Wheel Hop - Locked out of 2nd Gear
 

My car: 03 Evo GSR - 2.3 w/ balance shafts removed- FP Black - 620 WHP 550 WTQ
Shep built trans and transfercase with wavetrac LSD - Exedy Triple Disc
Stock shocks/struts with Tein S - Tech springs
Avid poly front motor mount and Ingalls torque dampner.
Dunlop Direzza ZII star specs on stock enkeis (PSI was initially filled to 23 but checking the next day most of my tires were in the 15-17 psi range)

My best 60' was a 1.900 (my first run)
My best E.T. was a 11.997 at 125.15 with a 2.082 60'

So I went to the track for the first time in about 2.5 years a few weeks ago and did a lot worse than I would expect. The main reason for this being is that I was locked out of second gear on all of my runs. I would launch with my 2 step from 6K RPM, take off and attempt to shift around 8800-9000. I would then be locked out until I let off and by then my car would be nose diving and I would get stuck playing catch up. I also noticed I was getting BAD wheel hop as in I'm astonished I didn't break anything (thank you shep drivetrain components!). I tested to see if it was just bad shifting on my part and on one of my runs pushed the clutch pedal all the way down and tried yanking the car into second and still was locked out. Note that when I am driving normally or cruising around town or am already at a roll I am able to shift in to second just fine. It is off the launch where I was getting locked out.

Are the reasons for my issues the tire pressure? Tires? Do I need side motor mounts? Coilovers? This has really been bothering me and I appreciate any tips! Thanks!

I believe I listed everything above that could be factors in my wheel hop.

probably 3 fold issues. One, the wheel hop will cause lock out. Two, if you try to shift 1-2 while you're spinning first, you will almost always get locked out. Three, a 2.3 revving to 8800-9000 could be causing enough harmonics to flex the clutch disc and the clutch isn't fully disengaging.

Why would it lock me out if the tires are spinning? Also I suppose I should have added that my motor is the buschur 2.3RPM motor (for higher revving) and I also have a fluidampr. Although I do feel like the knock generated from the 2 step and the stroked motor may not be helping with my lockout issue, but it's all just speculation from my end.

Do you guys think tires and side motor mounts would fix my issue? Any tire recommendations? I read that getting to sticky of a tire adds excessive stress to the drivetrain and I just worry my stock driveshaft will not hold up. Appreciate the advice!

The tires are the stock tire dimensions, but I do know my dunlops have stiff sidewalls, which I read is the opposite of what you want for drag racing. I also have a front motor mount, which most people say is enough but also not sure if most people saying that are at the 600+ hp level.

How could I verify that my clutch is fully disengaging? The pedal adjustment was checked in the past 2 years and slave was bled and replaced with the clutch line with an STM upper and lower stainless steel line. Thanks for the advice

Does anyone know if my 2 step is set to high at 6000, given that my powerband comes on quicker since I have a 2.3?

It locks out when the tires are spinning because it just does. If you try the 1-2 with the tires spinning, you have to ease it in. the 2.3rpm is just lighter components. Its not like piston speed was magically lowered, or the poor rod angle was some how fixed. I still wouldn't rev it past 8.

Motor mounts and a set of drag radials or Hoosier QTP's would be a good idea if you are serious about drag racing. The driveshaft will be fine.

9 grand on a 2.3 Yikes! Listen to ^ he knows what hes talking about.

Have any recommendations on drag radials that fit the stock enkeis? I was looking at the MH's but open to other tires that will do the job.

The MH's are really good. Hoosier makes one as well. I'm not really a drag racing guy so I can't say for sure which is better. lol

If you plan on drag racing the car often, I would try and avoid a drag radial. If budget allows, find 16x8 FD RX7 wheels so you can run bias ply cheater slicks such as Hoosier QTP's. Those will keep the drivetrain much happier than any radial.

6K seems high for a 2.3 and FP black. What cams and intake manifold are on the car? How much boost are you launching at? I would lower the 2 step and keep the car in 1st gear on the limiter until you feel it regain traction.

The stock suspension is awesome for launching. No need for coilovers at your level.

Does it matter if I get the reinforced or non-reinforced FD wheels? Is one better than the other? I know the non-reinforced weighs less. I am running kelford 272 cams and a ported stock intake manifold. I also agree that I think I should lower the 2 step. I'm not sure how much boost I am launching at but probably building to much for street tires. My max boost I put out is 39 psi though. I'm still on stock ECU and run a MAF. Also I don't have a rev limiter set so that can complicate things 🤷*♂️

The higher the rpm you shift at, the more rpm of the input shaft has to drop to match output shaft speed in the next gear. If you are spinning first, then you are also slowing the output shaft when you shift because the tires slow down to ground speed. This makes the required input shaft rpm drop even bigger. The synchros are what do the work to match the input shaft speed. You may have a weak 2nd gear synchro, the clutch may be dragging, or the rpm drop is just too much to expect the synchro to handle on a quick shift due to wheel spin.