I'm a little worried
 

Hi everyone completely new to the forum world and the ralliart world to be quite honest. I bought my 2010 ralliart about a month ago. It the automatic with paddle shifters and the oprion to manually shift it on the stick as well. It just seems like it has to hit a certain rpm before the car will really take when I am in first gear. It revs really high and then it takes. Sorry if this is a really stupid question but I am concerned and I would like to figure it out before my warranty goes bad. If someone could give me some clarity that would be great!

It sounds like you have it in sport mode if it revs high before shifting. Does it say "sport" or "normal" in the center display?

It would be helpful if you checked your wording. I read this and aside from the misspelling of words I have no idea what your actual question is. You need to rephrase it in a format someone else can understand what you are actually asking.

Also a mod list, any tunes done or work? This makes a big difference. I think I know what you are asking and I have a solution but you need to clarify your question.

Even in normal auto mode, the car needs to build up the required engine speed (RPM) to generate the torque required to start moving the car. If you bought your car used, flush out the SST fluid by the dealer. Other than that, it's acting normal.

You're not going to get any useful torque at 1500 RPM or anything low like that. Usually my '14 RA will start picking up at 2300 RPM then it's golden from that point on.

If you are new to driving turbo cars it will feel a lot different to a naturally aspirated car.

Stock RA won't move too fast until about 3000rpm when the turbo hits boost.

Getting a tune will help with responsiveness from a stand still.

The GST basemap also greatly improves the car's responsiveness from a standstill/dead stop. That's something that the creators(Bryan/Richard) built into their basemaps.{thumbup}

I really want to do this to my RA but I don't see files for a 2014 RA..

At light throttle, moving off from being stationary, it should "engage and go" pretty much instantly.

If you're sitting still, then floor the throttle, it'll sit there like a potato for a bit. Personally, I think it's unsafe for drivers unfamiliar with the SST. If they are hoping to dart out into traffic, and drive it as they would a torque-converter automatic, they'll get themselves T-boned or rear-ended. :(


But at light to medium throttle, it should just engage 1st and go.

Exactly. There's two things to remember. 1) it's a turbo car. There's not a lot of power until the turbo spools (at around 3,000rpm) as someone else said 2) the TC-SST is an automated MANUAL transmission if you've ever driven a truer manual then you know that when you first start off from a dead stop you need to slip the clutch a bit to start off smoothly. The SST trans does this as well. It DOES NOT act like a regular automatic trans. So don't drive it like one or you can get yourself into a bad situation. Meaning not making that left turn across oncoming traffic in time.

My money is on the previous owner didn't do the transmission service and the filter is clogged, these are very picky, and sometimes finiky cars, take proper care of it and you'll be wayyyy better off.

As far as I know there is no way to check the fluid or filter without most of it coming out anyway and it's not a cheap maintenance either. If you take it to the dealer they can diagnose and probably end up changing the transmision fluid and filter or I would personally prefer if there is a tuner shop around that knows RAs and/or SST evos have them check it out and probably end up changing the transmission fluid and filter.

^x2

Checking the filter no. You can check the fluid and the fluid level though. But YOU WILL NEED SOME OF THE FLUID ON HAND. That was in caps on purpose. You'll need to be quick because after you run through the trans positions you only have 15min to complete the fluid check. The filler is under the battery (which you'll need to remove) and the check plug is behind the drivers side front wheel next to the trans fluid pan (vertically mounted plastic pan) low and just in front of it. You'll need to partially undo the undertray so you can wedge a small drain pan in there and the car needs to be level when doing the check. I'll try and make a video next time I do it but don't know when that'll be. The check and fill plugs are an 8mm allen get one that'll go on your 3/8" ratchet and buy a quality tool. You DON'T want to strip these out.

1) The trans needs to be up to temp either after a short drive or letting it idle for 15min

2) With the engine running (hold for 20 seconds on each) go through R-P-N-D-Manual-D-N-R-P

3) Pull the check plug and fluid should come out

4) Add fluid in the filler until fluid comes out of the check plug

5) Put the check plug back in and everything back together.

^ true. The check plug is partially obscured on the RA (easily accessed on the EVO X MR). You can't just use a 'straight' 8mm allen - it needs to be short / bend at 90 deg...

I tried the allen key/socket set up and could not fit it on the check plug and fit the socket wrench in there... Please post a pix of the tool set up and how you are gaining access.

OR is there a Mitsu Special Tool for the task? If so - please provide a link before I cut an 8mm allen and use a box end wrench on the cut allen key...

You can use the Allen socket you just need one that's short, about 1" long. Then put you socket wrench on it. Or slip an 8mm ratcheting wrench over the 8mm allenwrench and loosen it and tighten it that way. Work smarter not harder ;0)