I ordered these spaces in 15mm.

http://www.mackinindustries.com/wm/k...eadspacer.html



I don't think there will be any shimmy problems with these sucksers

 

You are correct I was thinking of the RC5, sorry guys.

 

Do they come with a hub-centric ring on the ID in the Evo application? If they don't, be careful to get the wheel centered when mounting. Otherwise, you could have a problem with shimmy and vibration. Personally, I would've just gone with a standard spacer that longer studs go all the way through...these studs are only in a piece of (I'm assuming) aluminum alloy of some sort that is not even .75" thick. But Mackin is also not known for making junk...I guess we'll see how they hold up.

What size tire are you going to run?

Can't wait for pics on the car... I know what baby's Easter present is going to be...Yes, I buy my car presents. She gets jealous of the girlfriend.

 

yes they have a hubcentric ring for these spaces. I ordered those as well. i was a little skeptical about the way these work but freaking mackin makes them. hopefully they will be here this week.

 

Yes Robi has a lot of experience with Enkeis. I spoke to him before I got the 17x 9.5s

I believe these PRF1s sizes have the big front brake clearance spokes:

17x8.5
18x8.5
18x9.5s

 

Right ON!

 

Cool color rims.

I finally put my H&R 15mm spacers on Sunday and the spokes are close to the brakes. I would like 1mm more. I will test the 15mms under severe loads next weekend. You may want to hold off on the 15mm until then, the 20mm .80" would have a lot of clearance as my current .75" have plenty. Also tirerack sent 3mm ones with SSR rims a while ago that could work with your hub centric parts.

I had originally planned to buy some from wheeladapter.com which a lot of the evo track guys use with enkeis. Hubcentric, prob a custom 17mm thickness, $ the same as H&Rs and experience with Evo spacers for Enkeis. I believe nils has them, maybe Robi has seen them.

Some info I copied from another thread:

"Spacers are not always going to increase the cantilever load on the hub/studs, it depends on the wheeloffset. If you use them to move out wheels with a stock offset, then yes the load is moved out. If you usespacers to fit a wider wheel and / or a non-stock offset, the relation ship of the wheel's contact surface center to the hub geometry will ideally remain unchanged (or you are growing wider both out of and into thewheel well).

You can use 3 mm spacers (or less) without longer studs. H&R recommends longer studs (and inlcudes them) with any spacer 5 mm and up. Replacing studs is not hard (I did mine in 10 min per hub). However, if you want pure bolt on, use Eibach instead of H&R - they will bolt on to existing studs and have new studs for thewheel integrated into the spacer. Keep in mind you may want to change wheels back to stock (e.g. for winter), and longer studs can be too long for the stock wheels / lugs (unless you keep the spacer on).

Hubcentric is important, you don't want the wheel to rest the load on the bolts, you want it on the hub. The bolts are only meant to support sideways loads, making sure the wheel doesn't come off the hub. Gorilla makes hubcentric rings (adapters) in just about any size. You can order them through summit racing.

Lastly, if you want a "fits like a glove" custom solution, got to http://wheeladapter.com/ - they will make whatever you want at a very good price, and about a week turn around time. You can get hubcentric on both the hub side and wheel side for the same price as off-the-shelf H&R spacers.

Lastly, spacers are always "hit & miss" - you won't really know what fits until you try it. One way to avoid wasting money is to buy a bunch of washers, jack up the car and start stacking them between the wheel and the hub. Unless you run out of stud length, this is the best way to determine what spacers you need. You can gently rest the car on the wheel to see what the fender gap looks like, but let the car's weight still rest on the jack or you may push you studs sideways, making them come loose and then you won't be able to get thewheel off.

When testing the spacing, look for clearance on the fender, the strut (behind the wheel) and the brakes (especially in the front). Also make sure nothing touches at full steering deflection (not just straight).

I've been playing with this a lot lately - so if you have questions, ask away .

__________________
void - Northwest Evolutions

grip by ROBISPEC | power by WORKS | care & feeding by CASCADE AUTOSPORT

 

Enkie's engineered specs are 17mm spacer...RPF1's do have alot of spoke flex with high grip/high HP cars...

 

ok i have had these wheels for over about 1 year, whats with all the threads about them now? i have the 17x8.5 , personally i dont like them in 18" and glad i didnt shoot for the bigger dia.

 

Joeymia:

Couple of ????'s

What was your prep process for paint? Did you take them down to bare metal, or just scuff up the original finish?

Did you get them mounted yet?

How do those Mackin spacers look?

Have you heard from SS RX7 r2 yet about how the 15mm spacing did under load? (I'll pose this same question to him in his RPF1 thread, too)...

Inquiring minds want to know!

 

Hahaha, I had a cat that was heavier than my wheels @ 27lbs. My 19x10 on the G35 with SBC finish was just barely under 20lbs.

 

Finally got the spacers today. My wheels are mounted.

Enjoy the pictures.

 

Do the front wheels now protrude outside the fenders or is that just the angle the picture was taken? What tire size did you settle on? Any rubbing at full lock left or right?

That color on the wheels is very nice. Well done. You guys are making it difficult to retain any of my paychecks!

 

it protrudes a bit out of the fender but the driveside tire was slightly turned aswell.

 

can you get a bunch more pics and side pics to see all around and a shot to see how far they stick out. Did you get 3/4 inch spacers then?
Dave