2.0L long rod
10:1 compression
gsc s3 cams
t4 6466 1.15ar
e85 fuel


How does this ignition map look to you. It appears to have too much timing at about where peak torque would be, and could maybe use some more timing in higher rpms, but I am not a tuner. Please give me some good feedback. Thank You.


Oh. I am seeing max boost (~31 psi) around 6250 rpms and hold pretty steady to 8k rpms.

 

That seems crazy high for me on e85

anything >4psi & >3700 rpm is too much... is this a tuned map or a starting point?

what is your knock sensor telling you?

 

tuned map (not by me)


I am new and learning with this but I logged knock #1 volts and retard. I logged voltage spikes as high as 2.4-3.6. Knock 1 retard maxed out at 5.273 from 4700-7500rpms.

 

Whole map is high as a giraffe's ***. Pretty much start with highlight 4k and above and decrement 8-10 degrees. Keep running it as is, and start looking for another set of bearings.

Also, check timing with a timing light to verify.

 

#1 adjust your break points, unless your really are running 60psi. Get more resolution where you need it.
#2 verify base ignition timing, that could be why the numbers are so high.
#3 those numbers are crazy high, peek torque should be like 0-5* tops



230kpa == 18.86psi
320kpa == 31.91psi -- my car == 702whp/510tq at 32psi, using the ignition map above.


Series 2 sync (STI):

Series 1 Sync (Evo 8):

 

That is bad.......


If the computer is pulling 5* of timing on its own then for sure you are wayyyyyyyy over timing the car. With out the logs hard to say if the knock cal I set up correctly. But anyway you cut it on E85 you should have a very high knock threshold.

 

Thanks for your feedback guys.

Well the tuner brought it all the way to 55 psi. I will never be bringing the boost that high, so I guess I could adjust the boost breakpoint.

I will verify base timing. I am just confused how to do it with my sparktech cop setup. No plug wire to clamp on to.

I figured my numbers are high, after I researched some timing maps.

How far off could my base timing be? I mean the car idles OK and its timing numbers are at 15 in AEM. I would assume that if my base timing was that retarded, then the value of 15 would actually be much lower and my car would not idle so well. Am I correct in assuming that

 

It depends on how your idle setting are setup. You can add timing at idle and other things to make the car idle well.




What coils are you running? IF they are the 2 wire 300m coils you can use a standard inductive pickup timing light.




Did you car make the 900+whp listed in your sig with the cal above?

 

Not sure what coils they are. I am running this system from sparktech: http://www.sparktechignitions.net/st...roducts_id=214


Yes, my car made 924 whp on a dynojet on that cal I posted. This was at 55 psi, which is why my breakpoints are so high.

 

after speaking with the tuner, he is saying that base ignition was set, so my timing numbers are in direct relationship with aem numbers

 

Yes, but base ignition could be set 10 degrees advanced. Ie your whole global map is really only hitting the indicated number -10.

 

I am a little confused now. if my base ignition was set 10 degrees advanced, wouldn't my map be hitting the indicated number +10 degrees? Or am I not looking at this correctly?

based upon my logs, my logged ignition timing is in line with the values in my map. IE, my idle timing is at 15 degrees which is in line with my tables values. Or is that not a good indication that my timing was set up correctly?

I will be getting a timing gun on it this week. Basically, am I wanting to make sure that at idle, my timing is in fact advanced 15 degrees? like my ignition map indicates?

 

You can tell the AEM that 0 is zero, 10 is zero, or 50 is zero.

 

I am just going to discuss my concerns with my tuner, since I already paid him, I might as well make him check all this for me. I feel like I will just be asking you guys question after question. So there is a setting somewhere within AEM that I can tell AEM what to translate my timing numbers to? Where can I find that? Anyone wanting a copy of my cal to look for themselves?

 

To check your base timing, you have to hook a timing light to the car. It is the sync between the computer and the engine. It makes sure that when 0 is on the computer that it is 0 on the motor. If that was not done, then your motor could be at any degree advanced or retarded and your computer assumes that 0 == your current motor timing.


On a stock trigger plate evo, I only saw a few degrees off, but when I went to the 12 tooth trigger plate it was off by a huge amount.


Watch the videos above, I added a Series 1 and Series 2 video.