When I come home on leave I want to finally put in my clutch and flywheel, reseal my headlights so I also need that pic of how to take off the front bumper, udp kit need to know how to break the bolts free, torque specs, and how to make the timing mark, ss clutch line so I need the clutch bleeding link/info., ss brake lines need to know bleeding order, new rotors and pads(should be cut and dry), oil filter sandwich plate with oil press. and temp hookups, 3 gauge pillar pod, and new stereo. And the last one that I've been putting off is adjusting my valve lash( already have a new valve cover gasket) seems rather simple besides gettin the gapping correct and finding the Topdeadcenter, should I use locktite?

I know I know, all of this was talked about before, but now its getting close to crunch time and I need to do all of this within 3 days and Im a little scared that I will run into a problem that I cant solve or I'll brake something and end up having to trailer it to a damn dealership.

 

you're expecting to do all of this in 3 days... Have you ever installed a clutch before? Or better yet have you even opened up a transmission before?

The udp kit comes with instructions, along with the timing marks are already on the car if I can recall. I didn't have to make any marks when I did my timing belt, they all had marks before.

The SS Clutch line is an easy install and if you can't search for "how to bleed a clutch" then you obviously need to sit down and do more research on the transmission and everything else.

This isn't a website where we do the work for you, all the knowledge is here, its up to you to find it. The search function wasn't installed so that people can come on here and post a list of demands for us to fulfill.

For the stereo if you have the sun & Sound kit, then you'll need to get an adapter for the amp setup which cost me around 30$ shipped from I forget what company, but if you don't have the SS kit then you're all set.

Bleeding of the clutch is a 2 person job, where one guy pushes the clutch in which the other guy is in the engine bay making sure there's enough fluid, when the clutch pusher feel pressure on the clutch have him hold it down. Then the engine guy opens the bleeder valve to let out the air and fluid, tightens it and then the clutch guy repeats the pumping method. Keep in mind this isn't like pumping the brakes, there isn't much line for the clutch setup so only a couple of pumps is needed for it to fill up, normally only like 2. And yes after you bleed it it will feel weak until you pump it to fill it with more fluid. Do this until you don't get anymore air coming out and KEEP AN EYE ON THE FLUID LEVEL!

O yea unless you know a guy at a shop the transmission work alone normally takes the average shop 3 days to install unless they spend the entire day on your car. In which case you'll want to have ordered the fluid and throw-out bearing for the car already.

 

Good luck man, if you are asking on how to break the bolts free, I think it will take you more like 2 weeks to do all that and this is if you have the parts available.

 

Allright yea, I didnt expect someone to do all my research, I've read all of this info before and hopefully the search link will work for me. I do have mechanic skills. The clutch didnt sound too hard, take off the tire, the axel, the battery, the starter, and disconnect and drop the transmission. The ACT clutch comes with everything I need except the fluid. The timing mark I was talking about is on the original pulley and not on the new one. I've bleed my clutch before but it wasnt much help and Im a lil confused about the two bleeder locations. I will take pictures and I'll let you guys know how long it does take me, hoepfully no more than 5 days.

I dont know why everyone is sour when something is already talked about, the lancer ralliart is old news to everyone except us, no new parts, no new developments, no new directions. I just went with all the common sense low budget performance pieces to stay a little bit ahead or catch up with other cars instead of flashy pieces, or expensive carbon fiber, or customise it yourself and make it worse than stock. I feel sorry for anyone that wasted more than $500 for RRM products, that could've been gas money.

 

I went with RRM parts because I didn't want to go through the hassle of the local muffler shops which, though some say they do a good job, I beg to differ. I don't mind supporting a shop who specializes in our car since honestly no one else does.

People are sour when something is already talked about because if everyone posted up questions that have already been discussed without searching there would be so much random repeats of questions on this site that it would in the end push the usual guys out because of dis-interest. This way technically keeps the forums a bit more organized and easier to sift through. Plus why put a search button if people don't use it... It has a purpose, its like google-ing. All the info is out there, when you have a problem or question you google it, its the same exact thing as this forum.