Akuma Motorsports Drag/show Evo8 build!
You guys are funny! LOL! Anyway, yeah the Evo has been sitting at the "new" Akuma shop since it opened in April with a TON of parts. Today we just inventoried all of the parts here at home and I think there are more parts here than there. Crazy! Anyway, here is the list of parts still yet to order. There are quite a few to also be fabricated, but we'll get to those later. 
-XRP hose and clamshell fittings, spacers, o-rings, socket end ferrules, etc. for custom CBRD radiator setup
-All various fittings and lines for custom brake, fuel, and clutch systems
-Few remaining Deutsch AS and AS Mini connectors, Raychem DR-25/DR-25TW, potting compund, thermocouple wire (EGT), etc. for custom wiring and tucking
-Haltech CAN Bus and I/O Expander 12 Box A for all remaining input/outputs for Haltech PS1000 EMS
-SBT kit from RoadRageGauges for monitoring of EFR turbo speed sensor output
-DSS axles front and rear
-CBRE custom ceramic wheel bearings and new custom hubs (modified DSS hubs)
-Tires (still have yet to pick what tires to run on the Volk CE28N's in 18"x10.5")
-Cusco V-brace and Type-CB rear strut bar
-Crow or Schroth harnesses, cam locks, pads, etc.
-Cage-mounted gauge pods
-CCW Classics and Hoosiers or MT Streets for track
-Dress-Up Bolts for Rallytech CF rear seat delete
-Odyssey battery
-BR drive-shaft loop (or custom fabricated one)
There's also a bunch of stuff still left to be chromed and or polished once they are fabricated and of course custom black suede interior has to get done too. Next though is going to be the full interior/exterior prep/paint and Voltex install, along with the CF roof, Do-Luck CF duckbill trunk, CF hood, etc., etc., etc.
I am sure that I am missing a few things, but that's about it. We have everything else already, either here at home, or sitting at Akuma waiting to go. The engine bay is getting redone too since we decided to do the Tilton pedal box, MC's, and custom braking system. So more holes to shave, additional stitch welding, and then prep/paint. I have a feeling that the Evo will be at the bodyshop for awhile to get all of that done, but it's gonna look INSANE once they are done with it and it's ready to head back to Akuma for final assembly, installs of everything, fabrication, etc. Hope this was a decent update.
-XRP hose and clamshell fittings, spacers, o-rings, socket end ferrules, etc. for custom CBRD radiator setup
-All various fittings and lines for custom brake, fuel, and clutch systems
-Few remaining Deutsch AS and AS Mini connectors, Raychem DR-25/DR-25TW, potting compund, thermocouple wire (EGT), etc. for custom wiring and tucking
-Haltech CAN Bus and I/O Expander 12 Box A for all remaining input/outputs for Haltech PS1000 EMS
-SBT kit from RoadRageGauges for monitoring of EFR turbo speed sensor output
-DSS axles front and rear
-CBRE custom ceramic wheel bearings and new custom hubs (modified DSS hubs)
-Tires (still have yet to pick what tires to run on the Volk CE28N's in 18"x10.5")
-Cusco V-brace and Type-CB rear strut bar
-Crow or Schroth harnesses, cam locks, pads, etc.
-Cage-mounted gauge pods
-CCW Classics and Hoosiers or MT Streets for track
-Dress-Up Bolts for Rallytech CF rear seat delete
-Odyssey battery
-BR drive-shaft loop (or custom fabricated one)
There's also a bunch of stuff still left to be chromed and or polished once they are fabricated and of course custom black suede interior has to get done too. Next though is going to be the full interior/exterior prep/paint and Voltex install, along with the CF roof, Do-Luck CF duckbill trunk, CF hood, etc., etc., etc.
I am sure that I am missing a few things, but that's about it. We have everything else already, either here at home, or sitting at Akuma waiting to go. The engine bay is getting redone too since we decided to do the Tilton pedal box, MC's, and custom braking system. So more holes to shave, additional stitch welding, and then prep/paint. I have a feeling that the Evo will be at the bodyshop for awhile to get all of that done, but it's gonna look INSANE once they are done with it and it's ready to head back to Akuma for final assembly, installs of everything, fabrication, etc.
Hope this was a decent update.
I guess I probably should have told you that Deutsch circular connectors are not the cheapest in the world, and truth be told are sometimes not the best made or easy to deal with. A lot of times using the mil-spec equivalent are cheaper and better made. Also, then you could have gotten a hermetic connector and gotten even more waterproof. But, if you want to know more just PM me. I used to be a harness designer/engineer and assembler for General Dynamics for a lot of their military products and have quite a bit of experience in the realm of circ connectors.
Last edited by smoothy; Dec 27, 2011 at 07:38 AM.
I guess I probably should have told you that Deutsch circular connectors are not the cheapest in the world, and truth be told are sometimes not the best made or easy to deal with. A lot of times using the mil-spec equivalent are cheaper and better made. Also, then you could have gotten a hermetic connector and gotten even more waterproof. But, if you want to know more just PM me. I used to be a harness designer/engineer and assembler for General Dynamics for a lot of their military products and have quick a bit of experience in the realm of circ connectors.
There's two Tial 44mm MVR WG's in this kit as well as a full 3.5" dp and mid-pipe, both in the same high-temp black coating as the manifold. I'll get pics of those up later today. This forward facing Full-Race kit is definitely a work of art. Thanks Geoff at Full-Race!
I sent you a reply PM, but basically there is a lot to consider when engineering your harness, especially component layout and route. Too bad you can't get the Pro/E .asm file or equivilent file so that you can properly route the new harness through the engine bay and to the fire wall. That would make life to easy, but I wouldn't know how much you would have to pay to get a model of the Evo VIII, if you even could without having to hack into Mitsu's network. But, at least once you have your engine mounted you can do string routes and make fairly accurate stickline drawings from that.