NASTYxNAT3

great write up. took long enough hahah

wouldnt it be easier to use a line-in/line-out converter? oh and more info on how'd you did your remote wire please.

03chi-town0Z

iTrader: (7)

enough room to fit my daughter's stroller when needed. and it comes out quite easily actually, everything is kinda interlocked so once you know what youre doing it all comes right out after you unscrew the subs and disconnect some wiring...

03chi-town0Z

iTrader: (7)

yeah, i know it took awhile, life is crazy, at least i got it done eventually...

not sure what you mean about the converter though? i used a loc on my install, just put it back behind the headunit and ran the rca wires from there. i think there's something im just not getting here if you're saying what i think youre saying, or maybe not? lol.

i'll dig for the explanation i gave on running a fuse-tap somewhere on here already. that way i'll just copy it here and throw some pics up, hopefully sometime within the next year or so...

NASTYxNAT3

opps nevermind i meant LineOut Converter aka (Loc), sorry. and you did you use one in post #2. haha man i feel stupid.

but yeah if you could post that within next millennium that would great!

Frylock

sorry to ask but is the wiring the same on a navi head unit ?

SPSERG

iTrader: (1)

When I installed my after-market amp, I used a Kenwood model that has a built in line converter and remote trigger. Essentially, the speaker level inputs trigger the power- no additional wiring needed. Just a thought, but it sounds great and it turns on and off with the factory radio...

I stuffed this one under the drivers side seat, on the factory amp mounting plate that I bought from the dealer. Only had to tap the speaker wires and run 1 hot wire to the battery.



http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Kenwood+...&skuId=9763215

03chi-town0Z

iTrader: (7)

If you are just looking to run an upgraded amp for more/bigger subs, then it should be nearly the same, though I'd have to double check wire colors for the LOC install because they are probably different.

Frylock

Ok subscribedlmk if you figure anything out

newmitsuowner

quick question. i have some subs/box, amps. no wires for it though , i gave them awway when i pulled it out of my older vehicle. dont ask lol. anyways, we've chatted before on here but, since you know your way around, would i need a better alternator. could i take it to the dealer for them to instal to keep the warranty intact?

03chi-town0Z

iTrader: (7)

I wouldn't bother with a new alternator unless you're really pushing some huge power. What are you planning on running exactly?

sirsleepsalot

Ok, I don't know if it's me who's blind or what, but I can't seem to find where to route the power cable into the passenger compartment. I've tried finding a grommet somewhere in the firewall, but can't really find anything big enough to pass 0AWG wire through it. Any thoughts ?

nmilsaps

iTrader: (2)

Nice write up...
Would a bass bazooka tube work similar?

03chi-town0Z

iTrader: (7)

If you don't want to cut up the grommet where the hood cable runs through, you can always route down the back of the fender, under the side-skirt, and up through one of the floor grommets.

I don't see why not. Just needs power, ground, remote, and RCA's right?

nmilsaps

iTrader: (2)

Finally getting around to this... can you help me out?
I'm splicing into the back of the radio and need help locating a few wires and their colors.

+12v constant of the headunit
And
Switched +12v source (usually the amplifier remote of the headunit?)

I'm assuming red for the constant power...

03chi-town0Z

iTrader: (7)

Why do you need 12v constant? I'm not familiar why that would be necessary as the 12v usually is run direct from the battery with large gauge wiring.

The switched 12v for remote I actually sourced directly at the interior distribution block (fusebox) with a fuse tap on the radio fuse