photography 411...
photography 411...
i know there a bunch of really good photographers on here, i just got a cannon E0S rebel G from the pawn shop to mess around with.
i was wondering if u guys could fill me in on the basic lingo and some tips on photography, like apeture, ISO, shutter speed and when to use them. kinda off topic but im gonna use it mostly to take pictures of the evo. thanks!
i was wondering if u guys could fill me in on the basic lingo and some tips on photography, like apeture, ISO, shutter speed and when to use them. kinda off topic but im gonna use it mostly to take pictures of the evo. thanks!
Vegasboy, been lookin' at your photography, and you got a good eye (but I'm sure you hear that enough...) I work as a photographer, and thought I might toss some pointers your way, take it or leave it!
First thing, is depth of field. use it. an object will be in focus at a certain distance from your lens to a second distance from your lens. i.e. you have your camera such that an object will be in focus from 20-22 feet from the lense. apart from that, everything will be out of focus.
SHOOT IN RAW (you'll need photoshop CS2 if you do though...PM me if you need "help")
wide aperture (low F stop) = narrow depth of field, lower contrast
narrow aperture (high F stop) = wide depth of field, higher contrast
fast shutterspeed = less motion blur due to shaking, less color saturation
slow shutterspeed = more motion blur due to shaking, more color saturation
of course, you always have to balance shutterspeed and aperture to fine tune your exposure!
Depending on your metering mode and the lighting, and the subject, etc, I find the XT has a tendancy to want to over expose a hair. hit play, and hit info twice so you're looking at a thumbnail of the shot, and the histogram. Make sure nothing important is blinking black in the thumbnail (blown out highlights), and your histogram falls nicely between the left and right border. Keeping the peaks in the histogram below the top is nice too, but not as important. Use your exposure compensation to compensate if not shooting fully manual.
Don't shoot with shutterspeed longer than 1/60th if handheld and shooting stationary objects.
Don't shoot higher than ISO400 if you can at all avoid it. The lower the better.
Shooting in RAW will allow you to fix white-balance and minor over/under exposure, plus it'll leave far more information when doing some saturation/contrast/sharpening post processing.
If you get your hands on CS2, you have an amazing tool at your hands...the merge to HDR feature. Normal film (and your XT) has a 5-stop range (that is, it can see light and dark that are approximately 10 F-settings apart). The natural world and the human eye are FAR more capable than that, and merging photos to HDR increases your picture range to upwards of 8 stops....more than most monitors can show!
To do this, make SURE you're using a tripod. Vary ONLY the shutter speed. not the ISO, not the aperture. Take 5 - 7 shots of the same stationary scene..the whole range from SUPER over exposed to SUPER under exposed, and everything in between. File > automate > merge to HDR, select the files, and VIOLA! amazing shot, with rich detail from high to low.
I'm sure I'll think of more tips as I go, and I'll try to post 'em up!
First thing, is depth of field. use it. an object will be in focus at a certain distance from your lens to a second distance from your lens. i.e. you have your camera such that an object will be in focus from 20-22 feet from the lense. apart from that, everything will be out of focus.
SHOOT IN RAW (you'll need photoshop CS2 if you do though...PM me if you need "help")
wide aperture (low F stop) = narrow depth of field, lower contrast
narrow aperture (high F stop) = wide depth of field, higher contrast
fast shutterspeed = less motion blur due to shaking, less color saturation
slow shutterspeed = more motion blur due to shaking, more color saturation
of course, you always have to balance shutterspeed and aperture to fine tune your exposure!
Depending on your metering mode and the lighting, and the subject, etc, I find the XT has a tendancy to want to over expose a hair. hit play, and hit info twice so you're looking at a thumbnail of the shot, and the histogram. Make sure nothing important is blinking black in the thumbnail (blown out highlights), and your histogram falls nicely between the left and right border. Keeping the peaks in the histogram below the top is nice too, but not as important. Use your exposure compensation to compensate if not shooting fully manual.
Don't shoot with shutterspeed longer than 1/60th if handheld and shooting stationary objects.
Don't shoot higher than ISO400 if you can at all avoid it. The lower the better.
Shooting in RAW will allow you to fix white-balance and minor over/under exposure, plus it'll leave far more information when doing some saturation/contrast/sharpening post processing.
