Clutch Preload 101 how-to
#31
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Here's another good example that i rec'd back in 08 of how it's done.
I do miss that car as i'm sure Jake may as well...............then again maybe not lol!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-X8y5AI-fxQ
I do miss that car as i'm sure Jake may as well...............then again maybe not lol!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-X8y5AI-fxQ
#34
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Here's another good example that i rec'd back in 08 of how it's done.
I do miss that car as i'm sure Jake may as well...............then again maybe not lol!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-X8y5AI-fxQ
I do miss that car as i'm sure Jake may as well...............then again maybe not lol!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-X8y5AI-fxQ
Oh snap, where did you find that one? I've never seen that one pat! Thanks!
#35
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Were you the same guy that had the driveshaft explode on him at the 1000' mark which popped the car up in the air? If so, that was a scary vid to watch.
I can vouch for this method, as I've done it myself for many years with great success. One of the biggest advantages is that you build up a slight bit of momentum before the car actually trips the lights. I don't have time to explain the timing system in a drag race, but it works. Also, you are fully off the clutch when the car starts moving so you don't waste anytime feathering it out. The consistency is great as well as you are essentially 'dumping the clutch' when you are ready to move since the feathering to prevent shock has already taken place.
I do want to mention now that you shouldn't do this all day long with most clutches as it will definitely wear them out prematurely. If you have a QM, Tilton, etc high dollar carbon carbon clutch or serious race clutch go ahead and do this, the only effect you'll notice is disk wear. If you have an exedy twin BEWARE. It only takes one bad launch on a preload to roast your intermediate plate and cause issues with disengagement. Ask me how I know. lol. Cheap part, huge labor cost. To minimize the effect this has on your clutch, try to only preload for a second or two. Wait for the other guy to tree up before you hit your second staging light.
I can vouch for this method, as I've done it myself for many years with great success. One of the biggest advantages is that you build up a slight bit of momentum before the car actually trips the lights. I don't have time to explain the timing system in a drag race, but it works. Also, you are fully off the clutch when the car starts moving so you don't waste anytime feathering it out. The consistency is great as well as you are essentially 'dumping the clutch' when you are ready to move since the feathering to prevent shock has already taken place.
I do want to mention now that you shouldn't do this all day long with most clutches as it will definitely wear them out prematurely. If you have a QM, Tilton, etc high dollar carbon carbon clutch or serious race clutch go ahead and do this, the only effect you'll notice is disk wear. If you have an exedy twin BEWARE. It only takes one bad launch on a preload to roast your intermediate plate and cause issues with disengagement. Ask me how I know. lol. Cheap part, huge labor cost. To minimize the effect this has on your clutch, try to only preload for a second or two. Wait for the other guy to tree up before you hit your second staging light.
#36
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When you are about to pre-stage you pull up the e-break push down the clutch get to your 2-step is barely on. Bump the e-break down a little while slipping the clutch to get to the pre-stage light to come on. Now where you had the clutch at while staging kept it their while having the e-break all the way up. Everything is per-loaded and any ready to rock. Is this what you mean? I see where a CNC would be easier for this.
No, You bring the clutch OUT to where the clutch starts to barely grab and you feel the car barely move, pull the ebrake up and leave the clutch where it was (that friction point) put the car on the 2step, then when ready, release the e-brake and the car will start to move. Once you feel the car move after you have released the e-brake let the clutch out, doesn't need to be a fast clutch let out. Just a nice smooth release.
#37
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Yup, soul reason why I parted the talon out. It did over $12,000 worth of damage. It was the t-case that seized up at almost 150mph. T-case broke off and took half the bell housing off of my dogbox and tumbled under the car ripping holes in the floor bored, then got stuck between the rear part of the drive shaft and floor board and bent the driveshaft damn near in half. Then it kicked out and punched through my gas tank and fuel went everywhere.
Needless to say it was a wild ride and scared the wits out of me lol.
