Help me choose wheel size!!!
Oct 12, 2009, 04:16 PM
#16
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on that point of 'sacrificing performance', well, a 235 tyre is actually approved to be fit on a rim of width from 8.0 to 9.5 without sacrificing tyre performance.
if you do go 9.5 +35, you will need the rears flared and yes, coilovers are a must.
the improvement in handling has been amazing - body roll - what is that?
and the increase in track has really made it sure footed
if you do go 9.5 +35, you will need the rears flared and yes, coilovers are a must.
the improvement in handling has been amazing - body roll - what is that?
and the increase in track has really made it sure footed
Oct 12, 2009, 04:19 PM
#17
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the other option is to run 255 35 18, but if you are going with this rim, then be prepared for the extra work to get them to fit
Last edited by billyboy1; Oct 12, 2009 at 04:29 PM.
Oct 12, 2009, 04:33 PM
#18
on that point of 'sacrificing performance', well, a 235 tyre is actually approved to be fit on a rim of width from 8.0 to 9.5 without sacrificing tyre performance.
if you do go 9.5 +35, you will need the rears flared and yes, coilovers are a must.
the improvement in handling has been amazing - body roll - what is that? and the increase in track has really made it sure footed
if you do go 9.5 +35, you will need the rears flared and yes, coilovers are a must.
the improvement in handling has been amazing - body roll - what is that?
and the increase in track has really made it sure footedThe improvement in handling is best attributed to the coilovers, alignment and the different compound of the tires, not the wheels.
Oct 12, 2009, 04:54 PM
#20
True but it's a proper tire size for that rim. If you just care about looks, a 235 is fine but it's not a performance choice at all. As I said before, there's no point in running a wide wheel with relatively skinny tires. Moreover, it seems like those 950$ rims are going to turn into a 2000$+ modification if you include all the parts and work needed just to make them fit.
Oct 12, 2009, 05:10 PM
#23
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And who said this is for performance? Like I've said in previous post, I hate the LOOK of flat wheels. Nothing about performance. I personally dont think the performance is gonna be harmed because I am running a wider tire then stock also with Coilovers will help me adjust my ride hight and camber to my liking. So either way, just to flare out rear fenders, and buy coilovers, which I already planned on doing is no problem to me.
Oct 12, 2009, 05:52 PM
#24
There is far more to performance than simply slapping a wider tire/wheel on with a stiff set of springs or coilovers. If you have the wrong tire size for a wheel, you're going to hurt performance in the sense that you're not achieving the performance possible with the parts you have. Of course you'll be better than stock but you will have also spent several thousand to do it. I wouldn't be shocked if an 8" wheel with a 235 tire outperformed a 9.5" wheel with a 235 tire. You need a bit of flexibility in the sidewall for grip, a perfectly static tire would be a nightmare to drive. A stiffer and lower ride is not the best for performance either, as with a tire, you need some softness in the suspension for grip. TurnInConcepts showed this very well, their race car has a lot more suspension travel than people would normally assume they'd need and they're crazy fast because of it. A good alignment is also a lot more than just more camber and I would be hesitant to run a lot of camber with your current tire choice.
Flaring out the rear fenders isn't a simple or cheap process, assuming you want it done right. If you're serious, I would start looking for shops now and see if they have any examples of the work they've done. This sounds like a pretty big project just to fit some Rotas.
Flaring out the rear fenders isn't a simple or cheap process, assuming you want it done right. If you're serious, I would start looking for shops now and see if they have any examples of the work they've done. This sounds like a pretty big project just to fit some Rotas.
Oct 12, 2009, 06:28 PM
#25
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Either way, its outside the box of what normal Ralliart owners have said they can do. I have one shop that does all my work and I totally trust them. And seeing how I only have to flare my rears, It'll cost about $400. This is the same shop the fitted and painted my Evo X style bumpers from ACI. But either way, its my car.
Oct 12, 2009, 06:35 PM
#26
? I haven't heard many Ralliart owners say it can't be done, plenty say (and rightfully so) that it's difficult and expensive to do. Based on what Billy said above, you have to flare the fronts as well, albeit not as much. You have to factor in painting as well. You're right, it is your car and you're free to mod it as you wish.
Oct 12, 2009, 06:57 PM
#27
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Originally Posted by billyboy1
hey mate,
it was a bit of a tight squeeze to get them all in coilovers are a must to get the right lowering and negative camber (needs the camber adjustment). the rears took a lot of love - i ended up getting them flared about 12-15mm but the problem with that was the sheet metal was pretty thin, so will have to get them to a body shop to touch up (the paint gave way at the top of the arches) the fronts surprisingly didn't need that much work - i thought they were going to be the worst, but once the coilovers were installed and lowered, then dialled in the negative camber, not much was actually done to the guards.
the specs were 9.5 +28, if you have got +35, that will give you an extra 7mm to play with, but you will need to flare the guards say 5-7mm in the rears and you'll need to run stretch tires - 235 at a minimum to get them to fit.
if you don't mind the flaring, then go for it - the end result speaks for itself!
it was a bit of a tight squeeze to get them all in
coilovers are a must to get the right lowering and negative camber (needs the camber adjustment). the rears took a lot of love - i ended up getting them flared about 12-15mm but the problem with that was the sheet metal was pretty thin, so will have to get them to a body shop to touch up (the paint gave way at the top of the arches) the fronts surprisingly didn't need that much work - i thought they were going to be the worst, but once the coilovers were installed and lowered, then dialled in the negative camber, not much was actually done to the guards. the specs were 9.5 +28, if you have got +35, that will give you an extra 7mm to play with, but you will need to flare the guards say 5-7mm in the rears and you'll need to run stretch tires - 235 at a minimum to get them to fit.
if you don't mind the flaring, then go for it - the end result speaks for itself!
Oct 12, 2009, 07:18 PM
#28
Notice he says the front don't need much work, that's not the same as no work. Since you're moved inboard by 7 mm compared to him, you won't need as much fender work but you may see clearance issues with the strut or other suspension components.
This whole thread confuses me, it's titled "Help me choose wheel size!!!" yet it seems that you've gone out and bought wheels before getting anyone's help.
This whole thread confuses me, it's titled "Help me choose wheel size!!!" yet it seems that you've gone out and bought wheels before getting anyone's help.