2004 Ralliart Tranny in a 2005 Ralliart
Dec 18, 2011, 10:31 AM
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: alberta
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2004 Ralliart Tranny in a 2005 Ralliart
The syncros in my transmission are getting worn and theres a guy on kijiji selling his 2004 Ralliart transmission for cheap cuz his engine blew. I have a 2005 Ralliart and I was wondering if this transmission would work on it? Probably a dumb question but let me know thx.
Dec 18, 2011, 11:23 AM
#3
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: alberta
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Whenever it's cold out I can barely shift gears or get in to them sometimes I have to rev up the engine for it to go into reverse or first. The gears grind and feel loose. When it warms up if I shift too fast the gears grind.
Dec 18, 2011, 11:28 AM
#4
that's pretty normal, when it's cold your gear oil is extremely viscous, and the synchros don't align quick enough, and i rebuilt my transmission like 15,000km ago, and i put in a brand new ACT stage 1 clutch at the same time, and if i shift too fast anywhere over 4k RPM it grinds...
when was the last time you replaced your gear oil? and what kind of oil did you use?
I wouldn't hurt to have a spare gearbox, i would love one myself, but it doesn't seem to me that you're having any real transmission problems..
when was the last time you replaced your gear oil? and what kind of oil did you use?
I wouldn't hurt to have a spare gearbox, i would love one myself, but it doesn't seem to me that you're having any real transmission problems..
Last edited by CrAnSwIcK; Dec 18, 2011 at 11:31 AM.
Dec 18, 2011, 11:35 AM
#5
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: alberta
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
that's pretty normal, when it's cold your gear oil is extremely viscous, and the synchros don't align quick enough, and i rebuilt my transmission like 15,000km ago, and i put in a brand new ACT stage 1 clutch at the same time, and if i shift too fast anywhere over 4k RPM it grinds...
when was the last time you replaced your gear oil? and what kind of oil did you use?
I wouldn't hurt to have a spare gearbox, i would love one myself, but it doesn't seem to me that you're having any real transmission problems..
when was the last time you replaced your gear oil? and what kind of oil did you use?
I wouldn't hurt to have a spare gearbox, i would love one myself, but it doesn't seem to me that you're having any real transmission problems..
Dec 18, 2011, 12:14 PM
#6
start by draining the old gear oil, replace with pennzoil (GM) synchromesh, BG synchroshift, or AMSoil synthetic gear oil...drive it for about a week, and see how it goes...
In my experience, Mitsubishi gearboxes don't shift well at high RPM if you're hammering on it. If your synchros were gone, you would have difficulty getting into gear at any RPM, regardless of how long you've had your foot on the clutch. You should allow a short delay before pushing the gear in, when you're hard on the throttle...
Yes, mine will grind if i shift too fast...it's not a race car...
In my experience, Mitsubishi gearboxes don't shift well at high RPM if you're hammering on it. If your synchros were gone, you would have difficulty getting into gear at any RPM, regardless of how long you've had your foot on the clutch. You should allow a short delay before pushing the gear in, when you're hard on the throttle...
Yes, mine will grind if i shift too fast...it's not a race car...
Trending Topics
Jan 14, 2012, 10:42 PM
#8
Newbie
Join Date: May 2011
Location: rocky
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I got the used engine and transmission.
Today I got that blown engine with the tranny supposely in still running condition. I took it all apart and I have a few questions. Don't worry i'm getting a shop to do all the tranny work.
Is the tranny supposed to be all covered in black stuff when you take it off from the engine? Here's a pic : http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/210/img0272p.jpg/ I wiped it off on the bottom it's really thick.
Also, I took the clutch off and noticed a few things.. Why are the flywheel bolt tops all chewed up? Here's another pic: http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/443/img0268ae.jpg/ Here's a close up: http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/833/img0267n.jpg/
One last questions is how do I tell if the clutch is really worn or still good? I have some pics also let me know what you think: http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/38/img0280pd.jpg/ ,
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/338/img0279vs.jpg/ ,
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/254/img0278h.jpg/,
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/845/img0276ox.jpg/
Let me know what you think thanks. And also I did change my tranny oil I put BG Syncroshift II in it and it still grinds in third gear and it's getting worse now it's pretty much any rpm third gear grinds.
