Dimming Headlights
Mar 4, 2013, 09:25 PM
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Dimming Headlights
For the past while I've noticed my headlights dim when I am in neutral, idling or have my foot down on the clutch. When I start going and the rpms rise, the headlights get noticeable brighter. Is this a sign my battery is going or is there something wrong with my alternator?
Mar 5, 2013, 05:15 AM
#4
+2...
if you have a voltmeter, make sure you have ~14.8v at the battery when the car is idling...and at least ~12v when the car is off..
most shops have a battery/charging/starting system checker...they ussually test your stuff for free if you're getting some kind of service done...
if u just go in and sey "hey i have this issue, where my lights dim etc, they'll likely tell you "yea we can look...but we need 1 hr diag paid first"...but if u do need a battery or alternator or sumn, they ussually put the $ towards that repair and u get "free" diag
if you have a voltmeter, make sure you have ~14.8v at the battery when the car is idling...and at least ~12v when the car is off..
most shops have a battery/charging/starting system checker...they ussually test your stuff for free if you're getting some kind of service done...
if u just go in and sey "hey i have this issue, where my lights dim etc, they'll likely tell you "yea we can look...but we need 1 hr diag paid first"...but if u do need a battery or alternator or sumn, they ussually put the $ towards that repair and u get "free" diag
Mar 5, 2013, 07:04 AM
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Mar 5, 2013, 04:52 PM
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Thanks for the replies. I don't have a UDP but I'll get the battery checked either tomorrow when I get a chance or the next day.
Would my stereo have anything to do with it too? I'm still learning about the electrical stuff but I have a 1200 watt amp for two subs and the gains set properly. I don't crank the volume up very often and I find that the headlights do still dim even with my stereo off. I haven't had any issues with my headlights dimming when I do turn the volume up either.
Would my stereo have anything to do with it too? I'm still learning about the electrical stuff but I have a 1200 watt amp for two subs and the gains set properly. I don't crank the volume up very often and I find that the headlights do still dim even with my stereo off. I haven't had any issues with my headlights dimming when I do turn the volume up either.
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Mar 5, 2013, 05:09 PM
#8
that's quite a bit of power, RMS is 600W...what kind of subs are you driving?
assuming you're using the remote line to control the amp?
check the output of the alternator, battery is used primarily for cranking...but if the alternator's not keeping up to the demand, the battery will start to drain...
assuming you're using the remote line to control the amp?
check the output of the alternator, battery is used primarily for cranking...but if the alternator's not keeping up to the demand, the battery will start to drain...
Mar 5, 2013, 05:33 PM
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If you have that big of a sound system, you should have a capacitor to lessen it's impact on the charging system of the car.
As for your problem, are all grounds in good shape, no corrosion, etc. ? Are your battery terminals clean and solidly clamped? Have your alternator and battery tested, if you know anyone with a multimeter, have them test both. If not, any parts shop will sell you one for 20-30 bucks, you really should buy one and learn how to use it.
Does your idle dip when clutching, then gets back to normal and stay there?
If so, I'd try cruising with the purge valve solenoid hose blocked, you might have the same problem that a lot of people seem to be having recently.
Do you feel ANYTHING while cruising?? Less power? Or surging power?
Plugs might be shot, gapped incorrectly. Injectors might be clogged.
All I could think of right now.
As for your problem, are all grounds in good shape, no corrosion, etc. ? Are your battery terminals clean and solidly clamped? Have your alternator and battery tested, if you know anyone with a multimeter, have them test both. If not, any parts shop will sell you one for 20-30 bucks, you really should buy one and learn how to use it.
Does your idle dip when clutching, then gets back to normal and stay there?
If so, I'd try cruising with the purge valve solenoid hose blocked, you might have the same problem that a lot of people seem to be having recently.
Do you feel ANYTHING while cruising?? Less power? Or surging power?
Plugs might be shot, gapped incorrectly. Injectors might be clogged.
All I could think of right now.
Mar 6, 2013, 09:53 AM
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that's quite a bit of power, RMS is 600W...what kind of subs are you driving?
assuming you're using the remote line to control the amp?
check the output of the alternator, battery is used primarily for cranking...but if the alternator's not keeping up to the demand, the battery will start to drain...
assuming you're using the remote line to control the amp?
check the output of the alternator, battery is used primarily for cranking...but if the alternator's not keeping up to the demand, the battery will start to drain...
If you have that big of a sound system, you should have a capacitor to lessen it's impact on the charging system of the car.
As for your problem, are all grounds in good shape, no corrosion, etc. ? Are your battery terminals clean and solidly clamped? Have your alternator and battery tested, if you know anyone with a multimeter, have them test both. If not, any parts shop will sell you one for 20-30 bucks, you really should buy one and learn how to use it.
Does your idle dip when clutching, then gets back to normal and stay there?
If so, I'd try cruising with the purge valve solenoid hose blocked, you might have the same problem that a lot of people seem to be having recently.
Do you feel ANYTHING while cruising?? Less power? Or surging power?
Plugs might be shot, gapped incorrectly. Injectors might be clogged.
All I could think of right now.
As for your problem, are all grounds in good shape, no corrosion, etc. ? Are your battery terminals clean and solidly clamped? Have your alternator and battery tested, if you know anyone with a multimeter, have them test both. If not, any parts shop will sell you one for 20-30 bucks, you really should buy one and learn how to use it.
Does your idle dip when clutching, then gets back to normal and stay there?
If so, I'd try cruising with the purge valve solenoid hose blocked, you might have the same problem that a lot of people seem to be having recently.
Do you feel ANYTHING while cruising?? Less power? Or surging power?
Plugs might be shot, gapped incorrectly. Injectors might be clogged.
All I could think of right now.
Mar 6, 2013, 12:52 PM
#11
depends on how many channels the amp has, whether each channel is 600W rms, or only when bridged, etc.not sure what you mean by the remote bass knob, what i'm referring to is how the deck is wired to the amp...if the AMP stays on when the deck (head unit) is off, that could be the problem.
Last edited by CrAnSwIcK; Mar 6, 2013 at 12:55 PM.
Mar 6, 2013, 03:41 PM
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Right now I'm running two JL 10W3V3's and ya, using a remote bass knob at the front
Checked it out this morning, grounds are good, no corrosion on the battery, and tested it with a multimeter. It reads 12.33 volts, and then 14.63 volts running. I wouldn't think that my battery would be starting to go yet. It was replaced with a brand new one shortly before I bought the car two years ago.
Checked it out this morning, grounds are good, no corrosion on the battery, and tested it with a multimeter. It reads 12.33 volts, and then 14.63 volts running. I wouldn't think that my battery would be starting to go yet. It was replaced with a brand new one shortly before I bought the car two years ago.
Mar 7, 2013, 07:30 AM
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Are they in series or parallel? also that amp is barely keeping up with one of those subs..lol depends on how many channels the amp has, whether each channel is 600W rms, or only when bridged, etc.
not sure what you mean by the remote bass knob, what i'm referring to is how the deck is wired to the amp...if the AMP stays on when the deck (head unit) is off, that could be the problem.
depends on how many channels the amp has, whether each channel is 600W rms, or only when bridged, etc.not sure what you mean by the remote bass knob, what i'm referring to is how the deck is wired to the amp...if the AMP stays on when the deck (head unit) is off, that could be the problem.
As for the bass knob I believe it acts as a volume control, but the remote wire is wired right. I made sure that the amp turns off when the car or head unit is off so I wouldn't have this problem.
I will try that next time I get a chance. I'm going to take it to my dad's shop when I need an oil change and get him to do a load test on it as well.
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