You didn't see what I wrote in post #9???

 

I did, and thank you for your input. Just had hoped to get other peoples opinions also.

Had hoped to transition into the oil people use and why.

Basically what I'm hearing is use Full Synthetic also brands doesn't really matter much, avoid those that have additives or blends.

So now slee, Why use oil that has Titanium in it? Why have "Strong" oil? Reading the Castrol website really doesn't clarify much...

 

Wut? It's called Castrol Titanium, it doesn't literally have chucks of metal in it.

 

I'd advocate avoid blends (ie. semi-synthetic oils), but there's nothing wrong with additives IMHO. Unless you mean additional oil additives that are sold in small containers separate to the engine oil itself.

The Titanium moniker added to the latest Castrol oils are just a marketing gimmick. It's not titanium metal, it's a titanium based compound that the company claims is an anti wear additive. The industry seems to have otherwise settled on ZDDP as the 'holy grail' of anti wear additives ("Race" spec engine oils will boast high amounts of Zinc Dialkyl Dithio Phosphate no matter what branding; and it seems virgin oil analysis posted over on Bob Is the Oil Guy's forums members there tend to favour oils that have higher levels of ZDDP.

Valvoline is another brand that have their own proprietary additive package that doesn't show up in traditional chemical oil analyses. So virgin oil analysis would show seemingly poor/low levels of protective additives however used oil analyses show they're above average in wear protection.

I've used Castrol and Mobil 1 (5W40 and 0W40 respectively) in my Ralliart - no noticeable difference in them. But the latest service I took to a dealer which used Havoline 5W40, and is the only one I can hear a difference - at higher RPM ranges it seems to muffle more of the engine noise, causing it to sound less harsh. I had thought the harshness was just a characteristic of the 4B11 engine, but this Havoline oil has made it go away.

 

Next, you're going to tell me Magnatek isn't actually magnetic at all...!

Rich


[edit] PS. Yeah, okay, so it's "Magnatec". Who cares... my joke is still utterly hullarius.

 

Oh you think you have a warranty how cute. Unless you know you have a good dealer near you (like say south coast in LA), it is best to assume you actually don't have one...least you end up with a denied claim and no way to have a working car. We had a member get a denied claim based on something our cars actually can't even do.

 

I like castrol titanium and mobil 1...but that is mostly because those are the ones that tend to go on sale around here with the free filter at autozone that ISN'T fram.

 

My dealership gave me 2 years of free oil changes and tire rotations for buying the car.

I get my oil changed whenever the "service required" reminder comes on and don't think anything more of it.

AFTER the free oil change deal is done with, I'll be renewing my discount program with AMSOIL and putting that in and running it no more than 7-8k miles depending on how I'm driving.

AMSOIL really is a great product. I ran it in my 2011 CBR600RR for over 8k miles of track and street riding and it came out honey colored still and after Blackstone did the analysis they had said I shouldn't have even changed it.

 

Oddly enough, yes, I bought it at South Coast Mitsubishi in Orange County (Costa Mesa) Glad to hear that they may treat me well there.

 

The Owner's Manual for the Ralliart requires OCI at 3750k miles, synthetic or not. Mitsubishi NA and JDM (not just the dealerships) also specify that the required oil is a conventional 5W30. If you visit all the major oil brands shopping tools, i.e., Mobil, Pennzoil, Castrol, they all have their conventional 5W30 oil as meeting requirement for the Ralliart (synthetic blend or synthetic is recommended under their 'Premium' levels of protection BUT is not required). If you don't track your car, live in the desert or in freezing climates and you are required to change the oil every 3750k miles anyway, synthetic nor synthetic blend is neccessary. As long as your oil is quality spec - 5W30 API SN / ILSAC GF-5. If you wish to go 5k miles between OCI and go against the manuals minimum recomendation of every 3750k, use synthetic or 'blend.

I follow NAS 20 and (5000 mile oci) and use Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 but I know its not required oil.

 

Moral of story.

Change oil at every 3k miles.

Shove whatever oil you want in it.

 

LOL... wouldnt go that far though.

 

Nice Analysis!

Around the office I asked and they said we get "Autopride" oil which is a re-branded Valvoline synthetic oil, pretty cheap, about $3 quart. So yeah I'll just use that every 3k miles. I'll make sure it has the "API SM or SN / ILSAC GF-5" stuff.

Thank you all for your thoughts and input.

 

3000 miles, way too soon .

 

Eh I DD mine and get free oil changes for 24k miles. Whatever Mitsu dumps in is good for me. If engine goes boom it can be their fault.