involved you would be better off letting someone else do it.

 

Ok I think it's time I make a list of prices :

The cyl head price (used with good valves and camshaft) = 250.00 shipped
The valve seals (Viton High Quality)= 22.00 shipped
The Bronze valve guides(a must!! for turbo and NOS)= 128 shipped
The FULL porting and POLISH once I disassemble the head (remove th evalves and stuff) = 200.00 locally
The regrinding of the cam to my specs = 150.00 locally
Valves, Combustion Chambers and Exhaust ports coated in HIGH TEMP REFLECTIVE coating (this will improve combustion efficiency and also speed up gas velocity in the exhaust stroke = 80.00
Machine job for the cl head (assembling it again with a race valve job) = 200.00

And as an ending I will be sending the whole cyl head assembly to do a full cryogenic cycle and relieve all residual stresses , if you don't know what this is search it in google , it's like forging , it improves the material properties. They put the cyl head in a chamber and cool it down to -300 F for a period of 24 hr this will cost an additional= 100.00

Basic math gives us a TOTAL of 1130.00 that's the above work you will end up with a racing CYL head, a spare cyl head and a CAMSHAFT

PS If you buy from RRM it is going to be 1199 for the head and you will have to send yours + 599 for the camshaft that's a total of $1798 and I don't think RRM does cryogenics to the head and neither use Bronze valve guides and definitively they don't use ceramic coatings so for 1130.00 you get more and a spare cyl head ..... PR serving others again hehehe LOl

 

Update!! bronze valve guides arrived today but I wasn't home so I will check out if I can get em today so that I can take pics and post em here....