prozak

So I read more threads than i can count, and went through the thread with the parts list. I got the turbo, tubular header, down pipe, the whole swap kit that contains all the lines, nuts bolts and gaskets. I'm almost ready to do the swap but I have a couple questions I need answers to before I tear into this. 2009 ralliart. did the timing chain and rebuilt the head 10k miles ago.

1. I have a boost pill, do I leave this ?

2. I have a stock air box, I want an upgrade, but I dont want to move my battery to the trunk. will the ralliart AEM intake work if I get the right size coupler ? or if anyone has a better suggestion please chime in.

3. I have a 50/50 aftermarket adjustable BOV. is this ok to leave in place ? if not ralliart BPV or evo X ?
If anyone else has any tips or advice for this swap its much appreciated.
I have the tactrix cable and im running a tune right now, but I will obviously have this retuned when this is all complete. I just want to know if I need to order any more parts before I start. Thanks for your help in advance! I cant wait to get this done.

DWILSON357

iTrader: (1)

1:If you run EBCS you will need to remove it, regardless of if you leave it or go EBCS you will need to make sure your tune matches whichever configuration you run.
2:This has been answered elsewhere, I forget the exact outcome, but from what I understand, you are going to spend more money than what it is worth, it is not just an RA intake you'll need.
3itch it if you mean its 50/50 VTA. You will have nothing but headaches, and potentially blow your motor with the extra boost your getting now. A stock Evo X BPV is perfectly acceptable for what you are doing.

SharkyPR

iTrader: (1)

1. Get a EBCS. Much better control of boost you wont regret it and isn't expensive
2. This thread (https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/09...arts-list.html) has the answers. You can use the stock box or any intake as long you get the proper coupler. CBRD sells an intake for ralliart with the EVOX turbo (http://www.cbrdspeedfactory.com/cbrd...-turbocharger/)
3. Never heard of someone blowing a motor on a 4B11T because they had a 50/50 BOV. Worse case set it to full recirc and problem solved.

prozak

Thanks, I will look into EBCS.. and remove the pill.. Cobb 3 port on the way

Edit .... I reread that thread and think it confused me more.. some people saying you just need a coupler but the evo X one needs to be modified ? is there a part number for the coupler that I need for the stock RA intake to work ? I see that the stock air box is sufficient and I dont want to move the battery. everyone has a different opinion on which route to go here. is the coupler just a 2.5 to 3" type ( guessing on size) or is it something way more involved ? I saw a picture of the evo x next to the RA one and they are very different, so something would have to be modified. I cant get the pic on here, but its post #107 on the swap thread, is that what i need ? sorry if this is annoying i Just want to be 100% sure i have everything correct before i start. I like the CBRD intake, so i may go that route but if I can just get a coupler, ill do that as my first choice.

and yes 50/50 VTA.... havent had any issues with it on my current tune, but I can just plug it or use an evo BPV ... now where did I put that plug ??? lol

THanks for the input guys..

Joe Diegoli

Did you get this resolved for the evo x swap as i need a tune for mine now

prozak

Yes I did get this all sorted out, but there was multiple things to work out. what specifically do you need to know ?

1: On my intake I went with the CBRD intake for evo X swap. bolts right up. tight fit with the battery in the stock location but doable.

2: Boost pill was removed, Cobb 3 port was added, and i changed my tune accordingly.

3: the BOV, who ever said you can blow your engine running a 50/50 VTA is slightly slow. Obviously they dont know how the plumbing works, and I didnt either when I posted the question. However, having built the car now and learning about it, the only thing VTA will do is cause the car to run rich or possible stall ( IF AND ONLY IF) you dont tune it for it. I ended up swapping over to TephraxmodV3 and running speed density tuning, and now my car is 100% VTA with zero issues.

4. I started chasing a fuel problem and ended up swapping to larger injectors (1000cc), and AEM 320 fuel pump. I also installed a 4" FMIC, used a equal length tubular header, high flow cat, wide mouth downpipe, and full 3" exhaust out the back.

5: I flashed my TCU with the EVO X MR files, which gave me S-Sport mode, which is amazing. Now i have the spark cut patch and launch control, the car launches incredibly.

6: I took some tuning classes and tuned my car my self, which took months to learn and get right, but I am very glad I did this now I can make any changes and tune them myself.

Right now the car is making 331 WHP but the clutches are starting to slip. 148,XXX miles. If I send the trans out for the 500-600hp clutch pack, I will also go larger on the turbo, but for now im leaving it alone as my daily driver.
I picked up a 1957 Chevy LS car to mess with, so my RA has taken a back seat for now.

Joe Diegoli

Wow thanks for a fast reaponse im running vta also but no tune for it and i havent had any problems weird? I did just get a fuel lean code yesterday for first time after running it for 2 months now i truely wish i could use you tune for my evo x swap lol musta been hard to get it to speed density im praying for 350 when i install turbo you answered alot of my questions but i do have 1 qhat fuel tables did you have to change for speed density

prozak

tuning for speed density is more work with the MAF scale, map and MAF calc tables and I also did some Volumetric efficiency tuning (fuel calibration table) basically if you max out the MAF scale the ECU will be forced to use the MaP calc table. Eliminating the MAF from the equation let’s you VTA with no issues. It can’t cause any harm to VTA. It will cause a rich reading if anything. Which can’t do anything but maybe effect your plugs someday. I may go with a slightly bigger cam. Would be nice to have 350 WHP. But for a daily driver it’s great as it is. If you have the means I may be able to help you with an E tune. At least get you a decent base map. Anyway good luck.

Joe Diegoli

If you could i woukd appricaite it so much i really would ihave everything for tuning open source

Joe Diegoli

Hey bud did you ever get your car dialed in im now at tuning stage my self

SharkyPR

iTrader: (1)

The SST is very sensitive to boost. You will notice that it will drive rough. More than normal.
In my case VTA introduces windows of clutch slippage even on S-Sport. For that reason I don't do it.

prozak

yes I got it dialed in. Car runs and drives excellent.
there’s some videos and sound clips on IG. If you want to hear.

prozak

this must be a tuning thing. Because I tuned my SST and went speed density / VTA. I plumbed my car recirculated, 50/50 and full VTA. Made no difference in drivability because it’s a MAF issue. And my car isn’t using it. Maybe some people have issues. I do not. I don’t see any clutch slippage windows except for under WOT at 24 psi because my clutch has 150k miles on it. And it was 10 times worse before the s-sport and teach in. The s-sport fixed my clutch slippage 95%. I turned my boost down to 22psi and the slippage is gone. Next step is a trans rebuild with some 600hp clutches.

prozak

Here’s. Video of just messing around in the snow. Car does good. Spools good. Good throttle response.

Joe Diegoli

Awesome video were you still willing to help ny get mine tuned id make a donation thats for sure