If you get your hands on CS2, you have an amazing tool at your hands...the merge to HDR feature. Normal film (and your XT) has a 5-stop range (that is, it can see light and dark that are approximately 10 F-settings apart). The natural world and the human eye are FAR more capable than that, and merging photos to HDR increases your picture range to upwards of 8 stops....more than most monitors can show!
To do this, make SURE you're using a tripod. Vary ONLY the shutter speed. not the ISO, not the aperture. Take 5 - 7 shots of the same stationary scene..the whole range from SUPER over exposed to SUPER under exposed, and everything in between. File > automate > merge to HDR, select the files, and VIOLA! amazing shot, with rich detail from high to low.
I'm sure I'll think of more tips as I go, and I'll try to post 'em up!
some more basic terms:
Aperture - how wide the iris in the lense opens. low F-stop = wide aperture
shutterspeed - how fast the reflex mirror flips up and down, exposing the film
ISO - the sensativity of the film/digital sensor. Low ISO means it needs more light to expose, high ISO means you get more noise in the picture
Aperture - how wide the iris in the lense opens. low F-stop = wide aperture
shutterspeed - how fast the reflex mirror flips up and down, exposing the film
ISO - the sensativity of the film/digital sensor. Low ISO means it needs more light to expose, high ISO means you get more noise in the picture
nice info, but a few questions, what is ISO? how do u balance aperture and shutter speed?
ok and one more thing, lets say i put the shutter speed pretty slow and i place it to where it views the tach, i rev it and take a picture, will the needle look blurred like its moving up? thanks
edit, u beat me to some questions
ok and one more thing, lets say i put the shutter speed pretty slow and i place it to where it views the tach, i rev it and take a picture, will the needle look blurred like its moving up? thanks
edit, u beat me to some questions
Originally Posted by JSYEVO
nice info, but a few questions, what is ISO? how do u balance aperture and shutter speed?
ok and one more thing, lets say i put the shutter speed pretty slow and i place it to where it views the tach, i rev it and take a picture, will the needle look blurred like its moving up? thanks
edit, u beat me to some questions
ok and one more thing, lets say i put the shutter speed pretty slow and i place it to where it views the tach, i rev it and take a picture, will the needle look blurred like its moving up? thanks
edit, u beat me to some questions
Last edited by I'mStock; Oct 26, 2005 at 06:50 PM.
Originally Posted by JSYEVO
nice info, but a few questions, what is ISO? how do u balance aperture and shutter speed?
ok and one more thing, lets say i put the shutter speed pretty slow and i place it to where it views the tach, i rev it and take a picture, will the needle look blurred like its moving up? thanks
edit, u beat me to some questions
ok and one more thing, lets say i put the shutter speed pretty slow and i place it to where it views the tach, i rev it and take a picture, will the needle look blurred like its moving up? thanks
edit, u beat me to some questions
If you want to do the low shutterspeed, rev the tach thing, the best way to do it is to set the camera up on a tripod (either in the drivers seat, or outside the drivers open door) and zoom in on the tach to compose the frame that you want. Set it to a long shutterspeed, adjust the aperture to get the exposure you want, press click and rev the engine!
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haha i think im going to desert demons this sunday night. ill make sure to take my camera.
what should i do to take pictures at night like in downtown to make the lights downtown shine a lot, what shutter speed and aperture should i use to make it so that u can see the car good too?
what should i do to take pictures at night like in downtown to make the lights downtown shine a lot, what shutter speed and aperture should i use to make it so that u can see the car good too?
night shots are hard....shutterspeed is the most important, because a blurry shot is unusable. If nobody's moving very fast, and you have a steady hand, set it to 1/50th sec. preferrably 1/60th or higher. Open your aperture all the way up (lowest possible F-stop). Play with the ISO to get the exposure you want.
If you have a tri-pod and a stationary scene (parked cars, no people, etc), set up the tri-pod, set the aperture to get a good DoF, lower the ISO a bunch, and shoot with a long shutterspeed to get the exposure you want.
If you have a tri-pod and a stationary scene (parked cars, no people, etc), set up the tri-pod, set the aperture to get a good DoF, lower the ISO a bunch, and shoot with a long shutterspeed to get the exposure you want.
Originally Posted by Zemo
Vegasboy, been lookin' at your photography, and you got a good eye (but I'm sure you hear that enough...) I work as a photographer, and thought I might toss some pointers your way, take it or leave it!
