My GFB although not set to 100% vta, more like 20% ran fine. Takes a bit of time to tune it. Holds boost well, no complaints here. Im getting sick of the whoosh whoosh too so Im selling it and switched to the jdm mr bov.

 

And like I said before.. of all the solutions out there, you might find the HKS SSQV to idle the best (but venting will still cause a rich condition that can usually cause a off-throttle lift related stall at low RPMs) It just doesn't really make it right, or solve the problem, but since the HKS is closed at idle, you won't experience the problems associated with other valves that remain partially open at idle.. The only bad news, if your engine draws alot of vacuum, even the HKS may be partially open (the little valve) That is why it works ok on some cars, not so great on others, and your choice of vacuum source and line size can have an impact.

 

well im sorry if i was wrong about all turbo charged cars being designed with the intent of the access pressure going back into the system, but i know the evo was. not only that but my diverter valve is loud as ****. so for the extra little bit of sound that u are getting with vta , its not worth the performance chance u are taking.

 

I agree with you 100%

The only reason I pointed it out was because I've been doing this over 20 years, have had grandnationals, and worked on earlier OE turbo cars and conversions where you'd typically see 5psi of boost max.. etc.. Many didn't even have DV/BOV's at all..

 

I need to get a valve that wont leak pressure (pull type design) but will recirculate. Is the HKS SSBOV the only one that uses the Pull type design? Malibu Jack what way did you hook yours up when you were recirculating? There is not a really good way to do it, unless you use the recirc kit from a 2G DSM but the tube outlet is 1" O.D. We need 1.25" O.D. tube to fit on the Evo. I have seen people using hoses on top of the recirc outlet tube to increase the diameter up to 1.25", but to me that is a "Mickey Mouse" way of doing it. I have an HKS SSBOV that I want to use, but cant find a good way to use it.

Brian

 

I hooked it up basically similarly to the "mickey mouse" way, I used about a 1" section of the 1" hose, then the 1.25 hose over that, and clamped it down, its not a high-pressure area so it won't leak or pop off, if you want something that will never give you trouble, get rubber adhesive and slip the 1" piece into the 1.25 hose and let it cure/vulcanize before you use it.. then you can clean it up and make it look more professional (Its sadly pretty common practice for adapting minor size differences and I find it all the time on aftermarket/gates hoses for other applications)

Fortunately it won't hurt anything, the only concern is a minor leak might draw unmetered/unfiltered air into the intake pipe, so thats the only thing you would watch for. The first time i had it installed, I just clamped the **** out of it so it stayed in place, but I wasn't concerned about metered air since it was on a blowthrough setup.

 

MalibuJack what about the APS bov?

 

I used to have the Forge BOV and it sucks! It idle really low after a strong pull and stall a couple time. Swith to Forge DV and it was great. No prob. so far. VTA doesnt run very well on MAF....

 

Since I don't have any personal experience with the APS BOV, I can't give you my opinion on it. However as long as its capable of recirculation, and can be adjusted properly, it should work fine.

The two biggest problems with any sort of BOV (either recirculated or not) is not being adjusted correctly (See an earlier portion of this post) and inadequate vacuum signal to actuate the BOV given the settings.. This is besides the negative issues with venting a BOV with a MAF equipped car.

as long as the APS has the ability to be adjusted so under vacuum, it opens easily you will have good drivability, and as long as it can vent an adequate amount of air back into the intake pipe, it will not have drivability issues (Stalling or stumbling, or rich conditions between shifts and on letting off the gas)

There is one other issue when your dealing with BOV's that most people overlook, they need to vent ENOUGH of the excess pressure fast enough between shifts to prevent the pressure from sneaking past the throttle blade or idle bypass circuit, which will result in the RPM's raising between shifts at part throttle, a poorly adjusted BOV (or a stocker installed backwards) is the biggest culprit of this problem. So you need to choose a BOV that can vent adequate air for the size oriface, and the valve needs to remain open long enough to vent the pressure (adjustment)

 

Not to revive an old Post but this morning on the 5 south in socal, a 05 tarmac black evo with a TXS RFL was constantly making the damn thing go off for attention. still had the registration on the window, meaning his first mod was? you got it a BOV. I have since changed my opinion of EVOLUTION rice and BOV VTA = RICE. Sorry but hearing a loud PSSH sound isnt fun when your stalling at stop signs

 

anyone have any experiences with the blitz bov?

 

I guess my car is rice then when I make big boost and don't want BOV problems I will stick with my tial thank you very much. Hrmm what do all the big hp turbo cars run? I will say that my bov doesn't vent loudly unless more than 14psi is being built up though. Point being there are uses for VTA bovs. But if you insist it's rice I'll have my 11 second rice then.

 

Yep.. Remember this thread started as somewhat of a question.. Most cars don't legitimately need to VTA in most circumstances, there are those of us through removing the stock MAF as a side-effect CAN run vta with no issues because we don't use a stock MAF any longer. However, at that point, the reason a particular BOV is used is for performance reasons not sound, and that is a different circumstance. Its the people who do it for the sound, and are willing to sacrifice their car's wellbeing or performance is when it would be "Rice"

Technically, my valve is running VTA, however my primary reason for running it was because it holds the pressure I run, the sound was something I grew to tolerate. But the technology I use, allows me to run my valve either vented or not, I installed the technology to improve the car's performance and ability to tune it, the side-effect was it places the MAF sensor after the BOV, and therefore its immune to the detrimental effects..

With all that said, I still don't like the sound, and still joke about it.

 

I had the blitz and i was running vta, didnt have problems.

 

Don't you have driveability problem especially at partial throttle? I had to adjust the valve stiff enough to hold boost, but then it hurts its drivability.
In fact, I made myself a recirculate adaptor to work on our car... it's mickey mouse, but it works.