Electronic Rust Protection
#1
Electronic Rust Protection
I know the jury is still out on this. For the # of people who claim it works, there’s just as many who say it doesn’t.
So I’m going to buy one and decide myself, but my question is if anyone knows the difference between the Cdn Tire Counter Act that’s on sale this week for $200. Or the dealer supplied one called Final Coat for $700.
Aside from the typical dealer markup, why the price difference? From what I can tell, they use the same method.
So I’m going to buy one and decide myself, but my question is if anyone knows the difference between the Cdn Tire Counter Act that’s on sale this week for $200. Or the dealer supplied one called Final Coat for $700.
Aside from the typical dealer markup, why the price difference? From what I can tell, they use the same method.
#3
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this works. it's not snake oil it's strictly chemistry. Basically they will create an anode and cathode in your metalic body of your car and have a "sacrifical" aftermarket metal that will rust to no end. they use this method for a very long time now for a lot of bridges to protect the rebars in concrete.
#4
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My lancer is pushing 8 years old.
winter driven
has the Counter Act rust thing...
verdict.
No Rust
I didn't think it worked, but i guess it does.
I don't think it prevents rust, but it probably does slow the process down.
winter driven
has the Counter Act rust thing...
verdict.
No Rust
I didn't think it worked, but i guess it does.
I don't think it prevents rust, but it probably does slow the process down.
#6
I ended up going with Krown. I know it works, so why try something new that is so questionable.
And I had no problem with them drilling. Without it, you'll get door and trunk rust. A few concealed holes that are coated is the lesser of the 2 evils I think.
Last edited by sun_ice4; May 14, 2010 at 03:02 PM.
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#8
I had Krown on my last car... and I had no rust after 10 years. The only problem was that you constantly had a oil creeping out of the seams. Like not just close to when it was applied... it could be the middle of summer and you'd still have black crap on the car.
So I hope you can report back on the electronic device. As the original poster said... some people like it... some people don't. Atleast with that I won't have crap dripping out of the seams of my car all year.
I don't want to do nothing tho..., I plan on keeping this EVO for a while.
So I hope you can report back on the electronic device. As the original poster said... some people like it... some people don't. Atleast with that I won't have crap dripping out of the seams of my car all year.
I don't want to do nothing tho..., I plan on keeping this EVO for a while.
#9
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From corrosion doctors...
Bottom line, take good care of your car, perform regular maintenance and cleanings and your car will survive. Leave the crap on your car, don't take care of it, and it will fall apart.
Be wary! Well it looks good and you want to protect your precious vehicle. So you have become the perfect target of those snake oil merchants that prefer the green in your pocket than to sell you a honest service that achieves the intended purpose.
No sweat, you can beat good old corrosion with a little magic powder and, of course, the green in your wallet. Here is something we have to say about the uselessness of these devices that go by different names, technical descriptions, glossy brochures, and glitzy Web sites.
Cathodic protection (CP), which is the real name of the technique these profiteers are trying to sell you, has been used with success to protect against corrosion on many structures and systems including sea going ships, buried pipelines, and even reinforced concrete. However, there is an area where the technique has no chance to work ... the protection of cars. Human nature being what it is, many entrepreneurs have tried to use the visible successes of CP to make money by offering car owners devices to achieve such protection. They typically offer these snake oil devices at a price that could be reasonable if it did indeed work. In reality, the gizmos they offer are a lost in the suckers pocket and a gain in the entrepreneur crooks bank account. And watch out, they will disguise the same old gadgets with new patents and glitzy technical names, even throwing in a microprocessor!!
Why these gadgets do not work?
One has to understand the principle of CP to understand that the technique works by forcing a protective flow of electrons to the metal that needs protection. For this process to work, you need a complete electrical circuit to bring the electrons back. In the case of an outboard motor on a boat, the sea water completes the circuit. In the case of a bridge, the wet soil completes the circuit.
But in your car, the only way to complete the circuit on all the metal in your car is to drive into seawater or be buried in soil! There are various products on the market claiming to provide cathodic electrochemical protection to your car, just by injecting electrons into your metal work - but they don't work. Countries like Canada and the U.S.A. have actually got court orders to stop these products from being sold - simply because they don't work. In your car, there are lots of little nooks and crannies where dirt and/or water can collect. The rust happens not where the metal is dry, nor where the metal is wet - but at the interface between the wet and dry metal. So if you screwed a bunch of anodes right on the interface or one or two millimeters thereof, you would protect your car. But you would need thousands of these anodes over your car.
