NLTS worked 'great' for me...
Tell that to the guy who will soak his cylinders with fuel while stationary rev limiting at the tree and washes away all of the oil on the cylinder walls. Sometimes people will hold their launch RPM for nearly 5+ seconds. Not a smart idea for launch conditions at least.
I have actually sat on a spark cut rev limiter for 10+ seconds. Phenem here has also sat on a spark cut rev limiter for quite a while as well. We are talking alternating cylinder spark cut. Research soft spark cuts. My unit is a Dynatek, research and understand exactly what is going on here. You are scaring people about something they don't need to be scared about.
If you want me to proove it to you I will take a video of me sitting on the spark cut rev limiter for 15 seconds for you. If interested PM me and I'll email it to you this weekend.
I might have found something that helped the headgasket go out easier. Putting it back together, one of the studs stretched when I was doing the final torque sequence. I don't know, however, if it was the stud from the cylinder where the gasket blew out or not, since I took all the studs out to clean the block off.
I got a Felpro headgasket from NAPA (wanted to get it together right away), hopefully it lasts longer than this ebay one did.
I got a Felpro headgasket from NAPA (wanted to get it together right away), hopefully it lasts longer than this ebay one did.
Last edited by jrohner; Aug 31, 2009 at 08:00 PM.
I'm going off of memory here from my DSM days, but I always remembered people saying to stay away from the Felpro HGs. Maybe using cheap gaskets is your issue. Just buy yourself a stock Mitsu gasket and do it once and not worry about it. I know you want to get it together quickly, but I think you'd rather avoid the issue again.
There is a reason almost all of the top motor building shops exclusively use the stock Mitsu HG....it works, even at 1000+whp and INSANE boost levels.
ARP head studs + Mitsu HG = peace of mind
Last edited by Jack_of_Trades; Sep 1, 2009 at 09:25 PM.
I'm going off of memory here from my DSM days, but I always remembered people saying to stay away from the Felpro HGs. Maybe using cheap gaskets is your issue. Just buy yourself a stock Mitsu gasket and do it once and not worry about it. I know you want to get it together quickly, but I think you'd rather avoid the issue again.
Looking on tuners, I've heard both ways about every gasket, including this one. If it goes, I'll get a Cometic and a new set of head studs, get my head cut and put in new SS valves while I'm at it.
I got it back together, robbing one head stud from another engine I have together waiting to go in a car. No coolant push and it runs great. I don't think I'm even going to mess with NLTS again until I rig up a different type of clutch switch because this one sucks having to be totally off the pedal before the NLTS rev limiter quits.
I got it back together, robbing one head stud from another engine I have together waiting to go in a car. No coolant push and it runs great. I don't think I'm even going to mess with NLTS again until I rig up a different type of clutch switch because this one sucks having to be totally off the pedal before the NLTS rev limiter quits.
Last edited by jrohner; Sep 2, 2009 at 07:25 PM.
why don't you try adjusting the switch?
I believe they are threaded, that way you can do the 'garage test' and get the pedal to what you think should be a good engagement/disengagement point for NLTS...
I believe they are threaded, that way you can do the 'garage test' and get the pedal to what you think should be a good engagement/disengagement point for NLTS...




