floating doc

I'm tired of my mushy brakes. I think the master cylinder isn't holding pressure, and I've definitely got a firmer pedal when I pump the brakes. I ordered a new MC last night, and a set of front rotors (current ones have some high spots).

They had a good price on StopTech braided lines for the front, so I bought those too. The ST brand lines only come for the front, so now I've got to decide whether to just change the fronts only or buy the RRM rears.

The RRM set is over twice the cost of the ones I bought for the front, and I'm wondering, how much will it matter if I leave the rubber lines on the back?

bakuro117

iTrader: (5)

Techna-fit offers a whole set of brake lines for the RA

http://www.technafitstore.com/MITSUB...p/mit-1710.htm

floating doc

Thanks, I appreciate the tip. I already have a pair for the front and paid about $40 for them.

floating doc

Update: not a lot of options for buying only the rear lines, so I bought a pair from RRM. I've never bought anything from them. Hope they deliver in a reasonable time.

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

brake hoses are among the few things that RRM sells that isn't over-priced...

floating doc

Got my lines, changed out the master cylinder, rotors, pads and installed the braided lines. Brake pedal is more firm, but not as much as I hoped. Had the work done by my regular shop; they do most of the track/autocross cars in the area, so air in the lines is unlikely.

I read about the firewall flex issue, and I can see the MC move when I press the pedal. I guess a MC brace might make a bit of a difference. The automatic and manual cars use a different MC, so it's possible that it wouldn't fit.

RalliartN

iTrader: (1)

Of all the cars I've ever driven, the brakes with the quickest initial grab and hardest haul-down have been on BMW's; even their lard-*** SUV's bite like a junkyard dog (daughter has a diesel X5). Recently I was invited to drive, for a few trackday laps, an M3 with "racing" pads that squeeked like Minnie Mouse. By comparison, our RA has less initial bite but quickly develops solid grab with decent feel. Just changed my pads and bled fluid (ATE 200), still have the original rotors, and it works nice and tight on street and track.

Pads are key. Cranswick's Hawk pads and my EBC greenstuff and now yellowstuff give very good performance. This might be the cause of your issue: what did the shop install, same "regular" pads as Grandma's Corolla? Not poking fun, I've done that and some generic brands are noticably poor at providing the level of grip you're expecting.

p.s. I've been considering the MC flex for awhile too. Please post if you decide to fabricate/purchase a stop.

floating doc

Yeah, the pads are your standard auto parts store lifetime warranty ceramics. I suppose better pads might help, but those same pads on my 99 accord with a budget big brake kit (11.2" Prelude VTEC rotors and single piston Integra Type R calipers) worked great. That car stops like a slammed door, and the pedal modulation is perfect.

The Lancer pedal is plenty firm after I get the brakes engaged, and the car stops well. It just feels mushy when first applying the pedal. I think it's the firewall flex, so it's possible that the MC brace could help; I'm thinking of buying the Grimmspeed one.

I sure wish there was a way to upgrade the rotor size on this car without spending the big bucks for the RRM BBK. Even I could afford that (and that's not possible), I don't want to go with something that requires 17" wheels. The accord upgrade only cost me a few hundred, installed, and the stock 15's still (barely) fit.