09 RA 4b11 vs NA 4b11 Differences?
 

Hi Everyone,

Does anyone have any detailed diagrams or an explanation of the differences between a NA 4b11 and the 4b11 used in the ralliart? The reason I ask is because I bought my car from a dealer here in canada and I'm having performance related issues. I found that the engine was either rebuilt or swapped and am now suspecting that the engine swapped into my RA is a NA 4b11 engine thats been tuned to operate like the 4b11t.

First of all, does the RA feature the exact same 4b11t like the X? Second, would I notice any major differences between the two engines if my engine is indeed a swap? I noticed that my oil dip stick is pushed in towards the head by about 1.2 inches closer than other evo/ra engines and found that it's just like a NA 4b11. It's impossible to tell whether the engine is original because I can't actually reach the VIN plate without pulling the engine out... which I can't afford for a while. I've involved omvic and built a case on my possible engine swap and that went nowhere.

I should point out that if there aren't any major differences, then I'll just stick with the car. I'm just afraid that if I decide to use a GST tune for the boost pill, that the ECU obviously wont expect a "tuned" NA lancer engine and make my life much much worse. I play to rebuild the engine, but not soon and I NEED TO KNOW what I can do and what my options are. How can I tell in a quick way whether I have a boosted NA engine or an actual 4b11t??

Any advice is appreciated, please help:crap:

Thanks,

Rob

The 4B11T in the RA is the same 4B11T in the Evo X. The 4B11 NA only shares like 5% of the components with the 4B11T. I would pull out the spark plugs and check the part number and hopefully it can give you a quick answer.

4B11 NA

4B11T

Hook up a boost gauge if it was just a quick job then it'd only be running several psi of boost I'd assume.

Rob, have you actually logged the car with a tactrix cable to see what the hell if anything is wrong with it?

Do you have a tactrix cable?

NEWB

Thanks szuto.

The car drives normal and I've logged with ScanXL and a few others. It drives fine besides a faulty MAF, causing the engine to lean out.. This is the second one thats dead I'm guessing. I replaced the first one with a used one from a scrap yard and it must be going out soon now too. I'm using an OEM air filter because the drop in must have killed the first MAF

Basically, i'm just looking for technical information because some of the parts of my engine are not stock and I'm looking for a direct comparison on parts. I wasnt aware the NA engine pulled a lot less boost, I'm pulling 20-21 right now. Thats a start. I just ordered a tactrix cable and my SST fluid/filter is on the way, we'll see if that improves the performance as well.

I'm just not knowledgable of exact differences of some of the components so I know what to look for when I start taking her apart in the spring. I've worked on NA cars growing up and as a hobby, I should have made that clear.

My RA is stock turbod and its new/rebuilt. When I was sold the car, the engine showed obvious signs of tampering and it was suspected to be rebuilt. It was used and hidden during the sale. I wasn't concerned buying what I thought was a LEGIT car. I started having hesitation problems and by the time I realized the engine was rebuilt/swapped, I couldnt do anything about it except get a lawyer.

check the back of the cylinder head rite below the valve cover on the passenger side facing rear, it should read 4b11T #2

Thanks again. I searched for the plate and it is not on the engine. I don't think I have many options here.

@mirage, ill check as soon as I can. Ill get back to you

He plugs I pulled out were NGK ilkr7e6. The manual states the 8e6 plugs but there's really no difference between the two from what I can tell. I replaced with 8e6

they might have put in one step colder plugs due to an evo x swap, then probably returned it to stock to sell off...just an idea?

Makes perfect sense. The turbo inlet hose was practically falling off it was so loose and the bottom of the stock intake box was broken. Obviously modified and sold back to th dealer. They didnt bother inspecting before selling it either

So I figured out that my issue was totally related to my MAF sensor. The car is totally different now and operates great! No more shift hesitation, 99% less slipping in 1st gear from a stop, no more random clutch engagement and disengagement while slowing down at a light in D.

Until this afternoon.

Last night I took the car out and had no problems at all and the car sat in the driveway for 7 hours before I took it out again this morning to go to work. We had a terribly wet blizzard last night there was over a foot of snow burying everything. The drive in to work was good, no issues. After work nearly 13 hours later, I warmed the car until the temp reading had two ticks and then went on my way. I noticed some differences from the morning drive right away. The car was hesitating on shifting and accelerating in all gears for 1-1.5 seconds before the car really picked up. When it did pick up, the pull was a bit harder than usual.. The drive home was nearly 30 minutes too, so the engine had time to warm up, but the symptoms did not change at all.

When I got home, I let the car sit for over an hour. When I took it out again just now, the car was driving perfectly again... what could be the cause of this!?!? Is it possible I have a bad ground or a bad wire somewhere that's throwing off some sensor data? Could it be a dying o2 sensor? A friend told me that carbon build up and/or it's age will cause it to start to become sluggish.. but wouldn't I see a consistent problem?? Also, would a bad ground be a consistent problem or a random problem?? I'm going to do some logging soon. Other than the random annoyance posted above, the car drives perfect.