First thing, is depth of field. use it. an object will be in focus at a certain distance from your lens to a second distance from your lens. i.e. you have your camera such that an object will be in focus from 20-22 feet from the lense. apart from that, everything will be out of focus.
SHOOT IN RAW (you'll need photoshop CS2 if you do though...PM me if you need "help")
wide aperture (low F stop) = narrow depth of field, lower contrast
narrow aperture (high F stop) = wide depth of field, higher contrast
fast shutterspeed = less motion blur due to shaking, less color saturation
slow shutterspeed = more motion blur due to shaking, more color saturation
of course, you always have to balance shutterspeed and aperture to fine tune your exposure!
Depending on your metering mode and the lighting, and the subject, etc, I find the XT has a tendancy to want to over expose a hair. hit play, and hit info twice so you're looking at a thumbnail of the shot, and the histogram. Make sure nothing important is blinking black in the thumbnail (blown out highlights), and your histogram falls nicely between the left and right border. Keeping the peaks in the histogram below the top is nice too, but not as important. Use your exposure compensation to compensate if not shooting fully manual.
Don't shoot with shutterspeed longer than 1/60th if handheld and shooting stationary objects.
Don't shoot higher than ISO400 if you can at all avoid it. The lower the better.
Shooting in RAW will allow you to fix white-balance and minor over/under exposure, plus it'll leave far more information when doing some saturation/contrast/sharpening post processing.
If you get your hands on CS2, you have an amazing tool at your hands...the merge to HDR feature. Normal film (and your XT) has a 5-stop range (that is, it can see light and dark that are approximately 10 F-settings apart). The natural world and the human eye are FAR more capable than that, and merging photos to HDR increases your picture range to upwards of 8 stops....more than most monitors can show!
To do this, make SURE you're using a tripod. Vary ONLY the shutter speed. not the ISO, not the aperture. Take 5 - 7 shots of the same stationary scene..the whole range from SUPER over exposed to SUPER under exposed, and everything in between. File > automate > merge to HDR, select the files, and VIOLA! amazing shot, with rich detail from high to low.
I'm sure I'll think of more tips as I go, and I'll try to post 'em up!
First thing, is depth of field. use it. an object will be in focus at a certain distance from your lens to a second distance from your lens. i.e. you have your camera such that an object will be in focus from 20-22 feet from the lense. apart from that, everything will be out of focus.
SHOOT IN RAW (you'll need photoshop CS2 if you do though...PM me if you need "help")
wide aperture (low F stop) = narrow depth of field, lower contrast
narrow aperture (high F stop) = wide depth of field, higher contrast
fast shutterspeed = less motion blur due to shaking, less color saturation
slow shutterspeed = more motion blur due to shaking, more color saturation
of course, you always have to balance shutterspeed and aperture to fine tune your exposure!
Depending on your metering mode and the lighting, and the subject, etc, I find the XT has a tendancy to want to over expose a hair. hit play, and hit info twice so you're looking at a thumbnail of the shot, and the histogram. Make sure nothing important is blinking black in the thumbnail (blown out highlights), and your histogram falls nicely between the left and right border. Keeping the peaks in the histogram below the top is nice too, but not as important. Use your exposure compensation to compensate if not shooting fully manual.
Don't shoot with shutterspeed longer than 1/60th if handheld and shooting stationary objects.
Don't shoot higher than ISO400 if you can at all avoid it. The lower the better.
Shooting in RAW will allow you to fix white-balance and minor over/under exposure, plus it'll leave far more information when doing some saturation/contrast/sharpening post processing.
If you get your hands on CS2, you have an amazing tool at your hands...the merge to HDR feature. Normal film (and your XT) has a 5-stop range (that is, it can see light and dark that are approximately 10 F-settings apart). The natural world and the human eye are FAR more capable than that, and merging photos to HDR increases your picture range to upwards of 8 stops....more than most monitors can show!
To do this, make SURE you're using a tripod. Vary ONLY the shutter speed. not the ISO, not the aperture. Take 5 - 7 shots of the same stationary scene..the whole range from SUPER over exposed to SUPER under exposed, and everything in between. File > automate > merge to HDR, select the files, and VIOLA! amazing shot, with rich detail from high to low.
I'm sure I'll think of more tips as I go, and I'll try to post 'em up!
yup, higher ISO means the film or image sensor is more sensative to light, which means it exposes faster. faster shutterspeeds and narrower apertures can be used. But the tradeoff is noise.


