RRM springs ROCK!!!!
FYI: While we're on the subject of swaybars: Rock, can you guys make up some end links that don't suck? I'll be first in line for a set.
Last edited by nj_08_gts; Sep 21, 2008 at 02:59 PM.
ROAD/RACE
Depends on who you are. I'll do a swaybar install in 10-15 minutes. If you're not mechanically inclined or experienced, it's obviously going to take longer and be more challenging. The part that goes in the trunk is the strut bar; and judging by your car domain pics, it doesn't have a hope in hell of fitting in there
Also, if you're not Auto Xing or tracking the car, you'll never really reap the benefits of RRM's chassis components, so your money may be better spent elsewhere.
Also, if you're not Auto Xing or tracking the car, you'll never really reap the benefits of RRM's chassis components, so your money may be better spent elsewhere.
what way should the little sticker on the spring be? I sware tha tthey re the right way, becasue we had it one way and it wa hiting the shock so wo turned it around and it didnt hit the shock at all.
How and where does the rear sway bar install? Do you need a impact wrench or any special tools? Do you need a lift for the car, or can you do it in your driveway? Will this work with the ES also, or just the GTS?
Okay Thanks I FIXEd the problem it was NOT a problem with the Springs it was the INSALLERS lol me and my friend. Take note of this if your going to install springs. There are two holes one on the Bottom where the Springs mounts and one on the top where the spring sits called the "HAT" these two holes must be lined up or you will have the problem that I had of the springs making nosie over any bump. Here are a few pics to show you guys what i am talking about, Again its not a Road Race problem its an installer problem. Their springs are awsome!!!

This is the hole on the Bottom, It will not move the base which its on is welded to the strut itself.

this top hole is what moved to fix it like I did here all i did was take the wheel?tire off then undid the 2 19mm bolts, after that I undid the one 17mm bolt that compresses the spring to make it loose, then all I did was turn the spring so that the top hole lined up with the bottom hole AS PICTURED ABOVE problem sloved!
THANKS ROMAN!

This is the hole on the Bottom, It will not move the base which its on is welded to the strut itself.

this top hole is what moved to fix it like I did here all i did was take the wheel?tire off then undid the 2 19mm bolts, after that I undid the one 17mm bolt that compresses the spring to make it loose, then all I did was turn the spring so that the top hole lined up with the bottom hole AS PICTURED ABOVE problem sloved!
THANKS ROMAN!
Last edited by 08Lancer89; Sep 24, 2008 at 09:14 AM.
The rear is perrty easy I talked to Roman the other day from Road race, he forgot to put it on youtube, But if he dosent I can tell you how to do it.
YES I KNOW it was in the youtube vid but I have dailup sadley and it did not load after hours lol.
YES I KNOW it was in the youtube vid but I have dailup sadley and it did not load after hours lol.
If you're getting the swaybar, get a set of springs to complete the package & vice versa.
Last edited by nj_08_gts; Sep 24, 2008 at 09:23 PM.
Springs are OK but the coilevers whipp ace.
first thing first. You are gonna wear out the inside of your tires first. 2nd. If you go over speed bumps or something that allows the springs to fully stretch out ( decompress ) you run the risk of the plastic centering rings disloding which will give you popping noises or a shifting noise under certain loads. 3rd. Installing just springs is a ton of work to just lower the car and have it ride "as good as stock". Coilovers lower your center of gravity reduce inside tire wear, are adjustable ( front dampening is accessible while the rear dampening must be set before installation. You can adjust the ride height at anytime with removing the wheel and a coupld turns with a spanner wrench ), remove all parts that rely on gravity to keep in position.
Once the coilovers are installed you can start to experiement with your driving style and ride setup. The lancer has natural understeer. You can't eliminate that with springs but you can with coilovers. So, while your crashing into curbs the other guy is slicing and dicing curves.
please chime in with your thoughts, experiences and opinions.
first thing first. You are gonna wear out the inside of your tires first. 2nd. If you go over speed bumps or something that allows the springs to fully stretch out ( decompress ) you run the risk of the plastic centering rings disloding which will give you popping noises or a shifting noise under certain loads. 3rd. Installing just springs is a ton of work to just lower the car and have it ride "as good as stock". Coilovers lower your center of gravity reduce inside tire wear, are adjustable ( front dampening is accessible while the rear dampening must be set before installation. You can adjust the ride height at anytime with removing the wheel and a coupld turns with a spanner wrench ), remove all parts that rely on gravity to keep in position.
Once the coilovers are installed you can start to experiement with your driving style and ride setup. The lancer has natural understeer. You can't eliminate that with springs but you can with coilovers. So, while your crashing into curbs the other guy is slicing and dicing curves.
please chime in with your thoughts, experiences and opinions.
Springs are OK but the coilevers whipp ace.
first thing first. You are gonna wear out the inside of your tires first. 2nd. If you go over speed bumps or something that allows the springs to fully stretch out ( decompress ) you run the risk of the plastic centering rings disloding which will give you popping noises or a shifting noise under certain loads. 3rd. Installing just springs is a ton of work to just lower the car and have it ride "as good as stock". Coilovers lower your center of gravity reduce inside tire wear, are adjustable ( front dampening is accessible while the rear dampening must be set before installation. You can adjust the ride height at anytime with removing the wheel and a coupld turns with a spanner wrench ), remove all parts that rely on gravity to keep in position.
Once the coilovers are installed you can start to experiement with your driving style and ride setup. The lancer has natural understeer. You can't eliminate that with springs but you can with coilovers. So, while your crashing into curbs the other guy is slicing and dicing curves.
please chime in with your thoughts, experiences and opinions.
first thing first. You are gonna wear out the inside of your tires first. 2nd. If you go over speed bumps or something that allows the springs to fully stretch out ( decompress ) you run the risk of the plastic centering rings disloding which will give you popping noises or a shifting noise under certain loads. 3rd. Installing just springs is a ton of work to just lower the car and have it ride "as good as stock". Coilovers lower your center of gravity reduce inside tire wear, are adjustable ( front dampening is accessible while the rear dampening must be set before installation. You can adjust the ride height at anytime with removing the wheel and a coupld turns with a spanner wrench ), remove all parts that rely on gravity to keep in position.
Once the coilovers are installed you can start to experiement with your driving style and ride setup. The lancer has natural understeer. You can't eliminate that with springs but you can with coilovers. So, while your crashing into curbs the other guy is slicing and dicing curves.
please chime in with your thoughts, experiences and opinions.
Coilovers require significant investment in money and then another investment in time to get the alignment settings where you want/need them. And if the alignment settings are wrong, they'll kill a set of tires just as easily as springs will. Also, in general, coils produce a harsher ride quality than a set of springs, so springs (once again, in general) can also be a better choice in terms of ride comfort.




