ixopnoydjoci

Basically, I was an idiot and went through what i thought was a not too deep area of water, and well, I locked the engine... I was stupid and thought, hey that eclipse just made it through... If i follow its line i can do it to... And well I didnt...

The water was 1/2 way up the doors and inside the car it made its way just a little above where our trunk/gas release buttons are. I could still read the buttons.

Anyway, Insurance is checking on it tomorrow but my questions are the following:

1) The engine clicks but doesnt start. Is that most likely due to hydrolock? Any suggestions on what to ask them to try and test before calling it a total?

2)Where Is the ECU located? I was hearing from other sources that insurance would total cases like this b/c the computer was fried, though from what I understand, those computers were under the seats. If the computer didnt fry, it still might be saveable right? And would anyone have the diagrams for this? I know the repair manual used to float around here...

3) Any random advice on what to do?

Thanks in advance, and please dont flame.

CF-Ninja

iTrader: (2)

ECU is above the glove box in the dash, and one under the hood in front of your driver side strut. Most likely did not get wet.
Did you have a cold air intake on your car? If that is the case, you definatly hydro-locked going through that deep of water.

ddcha

iTrader: (4)

Try waiting a while. Could simply be a wet starter. You can try to dry the starter if you can reach it. But same thing happened to me a while back and it started right back up after a day of sitting in the sun.

ixopnoydjoci

stock setup completely, at least in regards to everything but the windows.

ddcha, where in jersey u from? i did this near an area to get onto 1 and 9 right by newark airport yesterday afternoon. also, how deep was it when you did this?

and its also sitting at the place i was towed to, i dont have access to it.

electrically speaking, how bad would anyone say it could be? i know the speakers started to hiss even though there wasnt anything in the starter. And i know the amp is shot and maybe the sub now cause of the way they towed me.

ddcha

iTrader: (4)

I'm near Wayne, NJ, about half hour from Newark. You should call the towing company and ask them to try and start it. Or to "bang" the starter to shake off any excess moisture.

ixopnoydjoci

My dad went there to go and look at it this morning, and he said it would just click and lock up. Then again, maybe a day in the sun might help too. I just really hope its not totalled...

The filter was found to be wet, and if it is a case of hydrolock, what are the chances of the car being saveable?

ddcha

iTrader: (4)

If it's totaled, you can always buy mine. It's graphite gray, 2005, only 7k miles. Thinking about upgrading because expecting an addition to my family in May.

ixopnoydjoci

stick or auto? If it is totalled... they wanted to go with a corolla automatic so that my mom can drive it. We shall see. Like I said though, hopefully it isn't totalled. If insurance goes tomorrow, then at least there is time for it to dry more.

ddcha

iTrader: (4)

manual transmission of course! I hearya on the mom issue. good luck.

ixopnoydjoci

Thank you sir.

Anyone else have any advice on possible things to check?

Myszkewicz

iTrader: (2)

Pull out your spark plugs and disconnect your coil packs, and then try to crank over the engine. If it turns over, but a geyser of water shoots out of one or more cylinders, then it was hydrolocked.

In which case, you may have bent a connecting rod. You can either drop the oil pan to check, or put your coils and plugs back in and find out the hard way.

ixopnoydjoci

With either case, what would be the best thing to do? And would insurance go through all that kind of a check?

Myszkewicz

iTrader: (2)

Insurance would probably tow it to a dealer or a mechanic, who *should* go through all that, after verifying that the engine doesn't turn over normally, especially if they know you drove it through deep water.

Personally, if I got water shooting out of any cylinders during that test, I'd drop the pan and have a look. If any of the rods are obviously bent, they'll need replacing, which is not for the faint-of-heart. Best bet there is to tow it to a shop or the dealer.

If you sight down the length of them all and they look good, reinstall the oil pan, fill with oil, and then do a compression check. All the cylinders should read about 225psi, or at least more than 165psi and within 14psi of each other. Any that don't might be leaking. You probably won't get 225psi on a cold engine, but you have no choice there.

If the rods and compression check out good, you lucked out, and can put your plugs and coils back in and it'll probably run and drive again.

ixopnoydjoci

its at a shop now but the mechanic there seems to want it to be scrapped. he said that about every car that theyre most likely gonna be totaled

Myszkewicz

iTrader: (2)

Probably for the best, anyway. Flood damaged cars are prone to electrical problems, even after the mechanical defects are repaired. Also, unless they replace the seats, carpet, carpet padding, and sound deadening insulation, you'll never get the smell out that will be there in a month or so.