How To Replace Exhaust Manifold
 

*Disclaimer* This is how I did it. I can't know your ability - so be careful - working on cars can be dangerous. If in doubt, spend the ~$1,200 at the dealership to have them do it. You are warned!


So your exhaust manifold is cracked. Sounds like azz at start up. Smells like exhaust in the cabin.


Preparation:
1. Buy stuff. Buy replacement manifold. OEM is the only option. No aftermarket improved manifold to-date for us, only for EVO X... I bought from lancershop.com. They had decent prices and also had the manifold to head gasket and manifold to turbo housing gasket that you need. Also get two more manifold to turbo housing OEM Incononel[tm] bolts. You will use these in place of the two studs/nuts.


2. Take car to an exhaust shop/machine shop/garage and have them remove the two nuts/studs on the manifold-to turbo housing. Pay them whatever it costs and like it. You "could" remove them yourself using the two nuts jammed together method - but may get only one out and still have to have the other stud drilled out anyway... I did. :crap: It only cost $120 and well worth it! Have the shop install the two new bolts you bought in place of the studs and re-use the OEM washers.


Also have the shop remove and re-install the two other bolts - just to make your life easier. The turbo really heat-cycles the bolts and with 100K miles on the engine they were really tight...


Tools/Other:
1. High temp/copper anti-seize.
2. 10mm socket & short extension for heat shield bolts.
3. 14mm socket (I used 1/4" drive breaker bar and ratchet).
4. 14mm 1/2" drive with long extension and breaker bar.


Procedure:
1. Loosen (but do not remove) those recently installed manifold to housing bolts.
2. Remove manifold to head nuts and washers. You can access all of them from on top of the engine. You will reach under the manifold to get the bottom nuts. I needed a deep socket on the end of a long extension to gain more leverage break some loose.

Thanks for the right up. There is more than one way to skin a cat! If I went by all the how-tos, it wold have taken me half a day to swap my alternator LOL.
Curious: why did you remove the studs?

See pix. One with the ring, one without.


3. Remove the four bolts to the turbo housing.
4. Set up a rig to "push down" the turbo housing to get the metal "ring" between the turbo and the manifold. This ring is all that prevents you from sliding the manifold off the engine. I used the C-Clamp and a long 1/2" extension. I would use grip tape around the bar to help hold the clamp/keep it from slipping. Do not use your fingers to remove the ring and gasket - the clamp could slip and mash yer fingers (forcing you to remove your shoes to count to ten from here on out).
5. Remove manifold and head gasket.
6. Install new gasket to head.
7. Install new manifold.
8. Install new turbo housing gasket and re-use the metal ring.
9. Remove whatever is pushing/holding the turbo housing down.
10. Apply anti-seize to all bolts and ensure washers are installed with the "little holes" marked on them facing away from the head of the bolt (so you can see the "holes" as you install the bolts hand-tight).
11. Apply anti-seize to the head studs and install washer and nuts hand tight.

12. Torque the head nuts starting from the center nuts in an "X" (cross) pattern to evenly seat the gasket and manifold. You will need to torque them at least three times until you can't tighten them anymore. 65 ft/lbs. IIRC
13. Torque the housing bolts in an "X" pattern. 120 ft/lbs. IIRC
14. Re-install heat shield using anti-seize on the bolts.


Run and listen for leaks.

The studs are why (by the :mitsu: manual) the turbo/downpipe and brackets have to all come off to remove the manifold... You could not push the turbo/housing down enough to clear the studs.


Removal of the studs and the pushing the housing down to get the metal ring out is the "secret sauce" to doing this easily and quickly. {thumbup}

Alternate method to create enough room to remove the ring (thanks to "Scootypuff86"):
I followed this turbo install guide to find the bolt: http://www.atpturbo.com/root/help/pd...structions.pdf

Find the small steel bracket that connects the
turbine housing to the engine block. Remove
the bolt into the turbine housing. This bolt is
accessible from underneath the vehicle, and
is visible between the passenger-side
driveshaft and the oil pan. Leave the bracket
attached to the engine block. This part will be
reused (1 bolt, 14mm socket, extension, ujoint).
Attached Images https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/at...bbing-bolt.png

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Makes sense. That's the same reason I cut down the studs on my transmission LOL. And true.. my turbo or mani would come out a lot easier without the studs. Thanks for the reply.
I didn't realize you were in the middle of a right up. Please have a mod remove my posts.

To clarify: Buy four new bolts (not studs/nuts). Because of the high temps - you want new ones - to ensure they don't fail you in few years... Part number: http://www.mitsubishipartswarehouse....-assembly-bolt

Thanks for the write-up. I was going to do this myself but a place by my work quoted me 385$ for the labor. This seems like a good deal.