As far as pre-loading, you are absolutely correct. I've seen people try to pre-load way to heavily and smoke the clutch or floater plate. No reason to pre load that much, just a little bit gets the job done.
I don't recommend to people doing this on the street or on a daily basis. At the track it's fine since you get maybe 3-5 runs at the track.
The way I always did it was I didn't start pre-loading until I was up on the 2step in the prestage. I would bring it up on the 2step, then start bringing the clutch out, then used the hand brake to bump into the stage.
And single disc clutches will burn up extremely quick doing this, unless you know what your doing.
Thanks for the input man.
Needless to say it was a wild ride and scared the wits out of me lol.
As far as pre-loading, you are absolutely correct. I've seen people try to pre-load way to heavily and smoke the clutch or floater plate. No reason to pre load that much, just a little bit gets the job done.
I don't recommend to people doing this on the street or on a daily basis. At the track it's fine since you get maybe 3-5 runs at the track.
The way I always did it was I didn't start pre-loading until I was up on the 2step in the prestage. I would bring it up on the 2step, then start bringing the clutch out, then used the hand brake to bump into the stage.
And single disc clutches will burn up extremely quick doing this, unless you know what your doing.
Thanks for the input man.
Were you the same guy that had the driveshaft explode on him at the 1000' mark which popped the car up in the air? If so, that was a scary vid to watch.
I can vouch for this method, as I've done it myself for many years with great success. One of the biggest advantages is that you build up a slight bit of momentum before the car actually trips the lights. I don't have time to explain the timing system in a drag race, but it works. Also, you are fully off the clutch when the car starts moving so you don't waste anytime feathering it out. The consistency is great as well as you are essentially 'dumping the clutch' when you are ready to move since the feathering to prevent shock has already taken place.
I do want to mention now that you shouldn't do this all day long with most clutches as it will definitely wear them out prematurely. If you have a QM, Tilton, etc high dollar carbon carbon clutch or serious race clutch go ahead and do this, the only effect you'll notice is disk wear. If you have an exedy twin BEWARE. It only takes one bad launch on a preload to roast your intermediate plate and cause issues with disengagement. Ask me how I know. lol. Cheap part, huge labor cost. To minimize the effect this has on your clutch, try to only preload for a second or two. Wait for the other guy to tree up before you hit your second staging light.
I can vouch for this method, as I've done it myself for many years with great success. One of the biggest advantages is that you build up a slight bit of momentum before the car actually trips the lights. I don't have time to explain the timing system in a drag race, but it works. Also, you are fully off the clutch when the car starts moving so you don't waste anytime feathering it out. The consistency is great as well as you are essentially 'dumping the clutch' when you are ready to move since the feathering to prevent shock has already taken place.
I do want to mention now that you shouldn't do this all day long with most clutches as it will definitely wear them out prematurely. If you have a QM, Tilton, etc high dollar carbon carbon clutch or serious race clutch go ahead and do this, the only effect you'll notice is disk wear. If you have an exedy twin BEWARE. It only takes one bad launch on a preload to roast your intermediate plate and cause issues with disengagement. Ask me how I know. lol. Cheap part, huge labor cost. To minimize the effect this has on your clutch, try to only preload for a second or two. Wait for the other guy to tree up before you hit your second staging light.
Last edited by evodude32; May 25, 2011 at 11:17 AM.
#42
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Oh god, don't remind please lol. Note to self, NEVER BUY AFTERMARKET U-JOINTS!! lol. After that one broke, I started using OEM u-joints, never had an OEM mitsu u-joint come apart on me. That day just sucked all together haha
#44
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Here's another good example that i rec'd back in 08 of how it's done.
I do miss that car as i'm sure Jake may as well...............then again maybe not lol!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-X8y5AI-fxQ
I do miss that car as i'm sure Jake may as well...............then again maybe not lol!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-X8y5AI-fxQ