bronto11588

so according to NHRA i have to put a disconnect switch on my bumper for my battery relocation kit to make it track legal so my question is what kind of switches have other people used i dont care if this goes off topic but i would like to keep it about battery relocation stuff thanks for your help in advance people!!! P.S. i have looked up alot of switches but no one has pictures of anything installed to show an actual size its easy to write sizes but totally different when its installed on your car!!

DaJackson

iTrader: (4)

Took about 30 seconds on Google to find a bunch of pics

http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2629798

bronto11588

i found pictures but i was wondering if anyone had any thought on specific ones cause i looked at a few and people had problems with them shorting out as well as i need one that is NHRA approved

toredefine

iTrader: (6)

There was a thread a while ago that was started, I think in the "How-To" section requesting for battery relocation to the trunk and an external kill switch for it. I'm very interested in doing this, as well. I figured once I was actually ready to relocate my battery, I would bury my face into my computer screen to research possible solutions. It would be real nice if someone spoke up and told us how they did it. I know SOMEONE on here has done this already...

bronto11588

well i found out that www.moroso.com sells the only approved plastic battery box they also sell nhra approved wiring kit and a kill switch and the switch cant be plastic or keyed if your going to race at the drag strip

heres this too

yep after 12 hours of searching (i have nothing to do at work) this is what i found...
I have a street car that I occasionally run at the strip. I've relocated the battery to the rear. What else do I need?
Any car with a relocated battery must be equipped with a master electrical cutoff, capable of stopping all electrical functions including ignition (must shut the engine off, as well as fuel pumps, etc.). The switch must be located on the rear of the vehicle, with the "off" position clearly marked. If the switch is of a "push / pull" type, then "push" must be the motion that shuts off the switch, and plastic or "keyed" typed switches are prohibited. Also, the battery must be completely sealed from the driver and/or driver compartment. This means a metal bulkhead must separate the trunk from the driver compartment, or the battery must be located in a sealed, metal box constructed of minimum .024 inch steel or .032 inch aluminum, or in an NHRA accepted plastic box. In cars with a conventional trunk, metal can simply be installed behind the rear seat and under the package tray to effectively seal the battery off from the driver. In a hatchback type vehicle the battery box is usually the easiest solution, since the alternative is to fabricate a bulkhead which seals to the hatch when closed. At present, Moroso is the only company which offers an NHRA accepted plastic battery box, part number 74050.
But I drive on the street. I don't want a big cut off switch hanging on the back.
This solution takes a little work, but it solves the problem. Install the master cutoff inside the vehicle, positioned "sideways" so that the toggle moves forward and back. Drill a hole in the toggle handle, and attach a steel rod that will run out the back of the car, through a hole drilled completely through one tail light assembly. Have a spare tail light assembly on hand, so when you come home from the drags, you remove the rod and put the cherry tail light back in for street cruising. Next time you plan on going to the drag strip, swap lights and reinstall the rod. Since the drilled light is for the strip only, you can also have it marked "PUSH OFF" in big letters so the Tech Inspectors will think you're cool