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Step 1: Use Pliers to slide back the clamp on the hose running from Brake Fluid Reservoir and unplug hose. Quickly Plug the outlet on the brake fluid reservoir so you don't lose all of your fluid (Picture 1)
Step 2: Use 17 MM Wrench to LOOSEN Banjo bolt on the side of the Clutch Master Cylinder. Do not remove the bolt entirely, you do not want to lose the washers on this! (Picture 2)
Step 3: Remove the clip that attaches the Clutch Master Cylinder to the Clutch Pedal itself. (Picture 3) I apologize for the photo being blurry but I could not get a good photo and then my camera died lol
Step 4: Loosen the 12MM bolt on the back of the Fork that connects the clutch master cylinder to the clutch pedal. Once the bolt is as far back as it can go, continue to loosen it until the rod is completely disconnected from the fork. This will allow the Clutch master Cylinder to be pulled a LOT easier. (Picture 3)
Step 5: Remove the 2 12 MM bolts shown in Picture 4. One will be on the top and one will be on the bottom of the plate.
Step 6: At this point you should be able to work the old clutch master cylinder out of the engine bay. It was not an easy task and proved to be the most difficult part for me. I found that if you remove the plate shown in Picture 5, it will allow for a little more play in the clutch line. This allowed me to pull the old master cylinder.
Step 7: Once the Clutch Master Cylinder has been pulled, you can now remove the 17MM bolt shown in picture 2 and transfer the line and washers to the new Clutch Master Cylinder. Tighten the banjo bolt onto the CMC and allow for a little play so it's easier work it down into the hole your removed the old one from.
Step 8: Tighten the 12 MM bolts from picture 4.
Step 9: Tighten the 17 MM bolt in picture 2.
Step 10: Reattach the line in picture 1 that connects the brake fluid reservoir to the CMC
Step 11: Reinstall the plate in picture 5 if you removed it
Step 12: Connect the Fork from picture 3 to the back of the clutch pedal and install clip to hold it back into place.
Step 13: Bleed the Clutch to remove any air from the line
Step 14: Adjust the Clutch Pedal Engagement point. This is done by moving the 12 MM bolt on the back of the fork in picture 3.
Adjusting the Clutch Pedal Engagement Point:
Bringing the clutch pedal closer to the CMC will shorten how long it takes to engage the pedal but it may not push enough fluid to the clutch making it difficult to shift and possibly damage the Clutch. I found that extending the clutch pedal engagement point to about 3/4 up the CMC rod gave me the best engagement point. Mine may differ from yours since I have a Clutchmaster Stage 2 Clutch. Just make sure that the Clutch is engaging properly and smoothly and you will be fine!
woooow amazing write up. im at work right now and i just quickly skimmed through it and i already have a general idea of what ill be seeing when i go through it. very straight to the point and detailed. i feel like i can do this with ease just because this write-up is here to help. thanks a lot man! looking forward to changing mine in the near future. ill probably change my CMC and CSC at the same time so i only have to bleed once lol. we will see
If only I read this before I changed it. I agree that getting the cylinder out then the new one in is the hardest part. If you're bleeding and nothing is coming out then top up the fluid reservoir. If you look closely the clutch uses a small compartment of the brake fluid reservoir. So just because it looks full, the clutch fluid compartment may be empty. Just fill it right to the top and use the bleeding process to bring it to the proper level. It took me a bit to figure that out as it just wouldn't build pressure when I was bleeding it.
If only I read this before I changed it. I agree that getting the cylinder out then the new one in is the hardest part. If you're bleeding and nothing is coming out then top up the fluid reservoir. If you look closely the clutch uses a small compartment of the brake fluid reservoir. So just because it looks full, the clutch fluid compartment may be empty. Just fill it right to the top and use the bleeding process to bring it to the proper level. It took me a bit to figure that out as it just wouldn't build pressure when I was bleeding it.
Yea thanks for replying but i noticed this like an hour after I posted
I finally had to replace the clutch master cylinder in my car today, after 231,000 miles. Wasn't as bad as I had expected, with the cramped space it fits in.
I removed the strut tower bar, air filter box, MAS, and intake pipe. While I was at it, I lubed my solid brass shift cable bushings, because they tend to stick in winter.
Removed the fluid hose from the inlet, and tucked it between the brake booster and reservoir. I also cracked the banjo bolt on the clutch line loose, but didn't remove it yet.
Up under the dash, there was a LOT of dust, some spider webs, and the linkage that needs to be disconnected. There's a small clip that holds a pin in place, that pin connects the clutch pedal to the plunger yoke. To the left of the blue thing. There was originally a switch mounted through the blue thing, but it's long gone. All it does is make you hold down the clutch pedal to start the engine.
This is the orientation you need to get the CMC in and out of that space, and it's still *very* tight. This is the new one going in. Once it's in the space, rotate it so you can attach the clutch line and banjo bolt but leave it loose about half a turn. Then use a long screwdriver to push the yoke through the hole in the firewall. Then get back under the dash.
This setup is a lifesaver for my 46YO spine. Rather than lay on the rocker panel or upside down in the driver's seat. Put the nuts on the two studs, and tighten them down. Fit the yoke to the pedal, and insert the pin and clip. Reattach the hose from the brake fluid reservoir and tighten the banjo bolt that last half turn. You *did* remember the copper washers, right? I hope so. Then fill and bleed, bleed, bleed. This required a helper, as vacuum/canister bleeding didn't quite cut it.
Bleed it until no more air comes out. Top off the fluid, and cap it. At this point, it was driveable, but clutch engagement was about 0.01" off the floor. Back under the dash, I loosened the 12mm jam nut on the yoke/plunger, and turned the plunger rod until only about four threads showed sticking out, then tightened the nut again. Pedal height is now perfect.
I don't know how you guys got a wrench on that 17mm banjo but I can confirm the unit will go in and out without loosening that banjo. What a lousy place to put a clutch master.
Jul 24, 2013, 01:48 PM
