DsmEvo87

Dear all,

Little back story, unfortunately I was rear ended 2 days ago and saw red fluid dripping in the ground (not a nice feeling) At home I was hoping to see that a hose might of popped but soon realised that the acd pump/housing has a 2 inch crack.

now as I prepare to battle insurance I want to know if our acd pump (located in the back under drunk) is it different than the evo x? I Guess so because they have ayc/acd but my main question here is how do I go about bleeding this system? I know I must have a mut-2 tool but where are the nipples located? How many are there?

please help as I'm clueless about this system.

searched alot but only got evo x how to's and I dont think it applies to our ralliarts any help/tips would be welcome!

thanks in advance (and sorry for the english/grammar as it's not my native language)

Raikiri

iTrader: (21)

Since you were rear ended wouldn't the insurance be taking care of it for you?

DsmEvo87

normally they do IF the car was sold here where I'm from, since the car is an import(I'ts the only RA on the island, and if it was brought to dealer they would say it's a normal lancer and they wouldnt even know that model existed... it's that bad over here) they just give you am X amount of money for you to fix yourself hence me posting for help

Laza

IIRC, the pump on the RA is different. The mounts are slightly different and there are fewer ports on the pump (as the evo has AYC).

c08

As others have said the Evo X pump is different. It has solenoids/lines etc. for AYC which the Ralliart pump does not.

I have no experience with it but this looks like the ACD bleed procedure for the Evo X, so I'm guessing the Ralliart is the same or similar (in 22A-118):

http://www.evoxservicemanual.co.uk/P...M1221011600052

Of course with the Evo you have to do the AYC bleed too (which is listed in another part of the manual) but that is obviously not applicable for the Ralliart.

I think this part covers replacing the pump (in 27-58):

http://www.evoxservicemanual.co.uk/P...7.pdf#G2317073

You might want to look through the Ralliart service manuals (I think RRE has them online) to see if you can find the procedure listed anywhere there. This is probably something I'd rather have a dealer do though.

DWILSON357

iTrader: (1)

The pump is rebuilable as well, check the pump for cracks, you may have lucked out and just busted a line off.

DsmEvo87

Wow thanks man this is really helpfull! I've been digging for some info and it looks like there's nipple(s) (it's not yet clear if is one or more than one) for bleeding and I've read somewhere that you can switch car to the on position slam the gas pedal to the floor and this should activate the pump and then should just open/close nipple(s) till it's properly bled

How I wish we had knowledgeable dealers here where Im from, taking it to the dealer is like asking uncle bob to do it think of it like bringing an gtr r32 to the dealer kinda situation

Thx for your input that was my initial thinking but sadly the housing has a crack (dont know if maybe welding that piece would hold) but as mentioned insurance will cover for a new one

DsmEvo87

Just for reference our acd pump only has 1 bleeding point its below the t.case, now I just need to find a way to "manually" activate the pump

Videodrome

I have to rebuilt my pump this summer....fck!

Veronica

iTrader: (2)

I had success bleeding mine by just 'cracking the b-nut and letting fluid come out and then torqueing it.


No issues/no codes.

DsmEvo87

wow really? But doesnt the pump needs to be "running" for proper bleeding? Hope I can be as lucky as you hehe I recently bought an acd/ayc bleeder from the guys at Evolution Hydraulics a company in the UK so hopefully when it reach I can tackle it but will try your method

Veronica

iTrader: (2)

1. The interior volume of the unit is really small.
2. The reservoir (once connected) is gravity-feeding fluid through the unit. By keeping the output b-nut slightly loose - fluid begins to come out (and air).


3. The output line opening to the ACD is physically higher than the ACD - so fluid doesn't flow out upon pump assy. removal - so no air is introduced (and it is the highest point - so any air would simply 'float' tot he top and dissipate).


4. I ran the engine and turned the steering wheel left and right to turn the pump on. After a few cycles like that - I properly torqued the b-nut fitting and finished putting the rest of the car stuff back on...


"why" I thought this would work (and it did) was based on my 22 years as a aircraft hydraulics mechanic and MS in engineering


And if it does not work and you still have a light - no damage is done, you just need to pay for a bleed at the dealership. So give it a try, eh?

Veronica

iTrader: (2)

I tried to rebuild mine - no joy The corrosion was so bad I took it to a marine shop to dissemble it when I could not get it to separate. And the shop could not get it either and asked if the pump had been under water for years!


So, I say that to say - I wish you better success than I had.


I cleaned, RTV'd the exterior joints and painted the whole thing (masking off fittings and connectors, of course)...

DsmEvo87

Dear all so I have an update and a question.

I received and installed my 2nd hand acd pump, installed and filled with fluid. I started the car up and thankfully the pump works (codes went away) now I know I have air in the system because when the car is off the reservoir bottle is full with fluid (at max level) but with the car running it drops to just above the min level.

the car is at the bodyshop at the moment while I still wait for the acd pump bleeder to arrive, now my question is that is it "safe" to drive the car with air in the system? I still think my bleeder will take awhile before it reaches and I dont know if its safe to drive the car when I receive it back from shop.

DWILSON357

iTrader: (1)

Awesome news, There is a bleed procedure for a fresh install versus a PM bleed. Keep searching you'll find it