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Aquamist HFS-5 system: Official Q&A...

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Old Jun 6, 2007 | 09:00 AM
  #121  
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To all those that are using the Aquamist system. What other modifications are you doing to take advantage of the WI system? Are you just increasing you maximum boost, or are you re-flashing to remove fuel dumping during acceleration? Are you happy with the results? Which vendors know how to properly re-flash w/ a WI system.
The aquamist system sounds like it could be good start to some real performance improvements but before I start down this road I would really appreciate some feedback from those of you that have already done it. I blew two 4g63s in my old Eclipse and I just want to make sure that any mods that I do on my EVO don't reduce reliability. (In other words, I want to make my EVO more fun, but if I blow the engine my wife will shoot me.)
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Old Jun 6, 2007 | 11:13 AM
  #122  
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Originally Posted by dudical26
ok thanks for the info, I will not be plugging up the third port, instead I will be using it. I want my solenoid to be set up like I show in the following link.

HERE
I have managed to integrate your drawing to the HFS-5. I think it should work well.



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Old Jun 6, 2007 | 11:15 AM
  #123  
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Originally Posted by dudical26
Richard - how do I make it so that the DDS3 supplies no power if everything is working properly and will only supply power if something is wrong. (for the failsafe). Is this reversible?
It is possible but not very safe.

If for some reason the DDS3 has lost its power supply, it will not be able to perform the fail-safe action.
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Old Jun 6, 2007 | 12:33 PM
  #124  
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From: NNJ
good point I had not thought about that.
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Old Jun 8, 2007 | 08:54 AM
  #125  
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From: NNJ
Hey Richard, in your diagram I think you have the MBC installed the wrong way, the turbo side should have the ball blocking it. The ball should not be blocking the wastegate side. This way the compressed air is pushing up against the ball.

Other than that the diagram is great and very helpfull.

Also, I plan on installing a switch that will allow me to run high boost even with teh HFS5 switched off. The following diagram illustrates how I plan to wire the switch, can you tell me if you think there is anything wrong with this.
Attached Thumbnails Aquamist HFS-5 system: Official Q&A...-5a.jpg  

Last edited by dudical26; Jun 8, 2007 at 09:10 AM.
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Old Jun 8, 2007 | 09:29 AM
  #126  
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Got my kit installed yesterday by scott @ ttp. Very nice kit, just alot of wiring. Overall im impressed with the kit. Great work
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Old Jun 8, 2007 | 02:46 PM
  #127  
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Originally Posted by dudical26
good point I had not thought about that.
You are absolutely right, I will redo the drawing.
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Old Jun 8, 2007 | 03:33 PM
  #128  
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Richard, check your email. I need a part for shift_fast's Evo. The jet adapters are very thin and are not made of brass as the instructions state. Consequently one of them broke.

One of the other things I noticed, speaking of backwards diagrams was the high speed valve which had a sticker that indicated a flow arrow pointing in the wrong direction.

Last edited by TTP Engineering; Jun 8, 2007 at 03:36 PM.
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Old Jun 8, 2007 | 04:05 PM
  #129  
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TTP, how many jet adapters do you need? If you can send me an email tonight with your full shipping address, I'll send what you need USPS priority tomorrow morning.

email = jackblalock(AT)gmail.com
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Old Jun 9, 2007 | 01:44 AM
  #130  
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Originally Posted by TTP Engineering
Richard, check your email. I need a part for shift_fast's Evo. The jet adapters are very thin and are not made of brass as the instructions state. Consequently one of them broke.

One of the other things I noticed, speaking of backwards diagrams was the high speed valve which had a sticker that indicated a flow arrow pointing in the wrong direction.

I believe Jack has them in stock, he will look after you on this side of the Atlantic. The adaptor is thin due to the closeness of the two thread depth1/8BSP and M8. I have mentioned exercising care when tightening especially the hole is threaded with a tapered 1/8 NPT. After loctited, the fitting will last a long time.

The Part is made of Brass but nickel plated so it is quite confusing in appearance.

The output side of the HSV is the longer side. I am surprised about the sticker pointing in the wrong direction. Please take a picture of this if possible for me.
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Old Jun 9, 2007 | 02:26 AM
  #131  
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Originally Posted by Richard L
You are absolutely right, I will redo the drawing.
I have just updated the diagram and correct the MBC valve port.
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Old Jun 9, 2007 | 02:33 AM
  #132  
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Originally Posted by dudical26

... Also, I plan on installing a switch that will allow me to run high boost even with teh HFS5 switched off. The following diagram illustrates how I plan to wire the switch, can you tell me if you think there is anything wrong with this.
Yes this will work well. I will try to modify the original drawing to do this by keeping the original wiring rather drastically changing the "switched 0V" to "switched 12V". This is to avoid careless wirng and result in a short circuit.

Here is a drawing of a over-ride switch that will allow high boost when DDS3 is switched off:


Last edited by Richard L; Jun 9, 2007 at 02:47 AM.
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Old Jun 9, 2007 | 02:55 AM
  #133  
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Originally Posted by shift_fast
Got my kit installed yesterday by scott @ ttp. Very nice kit, just alot of wiring. Overall im impressed with the kit. Great work
any install pictures you can post?
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Old Jun 11, 2007 | 05:32 AM
  #134  
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From: NNJ
Richard -
The black wire on the FIA2, should the be grounded to the same ground source as the DDS3 or should I wire it into the "sensor earth" wire on my ECU?

Thanks
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Old Jun 12, 2007 | 09:12 AM
  #135  
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From: NNJ
Bump for an answer.
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