View Poll Results: Should I replace the Clutch Master Cylinder
Yes, with stock Ralliart aftermarket



0
0%
No, try something else (please post below)



0
0%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 12. You may not vote on this poll
Clutch Master Cylinder on it's way out?
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 412
Likes: 0
From: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 412
Likes: 0
From: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Things aren't breaking from racing. I haven't raced much on the new clutch even, I think it's just a defective clutch. I should have gone with OEM but I heard clutchmasters was pretty good. It would have been cheaper and most likely problem free just to go with the OEM Clutch, and I kind of wish I did.
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 412
Likes: 0
From: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
update, pulled everything out in 2 hours, took the clutch out. the disc has broken parts on it. so far spent 2 hours trying to get the tranny back in. had to walk away from it
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 412
Likes: 0
From: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Ok, this is what happened:
11:00 AM, started working on the car
1:00 PM, transmission is off and clutch is out and inspecting it (results below)
1:30 PM, put the "new" clutch in and start putting it together
4:00 PM, It's been 2.5 hours struggling and I can't get the freaking transmission back in...
(walked away from it for an hour)
5:00 PM, Started again
5:30 PM, Finally got the transmission in
9:00 PM, everything back in and fluid filled and wheels torqued
(showered)
10:00 PM, test drive
anyways, when I pulled the clutch out at first, everything looked fine. I had no clue what was going on... all the springs were in place everything looked fine besides some hot spots on the pressure plate. and then I shook the pressure plate....
A small black piece fell out. At first I thought it was a clump of clutch dust, but it was pretty hard and had a specific shape to it.
I shook the pressure plate more and 2 more pieces came out for a total of 3, all looking exactly the same. I looked at the pressure plate and tried to find where they broke off from.
I then looked at the clutch disc, everything looked fine, until I looked at the spring hub, and compared it to one of my old clutches.
Pressure Plate

Clutch Disc

Three black pieces that fell out of the pressure plate

Hot spots on the pressure plate

This is where the pieces came from

If you notice, there are only 3 pieces, but 4 spots. I assume the last one got wedged somewhere and worn down, or is still jammed somewhere
11:00 AM, started working on the car
1:00 PM, transmission is off and clutch is out and inspecting it (results below)
1:30 PM, put the "new" clutch in and start putting it together
4:00 PM, It's been 2.5 hours struggling and I can't get the freaking transmission back in...
(walked away from it for an hour)
5:00 PM, Started again
5:30 PM, Finally got the transmission in
9:00 PM, everything back in and fluid filled and wheels torqued
(showered)
10:00 PM, test drive
anyways, when I pulled the clutch out at first, everything looked fine. I had no clue what was going on... all the springs were in place everything looked fine besides some hot spots on the pressure plate. and then I shook the pressure plate....
A small black piece fell out. At first I thought it was a clump of clutch dust, but it was pretty hard and had a specific shape to it.
I shook the pressure plate more and 2 more pieces came out for a total of 3, all looking exactly the same. I looked at the pressure plate and tried to find where they broke off from.
I then looked at the clutch disc, everything looked fine, until I looked at the spring hub, and compared it to one of my old clutches.
Pressure Plate

Clutch Disc

Three black pieces that fell out of the pressure plate

Hot spots on the pressure plate

This is where the pieces came from

If you notice, there are only 3 pieces, but 4 spots. I assume the last one got wedged somewhere and worn down, or is still jammed somewhere
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 412
Likes: 0
From: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Compare it to one of my old clutches, all 4 are still in place:

and now pictures of each of the slots:




If you notice, things within the hub are no longer lining up. So I guess I was right that something broke loose in the clutch and was wedging things up. I guess those 4 loose peices wedged themselves in the pressure plate so I couldn't disengage it all the way.
I didn't machine the flywheel, because I didn't have time to, but I put in the clutch that came with the motor I bought when I blew my old one (it's OEM, has the OEM mitsu numbers and everything)
Pedal feel is slightly the same if not softer, but engagement point is very high up on the clutch pedal release. Also clutch slips very easily if you press lightly on the pedal, but I think I should give it some time to bed-in/break-in/clean off the rust that was on the pressure plate.
If this fails, I'm going to buy everything OEM on the clutch, including flywheel, fork, clutch, slave, pipes, orfice, hoses, master

and now pictures of each of the slots:




If you notice, things within the hub are no longer lining up. So I guess I was right that something broke loose in the clutch and was wedging things up. I guess those 4 loose peices wedged themselves in the pressure plate so I couldn't disengage it all the way.
I didn't machine the flywheel, because I didn't have time to, but I put in the clutch that came with the motor I bought when I blew my old one (it's OEM, has the OEM mitsu numbers and everything)
Pedal feel is slightly the same if not softer, but engagement point is very high up on the clutch pedal release. Also clutch slips very easily if you press lightly on the pedal, but I think I should give it some time to bed-in/break-in/clean off the rust that was on the pressure plate.
If this fails, I'm going to buy everything OEM on the clutch, including flywheel, fork, clutch, slave, pipes, orfice, hoses, master
Last edited by Canada_Comp; Jul 14, 2012 at 10:12 PM.
Thank you very much for taking pics and sharing even when the situation is so darn frustrating. Please keep us abreast of your further adventures, its fascinating, and you are a very good technical writer.
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 412
Likes: 0
From: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada

everything good so far. remember though that the failure was random, so I will have to keep watch from now forward. I will post if anything changes
well i would say that if your slave cylinder was pushing against those little bricks instead of PP springs, that would likely cause it, or the master to fail at some point, prematurely...
Very nice write up nice pictures love it! Sometimes all it takes is a few moments away and when you come back boom everything falls into place.. So it was a clutch masters kit or just pp cause the disc says exedy.. How long did you have the clutch in for?
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 412
Likes: 0
From: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
ClutchMasters kit. Exedy/Daikin actually make a lot of clutches for various companies. (if you look closely: both the Mitsubishi OEM clutch, and the ClutchMasters clutch both have the same markings "Exedy" and "DK". the only difference between the two is that Mitsubishi OEM has the
logo, and Mitsu part number, while the ClutchMasters says "T/M Side"; both have their other number I can only assume is a specification or serial number)As far as I know, the way it works is that the companies gives the specifications to Exedy/Daikin (whether it be really cheap and cruddy materials[springs, friction, etc.], or high end carbon friction material), and Exedy/Daikin puts it all together. So in this case, ClutchMasters gives the specs to Exedy/Daikin, they manufacture it for them, then send it to ClutchMasters for packaging/delivery.
Same with my friend's Zero-Sports clutch, Zero-Sports spec, Exedy/Daikin manufactured (for those who can read japanese: http://www.zerosports.co.jp/shop/Pma...385_index.html)
Also same with the OEM Mitsubishi clutches, Mitsubishi Specs, Exedy/Daikin manufactures.
I've heard stories about the Exedy/Daikin OEM replacement (made and designed by Exedy/Daikin themselves for an OEM replacement [bolded for clarity, hope it makes sense]) actually being of lower quality than the actual OEM clutch (honda OEM, mitsubishi OEM, etc.). So from now on the only clutch I would get for an OEM replacement is the factory OEM one from the dealership.
Good question though
Anyone want to chime in on what their ACT disc says?
On a side note, I bet clutch companies make a good profit. Probably doesn't cost too much to manufacture a clutch, but they can mark it up tons because of certain materials/features in the product.
As for how long I had it in, I swapped out the engine and clutch at 183xxx km, and now I'm at 209xxx km, so 26000 km... not a lot
good thing I wasn't paying for a shop to do this.