Is the tranny supposed to be all covered in black stuff when you take it off from the engine? Here's a pic : http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/210/img0272p.jpg/ I wiped it off on the bottom it's really thick.
Also, I took the clutch off and noticed a few things.. Why are the flywheel bolt tops all chewed up? Here's another pic: http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/443/img0268ae.jpg/ Here's a close up: http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/833/img0267n.jpg/
One last questions is how do I tell if the clutch is really worn or still good? I have some pics also let me know what you think: http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/38/img0280pd.jpg/ ,
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/338/img0279vs.jpg/ ,
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/254/img0278h.jpg/,
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/845/img0276ox.jpg/
Let me know what you think thanks. And also I did change my tranny oil I put BG Syncroshift II in it and it still grinds in third gear and it's getting worse now it's pretty much any rpm third gear grinds.
Jan 15, 2012, 08:15 AM
#9
All that black **** in the first picture is clutch dust...that's just all the fricstion material that used to be on the clutch disc, lol...pretty normal if the clutch has been in there for a while...does it slip at all?
not sure why those bolts are chewed, is there damage on the engine block? what does the clutch side of the flywheel look like? Maybe someone tried to take it off?
clutch is worn when it begins to slip, or it's worn down to the rivets, looks like you still have some material there, but since it's out, you might as well replace the clutch and release bearing...otherwise you'll be pulling the transmission again very soon for a clutch job...
how long did you drive with the new gear oil?? depending on how much you drive, i would give it a few weeks...
not sure why those bolts are chewed, is there damage on the engine block? what does the clutch side of the flywheel look like? Maybe someone tried to take it off?
clutch is worn when it begins to slip, or it's worn down to the rivets, looks like you still have some material there, but since it's out, you might as well replace the clutch and release bearing...otherwise you'll be pulling the transmission again very soon for a clutch job...
how long did you drive with the new gear oil?? depending on how much you drive, i would give it a few weeks...
Jan 15, 2012, 09:51 AM
#10
Newbie
Join Date: May 2011
Location: rocky
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
All that black **** in the first picture is clutch dust...that's just all the fricstion material that used to be on the clutch disc, lol...pretty normal if the clutch has been in there for a while...does it slip at all?
not sure why those bolts are chewed, is there damage on the engine block? what does the clutch side of the flywheel look like? Maybe someone tried to take it off?
clutch is worn when it begins to slip, or it's worn down to the rivets, looks like you still have some material there, but since it's out, you might as well replace the clutch and release bearing...otherwise you'll be pulling the transmission again very soon for a clutch job...
how long did you drive with the new gear oil?? depending on how much you drive, i would give it a few weeks...
not sure why those bolts are chewed, is there damage on the engine block? what does the clutch side of the flywheel look like? Maybe someone tried to take it off?
clutch is worn when it begins to slip, or it's worn down to the rivets, looks like you still have some material there, but since it's out, you might as well replace the clutch and release bearing...otherwise you'll be pulling the transmission again very soon for a clutch job...
how long did you drive with the new gear oil?? depending on how much you drive, i would give it a few weeks...
Jan 15, 2012, 03:09 PM
#12
Newbie
Join Date: May 2011
Location: rocky
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
thx man and I changed my tranny oil about 2 weeks ago. Lol only 12 point set I could find was a no name one and I got to the 2nd last bolt and the socket broke it cracked right in half lol. Also on that used tranny the cv joint and axle looks in really rough shape how hard would it be to swap mine into that tranny or should I just take the gears out of the used tranny and put it in mine or whatever is worn swap them if you know what I mean?