Modern car manufacturers often do a process called zinc electroplating on the entire chassis of the car. So long as the zinc is complete, the car will not rust. Your best bet is to regularly clean out all the drain holes so that the water can't collect, scrape off any mud that has collected so that metal does not rust away underneath the mud, and remove the leaves and dirt. And of course, once you've washed the car, you should always take it for a drive so that any trapped water can slosh out.
No sweat, you can beat good old corrosion with a little magic powder and, of course, the green in your wallet. Here is something we have to say about the uselessness of these devices that go by different names, technical descriptions, glossy brochures, and glitzy Web sites.
Cathodic protection (CP), which is the real name of the technique these profiteers are trying to sell you, has been used with success to protect against corrosion on many structures and systems including sea going ships, buried pipelines, and even reinforced concrete. However, there is an area where the technique has no chance to work ... the protection of cars. Human nature being what it is, many entrepreneurs have tried to use the visible successes of CP to make money by offering car owners devices to achieve such protection. They typically offer these snake oil devices at a price that could be reasonable if it did indeed work. In reality, the gizmos they offer are a lost in the suckers pocket and a gain in the entrepreneur crooks bank account. And watch out, they will disguise the same old gadgets with new patents and glitzy technical names, even throwing in a microprocessor!!
Why these gadgets do not work?
One has to understand the principle of CP to understand that the technique works by forcing a protective flow of electrons to the metal that needs protection. For this process to work, you need a complete electrical circuit to bring the electrons back. In the case of an outboard motor on a boat, the sea water completes the circuit. In the case of a bridge, the wet soil completes the circuit.
But in your car, the only way to complete the circuit on all the metal in your car is to drive into seawater or be buried in soil! There are various products on the market claiming to provide cathodic electrochemical protection to your car, just by injecting electrons into your metal work - but they don't work. Countries like Canada and the U.S.A. have actually got court orders to stop these products from being sold - simply because they don't work. In your car, there are lots of little nooks and crannies where dirt and/or water can collect. The rust happens not where the metal is dry, nor where the metal is wet - but at the interface between the wet and dry metal. So if you screwed a bunch of anodes right on the interface or one or two millimeters thereof, you would protect your car. But you would need thousands of these anodes over your car.
Modern car manufacturers often do a process called zinc electroplating on the entire chassis of the car. So long as the zinc is complete, the car will not rust. Your best bet is to regularly clean out all the drain holes so that the water can't collect, scrape off any mud that has collected so that metal does not rust away underneath the mud, and remove the leaves and dirt. And of course, once you've washed the car, you should always take it for a drive so that any trapped water can slosh out.
Bottom line, take good care of your car, perform regular maintenance and cleanings and your car will survive. Leave the crap on your car, don't take care of it, and it will fall apart.
#10
I think that brings up another question to be asked...
How many people who HAVE NOT protected their cars have rust on them? Because to be honest... you don't see many rusty cars these days... and the majority of people DO NOT get extra protection for their cars.
How many people who HAVE NOT protected their cars have rust on them? Because to be honest... you don't see many rusty cars these days... and the majority of people DO NOT get extra protection for their cars.
#12
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I wasn't really sure what to think, so I stuck with the old school method of rust proofing. Had the undercar sprayed right at the stealership with the wax-type stuff. I was a bit skeptical of the electronic stuff, and it was far more expensive... but from what I read and understand, the biggest part of the rust war is simply keeping you car clean
#13
No, it doesn't. I spoke directly with Mitsu Canada prior to getting mine Krown'd. It does not void the warranty.
I am the original poster, and as mentioned above, i went with Krown afterall. (I didn't want the X to be the guinea pig.)
I had the wax stuff done from the dealer on another car. After 7 years.. rust. My next car I had Krown'd every year. It's 10 years old now.. no rust. You may want to consider getting it oil sprayed.
I had the wax stuff done from the dealer on another car. After 7 years.. rust. My next car I had Krown'd every year. It's 10 years old now.. no rust. You may want to consider getting it oil sprayed.
#14
How old is your car? Still in good shape?
#15
I find that living in Canada you definitely want to get some kind of rust protection for your car if you want it to last through more than one winter. I found a great article in the globe and mail (http://www.theglobea.../article535224/) showing how overpriced the erp's are when the dealer sells them. so i decided to check out the krown blog to hear their thoughts on electronic rust proofing (http://www.krown.com/blog/2014/06/el...st-protection/) and came across the list of products recommended by the Automobile Protection Agency - thought I should post it here for folks:
http://www.apa.ca/se...ustproofing.asp
They give a pretty good run-down on how dealers profit but drivers are overcharged with these devices. They also list some trusted rustproofers from Canada.
http://www.apa.ca/se...ustproofing.asp
They give a pretty good run-down on how dealers profit but drivers are overcharged with these devices. They also list some trusted rustproofers from Canada.
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