My car has got too much power already, and I wanna start working on little things to help get it off the line faster. What are the things that are necessary to run a 1.5 60ft? Other than a better driver, cause we're not getting one of those anytime soon

 

I would like to hear some secrets myself, I have cut some low 1.6's (1.612) <--my best, that was on a stock clutch I got a twin carbon now I hopeI can see 1.5's soon

 

How do you get to broadway....

J/K

Suspension, wheel/tire combo, less rotational mass, lsd, etc, etc...

Talk to Buschur about it and I'm sure he will give you some tips.

 

You can get some good headshots and start building your resume doing small off-off-broadway or touring company work. Then just keep auditioning and auditioning for the big stuff and eventually people know you. But of course you're never gonna get anywhere without talent.

Oddly similar to getting a good time.

You can get some good wheels and tires, strip the interior, motor mounts, coilovers. But it won't help unless you can drive.

I just got some falken azenis RT-615s and they're amazing. Not the best for drag but it makes turns so much fun.

I'm planning on doing the LSD when I get the shep T-Case, whenever I do that. But it'll be awhile before I have that kind of money. The car has S-Techs on it, and they suck, but are they better than stock? Have some motor mounts sitting in the garage waiting to go on. Any else I should look into?

 

I just cut a 1.59 two weekends ago on snow tires. I typically run 1.62-1.65, but the track was prepped better for NOPI. I'm on stock suspension, BR front motor mount, RRE no name clutch, and graspic 235-45-17s on the stock wheels with about 26 psi in them. I never hit 1.5s on the Advans, but I was getting 1.6s at the SO. I had one launch that could have been a low 1.6 or high 1.5 but the slip said .000.

I also ran Dunlop SP 4Ks in 225/50-17 size on my 2g, and got many 15s in that car with a best of 1.55. Not bad for all seasons on a cool night (40s IIRC). That car had adjustable suspension (Illuminas and GC coilovers, 450 lbs front 325 rear), and I set the rear to full soft at the track.

There really isn't any magic. I find it interesting that on two different cars, with different setups, and even on the same car with different tires, I cut similar 60 foot times. I run at the track at least once a week, and have beed going since I got the 2g back in 2000. Eventially my brain figured out how to launch, but doesn't really care to let me know what it is doing All I can say about the technique is that it's all in the clutch. I run a 5500 full throttle stutter almost invariably (6000 or 6250 if the track is ridiculously sticky, to help the clutch out), the rest is all in clutch pedal modulation. The trick is to use up enough clutch to not hit the tires too hard (soft tires/lower pressure and soft rear suspenion help here) but not so much clutch that you overheat and make it impossible for it to grab. I seem to only have that problem in Norwalk for some reason. Ultimately, I will faintly smell a little clutch on all my best 60 foots. People with non-organic clutches should have less trouble with this, but I will resever judgement until I try one myself.

Another thing that I find very helpful is to do a short burnout before the run. While the guy ahead is staging I go around the water box, and back up and straighten out. Once he leaves and I get the ok I come up on the stutterbox to full boost and come up hard on the clutch to get the tires to break free. After what feels like just a few revolutions of the tires I get out of it and stop the car just in time to line up. I'm not really sure why this helps me. It should clean the tires off a bit and put a little bit of heat into the disc, but I think the main benefit is probably that it reminds me of exactly where the engagement point is. All of my best 60 foots come after this short burnout.

Unfortunately, launching is a special art, and I'm afraid it only comes with time and repetition. There are some parts that help with the launch, but I think the best mod for most poeple really is just more seat time.

 

Off topic, but what are your engine mods? 122mph sounds pretty good on the stocker.

 

One thing to remember, too, is that you will see many people claim ridiculously low 60' times, but then the ET doesn't match the MPH for such a 60'. It can be affected by when you shift to 2nd or a faulty timer. You must not only look at the 60', but also the 330' as well as all the other splits, because they tell the whole truth. 60' is the most important part of getting a good ET, but way too many times I see this unbelievably low 60's with ETs that are not impressive at all.

For reference, my current best at this altitude (6000') is 12.30@107.99 with a 1.72 60'. I consistently run 12.3-12.4 @ 108-109 with mid 1.7s. You will see people claim low 1.6 60's who also run 12.3 but at 110 or higher - so they beat me by a full tenth on the 60' and ran 2-3mph faster, but ran the same time? Mmm, k.

Also, I ran 12.000@113 on a 1.66 60' as well as a 12.26@110 on a 1.66 60' at sea level. Notice, my 12.26 is only .04 quicker than my 12.30 but yet my mph was 2 higher. I really have no idea why...

 

i ran 4 consecutive 1.6 launches lowest being a 1.61 with ats triple and tires at 26 psi. its also a very streetable clutch. Its my dd

 

Yet, the ET is quite weak for that mph and a 1.61 60'....another good example of what I'm talking about.

 

I think a big part of that Warrtalon is the 1-2 shift. I can cut a good 60' all day long (I never leave the 1.6s) but the tranny simply will not let me shift 1-2 at full throttle at over 8k rpm very quickly. It needs to get a Shep rebuild, but I'm trying to hold off until the off season. Until then I shift it slowly to avoid missing the gear entirely and forfieting the run.

For an extreme example of the 1-2 shift's effect on ET we can look at my 2g. It was trapping 123 consistently while I was doing some fine tuning. By no lift shifting the 3-4 I picked up 3 mph and trapped 126 consistently (this shows just how laggy this setup was). The car was ETing in the low 12s with lazy 1.8 60 foots (again, just doing some tuning). Then when the logs looked good enough I NLTSed the 1-2 shift and ran 11.3 at 126. So the ET was nearly a second faster, and MPH did not change (still NTLSing the 3-4). This was on another lazy 1.8. Now, this is an extreme example for the sake of illustration, but I strongly feel that this is where a lot of ET is lost for most poeple. Looking at Curt Browns runs, his 1/8th mile ET is a good 8 tenths faster than mine and most poeple's. The 2 tenths 60' advantage he has will account for half of that being generous and applying the double rule (1 tenth of 60' is always worth at least 2 tenths at the end of the track). That still leaves a lot to be gained, presumably from the 1-2 shift. I am really looking forward to the shep rebuild and a more shift friendly clutch to see what kind of improvement I can make on the half track and 1320 ETs.

 

what setup?

 

Exactly. I have tinkered with the 1-2 shift point and seen a big difference at two different shift points.

 

06wwrs, sorry, I overlooked your question somehow. Most of the info can be found on my site. But the short version is that I'm on the stock turbo, tuning with DSMlink. All of the usual mods, like 272s, exhaust, etc. My best trap is really about 115 mph (12.09 et), the 122 is with nitrous. A friend had the better part of a nitrous kit collecting dust, so I thought I would try out DSMlink's nitrous controls. The motor is untouched aside from ARPs and the cams.

 

Gotcha. I thought this was stock turbo, all boost. Good #'s, non the less.

 

Thanks. I am still chasing 11s without the NOS. The only attempt since the 11.5 at 122 was at the SO and the car ran very poorly. Only change was the tires. Another local member with the same mods runs 11.7-11.8 at 117-119 without the nitrous, also with DSMlink, so that is what I am trying to match before I continue to udgrade.

Back on the topic of short times, I'm going to the track friday. First time at the local track on the Advans since I put those snow tires on this time last year. I'm curious to see how it sixty foots on these tires now that I've got the clutch in (installed around the same time as the snow tires last year).