Jan 15, 2012, 05:24 PM
#13
if the guts of the used tranny are good, just use it, unless the transmission case id cracked...to take your transmission out you would have to take the axels out...they just sit it there, there's nothing hold them in...one side has some what of a snap ring, but they just sit in the differential...if the spare axels are ****ed, don't use them if yours are good, use them...just make sure the differential oil seals are in good condition, if in doubt, replace them, as it's a pain in the **** to take the axels out in the first place to do the transmission swap.
About the tools, most tool suppliers like fastenal, sears, and most autoparts stores and have odd tools like metric 12 point, etc. and usually offer some kind of warranty...I get most of my tools at my local canadian tire, cause they accept returns and replacement of broken tools, no questions asked, because their mastercraft brand has a lifetime warranty. If canadian tire doesn't have what i need, fastenal or acklands grainger usually carries, or can order it...they're great for replacement hardware too...so you don't have to pay $6 for a mitsubishi OEM transmission bolt... metric grade 10.9 fasteners are fine, but you should check the specs for torque values, because they vary base on the fastener, not the hole it goes in.
I don't know what kind of suppliers there are in the US, but i'm sure the places are there...
About the tools, most tool suppliers like fastenal, sears, and most autoparts stores and have odd tools like metric 12 point, etc. and usually offer some kind of warranty...I get most of my tools at my local canadian tire, cause they accept returns and replacement of broken tools, no questions asked, because their mastercraft brand has a lifetime warranty. If canadian tire doesn't have what i need, fastenal or acklands grainger usually carries, or can order it...they're great for replacement hardware too...so you don't have to pay $6 for a mitsubishi OEM transmission bolt... metric grade 10.9 fasteners are fine, but you should check the specs for torque values, because they vary base on the fastener, not the hole it goes in.
I don't know what kind of suppliers there are in the US, but i'm sure the places are there...
Last edited by CrAnSwIcK; Jan 15, 2012 at 05:27 PM.
Jan 15, 2012, 08:17 PM
#14
Newbie
Join Date: May 2011
Location: rocky
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
if the guts of the used tranny are good, just use it, unless the transmission case id cracked...to take your transmission out you would have to take the axels out...they just sit it there, there's nothing hold them in...one side has some what of a snap ring, but they just sit in the differential...if the spare axels are ****ed, don't use them if yours are good, use them...just make sure the differential oil seals are in good condition, if in doubt, replace them, as it's a pain in the **** to take the axels out in the first place to do the transmission swap.
About the tools, most tool suppliers like fastenal, sears, and most autoparts stores and have odd tools like metric 12 point, etc. and usually offer some kind of warranty...I get most of my tools at my local canadian tire, cause they accept returns and replacement of broken tools, no questions asked, because their mastercraft brand has a lifetime warranty. If canadian tire doesn't have what i need, fastenal or acklands grainger usually carries, or can order it...they're great for replacement hardware too...so you don't have to pay $6 for a mitsubishi OEM transmission bolt... metric grade 10.9 fasteners are fine, but you should check the specs for torque values, because they vary base on the fastener, not the hole it goes in.
I don't know what kind of suppliers there are in the US, but i'm sure the places are there...
About the tools, most tool suppliers like fastenal, sears, and most autoparts stores and have odd tools like metric 12 point, etc. and usually offer some kind of warranty...I get most of my tools at my local canadian tire, cause they accept returns and replacement of broken tools, no questions asked, because their mastercraft brand has a lifetime warranty. If canadian tire doesn't have what i need, fastenal or acklands grainger usually carries, or can order it...they're great for replacement hardware too...so you don't have to pay $6 for a mitsubishi OEM transmission bolt... metric grade 10.9 fasteners are fine, but you should check the specs for torque values, because they vary base on the fastener, not the hole it goes in.
I don't know what kind of suppliers there are in the US, but i'm sure the places are there...
Jan 15, 2012, 10:11 PM
#15
oh yeah, forgot to ask, since you don't have a manual i'm assuming you don't know the head bolt removal sequence, it is very important to avoid damage to the head, i.e. warping, i hope you used some kind of cross pattern during removal...why is the head coming off anyways?
check your PM's
check your PM's