nerdbotSKRA

iTrader: (4)

At 84 000km/52000mi, which one of these do you think is most likely to rear it's ugly head first when making themselves noticeable, knowing the nature of our transmissions:

- a shot TOB
- input shaft rattle
- clutch chatter

Anyone?

When I fire my car up I hear this chattering/rattling noise coming from the clutch or the tranny, before I thought I had a heat shield problem. Well, all the heat shields are gone and I'm still hearing this less than desirable noise.

Recently it's moved into being audible while driving, but not while downshifting. The stock clutch/flywheel (or other...sssh...) are making my ride sound like a POS on start up and during acceleration. It's become more prominent since I've been having to keep my rev's down (a.k.a driving slower) to accompany my stock muffler being bombarded by the header/dp/IM so shifting low and driving slower may have been having some negative effects on the tranny, however I'm nowhere near "dead-lining" it.

Noise kinda sounds like a marble in a blender. Sporadic, not constant, but there, occasionally sounds like metal on metal contact if noticed at the right rpm range. Not affected by whether or not the clutch pedal is fully depressed. On start up sometimes it sounds like there's some friction (as in something rubbing together or becoming un-bound) on start up, sounds like air rushing away (I know some, maybe most, trannys have vents but this is certainly not it)

Ugh, I'm scared lol. Last time I guessed something wrong with a tranny I was 100% correct.. my TOB already chirps like a cricket on steroids as well..

I can get a vid up quickly so you can hear it and maybe gauge the sound. I'd appreciate any input because I'm afraid this sound is actually a fore-warning of bad things (that I cannot afford) to come.

WW-GSR

iTrader: (47)

When you start the car, does this sound while in idle go away if you put the clutch in? What about letting your foot off the gas on the freeway? Do you hear a horrendous rattle while decelerating in gear like that?

nerdbotSKRA

iTrader: (4)

Neither having the clutch in/out appear to make much of a difference actually, the noise itself seems to be more consistent while driving when compared to idling, but not in the higher rpm range (either cause whatever is causing the vibration syncs itself, or is drowned out, not sure). It's not heard immediately when I let off the gas, but once a down shift makes it's way in to the lower revs (as if coming to a stop for ex.) then it's definitely noticeable.

Vid of start-up(s) will be up soon. I would have done some revving as well but it's late lol.

edit - vimeo's got me in a half hour wait before flash conversion, here's the link until that time anyway as to not forget to post it later:

http://vimeo.com/25016896

nerdbotSKRA

iTrader: (4)

This is going to sound extremely stupid, but the noise went away all on it's own again..



I've been babying it for a few weeks now keeping the revs down etc, decided to let'er rip in first and second gear on the main way near by, when I got home a minute later I gave it a listen/inspection and everything checks out..

Still, if anyone has any input, it would be greatly appreciated so I might know what it is I'm listening to whenever that SOB comes back.

Unless it's just better to cross fingers and hope for the best

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

I hear noisy pump/bearings intitially is what it sounds like...The chatter i'm not sure what that could be, rev it while pressing the clutch, that should give a good indication.

veloracer

iTrader: (1)

Well, here is my issue which sounds incredibly like what you originally described in your original post. I started having this issue at about 92k miles, I am at 105k miles now. Pretty much at idle I can hear what is a bearing that is worn, most likely my carrier bearing on the input shaft. Upon acceleration, it clatters pretty good but shifts fine. I suspect the bearing worn enough that the input shaft is moving slightly and clattering against the syncro gears. It does sound like marbles or rocks or metal clattering. Very similar to yours. Key point is that noises like that typically don't go away, they just hide but eventually will come back

From the assessment my buddy gave me who works on DSM transmissions and EVO transmissions, the F5M42 transmission is a pretty crappy design and is prone to failure.

He can rebuild my transmission but I have to pull it. Looking at the alldatadiy.com specs, it looks like a ton of extra work. Is it really that hard to pull it? Didn't seem like it to me when I looked under the car and examined the layout.

nerdbotSKRA

iTrader: (4)

I've heard references the the tranny as being a "ticking" time bomb (that pun SHOULD be funny), just wasn't expecting something so soon.. I'm thinking it's related to the the TOB/release bearing as well, granted it chirps like mad enough as it is. Shifts are fine, engagement is a little choppy, still catches smooth.

But the noise.. eventually it's just going to return and stay permanent

I'm not too sure how hard it is to pull the tranny but my local stealership quoted me something like $1600+ for a clutch job, majority of that being being labor (*bites fingernails*) so I really don't want to begin thinking about transmission overhauls lol

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

the transmission is not that bad first of all, it's a very simple design, and easy to maintain. it's not hard to take out either. It was designed to handle the power the engine makes under normal driving conditions, hence the warranty. 160,000km in canada.

worn bearings and "prone to failure" are not the same thing, if you drive it hard and don't replace the worn bearings obviously it will fail, not because it was prone to do so, but because it was not maintained.

nerdbotSKRA

iTrader: (4)

Well, I don't drag it to hell and back if that's what you're implying haha. It goes for a scoot every once in awhile, took it to auto-x three times last summer. Everything else is DD, and I keep it as maintained as the wallet will allow. When the exhaust goes on I'm taking it right over to the shop and getting some professional hands on it for once for a check up (mainly concerned about a suspension noise that I can't confirm as a CV or a bad wheel bearing)

However I don't have any warranty left on mine, not in that VIN range. Bought it with 54k, warranty expired when I hit 60k. Supposedly there was some kind of a mid 04-05 period where that awesome 160k warranty was introduced (this is what makes me worry a little bit more cause there's nothing cover my a** on this one except shop work warranties)

veloracer

iTrader: (1)

The design is not like that of using keys to hold the syncros, it's a coiled spring which is a design that is not used much.

Worn bearings is a failure point since bearings should not wear abnormally. I've owned my car since new and have maintained it very well. No drag racing, no autox only DD. I put on 70 miles a day during the week. No outrageous mods. I own a 73 Beetle that is stout and have had the stock 4-speed gear box in that car for nearly all it's life until 3 years ago. Mind you my VW had an original HP output of 40. My engine nearly puts out 4 times as much as well as torque, I used the factory gearbox from 1973 up until 3 years ago when I had it regeared, rebuilt and modified to handle over 200hp.

Never a failure even after dragging that car for 2 full seasons as well as driving it like I stole it every time I get in it It is a beast, most people don't know what it feels like to be in a souped up bug, it is pretty violent. Car weighs next to nothing, has absolute power and pulls like an effin freight train. I love that car.

I'm just saying that the design has some issues relative to failure due to weak points, one being the coil spring, the other being the reverse idler.

Although, you have pulled and updated the gearbox, so I would guess you have had first had experience with the gear box and it's design.

As far as taking it out -- do you have to pull the left front wheel assembly apart totally or can you massage it out?

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

once you get everything disconnected, mounts, sensors, shift cable ends, slave cylinder etc., you need to pull both cv shafts, do do that you have to pull both wheels off, lower strut bolts, and disconnect the tie rod ends, then the big axle nuts (1 1/4) and the passenger axle is bolted to the block, and you need to remove the oil filter to pull it out, both can be removed from the hub before you pull them from the diff. lower ball joints can be left alone. after you unbolt it from the block you pull it off slightly rotate it forward, and pull it off completely and it will drop right out if you let the engine tilt downward toward the driver side, this can be done by hand, if you can bench over 100lbs i would guess it weighs about 80 or 90.

gotta go back to work, but you are correct the tranny is not the best but it is not too bad, if you take care of it.