There ya go! They fit haha. that's pretty awesome news.

 

Too tired to put up captions tonight, but here's some updated pictures. I'll work on organizing them tomorrow night. To bed.


Here is the negative battery terminal with the insulation boot I got from Hardware Sales. I think it turned out well. Taylor Terminal with Taylor heat shrink.



Tools I had to buy to crimp the ground strap lug


Crimped ground strap lug.


Installed! time to start the car! haha just kidding :P


Routing the power cable up front










Power cable at solid state kill switch. Another crimped lug and more taylor colored heat shrink.


Add in some zip ties...


Fender plumbing... this doesn't show all of what I did, but I'll try to explain. The power cable cant sag below the sheet metal because the slicks will rub through the power cable or worse...snag it and uninstall my battery relocation kit in milliseconds. I ended up drilling a few small holes, deburring them, painting it with primer, sanding, painting with black paint, and then zip tied the power cable higher on the fender inner structure. I looked at this problem for no less than 1 hour before making up my mind to drill holes. I did not want the cable to touch the tire.... EVER. I added the plastic corrugated loom I hate soo much for added protection. Shorts suck.



Fender back on after a REAL good cleaning inside and out.


I promise the tire don't rub... ever :P 285 Hoosiers touched a bit. I have a very awesome solution coming for this shortly.
Installed picture... shows it with the fender on.


Routed through the grommet and into the cabin.


I think this is when I mounted the kill switch. It was momentous, so I had to take a picture.


This shows the routing of the singular wire that I had to run along side the 0 gauge power wire for the rear mounted kill switch. It's the grounded side of the solid state relay...and when you hit the rear mounted switch it disconnects the ground and makes the solid state relay circuit go OPEN.


I think this was just a victory picture showing that I had made it back to the trunk and that I just barely bought enough power cable!


Interior pieces put back in (fuel pump hanger still needs fixing)


You can see the Power wire and the small ground wire routed here near the rear passengers butt cheeks.


Cable cut to length


Another shot of the kill... I think I actually had it wired this time. I suppose its the difference between taking a picture of a loaded gun and an unloaded gun.


150amp relay is mounted. I ended up welding very small nuts to the trunk pan and used small SHCS to bolt the relay to the bottom of the trunk. With the covers on the relay you can't tell that it's bolted down...you know car audio guys going for the flush look I guess.


Yet another shot of the kill switch and my metal shavings/dust that has collected on the rearward most part of my car


Oh snaps! Christmas came early. 4 pounds per side of weight savings (yes I weighted the car) No installed pics yet. I'll get those next time around when I was the car. Girodisc ULTRA-light 2 piece rear rotors. I picked up some replacement Raybestos ST43 pads too.



This is when I ran the hardlines/softlines for the ACD relocation

 

I love the battery relocation. It came out very clean and I will definitely be doing something similar

 

Why don't you take pride in your car

 

What made you prefer running the battery cable through the driver side than the passenger side? I ran mine through the passenger side sills, just below the ACD ecu, through a hole in the top passenger side of the firewall (behind the oem heat shield) and then across the firewall to where the stock positive terminal was. I think it would have been easier and definitely theres no chance of tire rubbing.

Btw I need your rubbing solution secrets. I run ohlins R&T in the front with 8k ohlins eibachs and 255s on 17x8 et38 and am able to rub that plastic harness protector and ABS sensor plug generously. My tire actually smashed the ABS sensor plug, I had to get another sensor and relocate the plug to a safer location.

 

You either don't have enough spring rate or your car is too low. I think it's probably your car is too low.

Too low for the suspension geometry. Go read how to determine your roll center wiht a MacPherson strut suspension. You'll see your front LCA's are not parallel with the earth, but pointing downward. This eats up your spring rate since your roll moment is now larger (with your roll center being at or below the ground)

So in the end it ends up being A) too low and as a result of a, Not enough B) spring rate.

You're not running enough tire (unless you're running Hoosiers) to be needing higher spring rates.

 

Seems like the most logical conclusion, I've been told that by another suspension expert. Its hard to believe because the ohlins come with 35mm drop already, and I went just 6mm lower. So a bit over 1.5in drop total. And I have the whiteline RCAs and swift front bar. Yet I still tuck wheels well enough in corners to warrant being on the stanced thread.

EDIT: running hankock rs3s

 

Fantastic build an awesome attention to details.

Kevin

 

sorry I missed this last response. I ran it down the driver's side because I was routing my VIPEC additional sensor harness through the passenger side fire wall as well as all the ACD wiring. So there's only soo much room for the cables to be routed under the kick panels.

Furthermore the driver's side wire routing is about 6 inches away from where I put the solid state relay, so it's much cleaner to have the wire exit the show in 6" instead of having to drape the 0 gauge wire across my entire engine bay.


ha! Are you referring to my neon

 

Great build!

 

I'm looking to do a similar relocation of my battery. Why did you keep the fuseable link on the positive? and why did you go with a solid state relay? Referring to Curt Brown blue evo, he relocated his under the seat and did away with everything ...

 

Eric,

I don't know anything about electronics really, but are there any issues with ground offsets or voltage offsets (think that's what it's called) by moving the main ground to the rear of the car?

 

Depends upon the resistance through the chassis.... which there shouldn't be much as it's a huge chunk of steel.

Why did I keep a fuse on the positive terminal? I assume you're referring to the fusible link between the starter and the battery? So if you get a short it eats the wire and not the battery? I think that's an obvious question, so I think I'm missing something. Can you tell me why I'm not getting your question?

I ran the solid state relay so I didn't have to use a rear mounted switch that would require me to run several wires the length of the car. I didn't want to mount a kill switch in my trunk, or my tail light... and I didn't like ANY of the kill switches except the Keyed plastic switches that the road racers used. Which isn't legal for NHRA. I'd have to drill a large hole in the car to run the battery cables out of the trunk and into the rear bumper. If I used the grommet that I did for the small wire... I'd end up using an extra 7 feet of 0 gage wire that I didn't need to. IDK... I'm not saying its the best solution out there, but I think it's the best solution that I've seen so far.

You can't (racing sanction body) legally mount your battery under your passenger seat.... or I would have.

 

What a build that thing is huge! great workmanship on everything you do. Kudos!!!

 

Yes the link on the terminal. I once popped it and my car went crazy so I replaced it. I haven't done much research yet into the battery relocation and what i would need to do it properly but after only seeing yours and Curt's I will definitely be doing it. I plan to mount mine in the trunk like you have done and now I know what I need to do haha