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NLTS worked 'great' for me...

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Old Aug 30, 2009 | 11:54 AM
  #16  
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From: Fairfax
Are you sure you copied all the maps over correctly? Maybe you hit some strange cells that weren't tuned properly between shifts? Sounds like a bad coincidence to me though...
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Old Aug 30, 2009 | 12:15 PM
  #17  
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From: Willmar MN
There was nothing to copy. I just enabled NLTS (changing a 0 to a 1 in the tephramod option) on the same rom I've been running for a couple months.
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Old Aug 30, 2009 | 12:47 PM
  #18  
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From: central pa
Originally Posted by Jack_of_Trades
Tell that to the guy who will soak his cylinders with fuel while stationary rev limiting at the tree and washes away all of the oil on the cylinder walls. Sometimes people will hold their launch RPM for nearly 5+ seconds. Not a smart idea for launch conditions at least.

I have actually sat on a spark cut rev limiter for 10+ seconds. Phenem here has also sat on a spark cut rev limiter for quite a while as well. We are talking alternating cylinder spark cut. Research soft spark cuts. My unit is a Dynatek, research and understand exactly what is going on here. You are scaring people about something they don't need to be scared about.

If you want me to proove it to you I will take a video of me sitting on the spark cut rev limiter for 15 seconds for you. If interested PM me and I'll email it to you this weekend.
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Old Aug 30, 2009 | 02:56 PM
  #19  
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Did you just switch over to the speed density patch?
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Old Aug 30, 2009 | 09:28 PM
  #20  
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From: Willmar MN
Originally Posted by 03whitegsr
Did you just switch over to the speed density patch?
A couple months ago probably.
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Old Aug 30, 2009 | 09:55 PM
  #21  
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hrmm sorry to hear about that.

did you log the event? would have been educational to see what occurred...
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Old Aug 31, 2009 | 07:58 PM
  #22  
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From: Willmar MN
I might have found something that helped the headgasket go out easier. Putting it back together, one of the studs stretched when I was doing the final torque sequence. I don't know, however, if it was the stud from the cylinder where the gasket blew out or not, since I took all the studs out to clean the block off.

I got a Felpro headgasket from NAPA (wanted to get it together right away), hopefully it lasts longer than this ebay one did.

Last edited by jrohner; Aug 31, 2009 at 08:00 PM.
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Old Sep 1, 2009 | 06:21 AM
  #23  
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I'm going off of memory here from my DSM days, but I always remembered people saying to stay away from the Felpro HGs. Maybe using cheap gaskets is your issue. Just buy yourself a stock Mitsu gasket and do it once and not worry about it. I know you want to get it together quickly, but I think you'd rather avoid the issue again.
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Old Sep 1, 2009 | 06:35 AM
  #24  
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From: Opelika,AL
Originally Posted by l2r99gst
Just buy yourself a stock Mitsu gasket and do it once and not worry about it.
+1

There is a reason almost all of the top motor building shops exclusively use the stock Mitsu HG....it works, even at 1000+whp and INSANE boost levels.

ARP head studs + Mitsu HG = peace of mind

Last edited by Jack_of_Trades; Sep 1, 2009 at 09:25 PM.
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Old Sep 1, 2009 | 11:38 AM
  #25  
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From: Minneapolis
Why does everyone insist on testing NLTS at WOT@7000rpm?

I think I will make a whole new thread about this. Try it at like 4000rpm first few times
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Old Sep 1, 2009 | 08:56 PM
  #26  
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From: Willmar MN
I tried it many times first at like 3 grand or so. This was the first time with some RPM and boost; I was still conservative at only probably 6 grand or so, and 22psi.
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Old Sep 2, 2009 | 02:19 PM
  #27  
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From: Coatesville PA
Originally Posted by l2r99gst
I'm going off of memory here from my DSM days, but I always remembered people saying to stay away from the Felpro HGs. Maybe using cheap gaskets is your issue. Just buy yourself a stock Mitsu gasket and do it once and not worry about it. I know you want to get it together quickly, but I think you'd rather avoid the issue again.
Definitely. Felpro does not hold up to boost.
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Old Sep 2, 2009 | 07:23 PM
  #28  
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From: Willmar MN
Looking on tuners, I've heard both ways about every gasket, including this one. If it goes, I'll get a Cometic and a new set of head studs, get my head cut and put in new SS valves while I'm at it.


I got it back together, robbing one head stud from another engine I have together waiting to go in a car. No coolant push and it runs great. I don't think I'm even going to mess with NLTS again until I rig up a different type of clutch switch because this one sucks having to be totally off the pedal before the NLTS rev limiter quits.

Last edited by jrohner; Sep 2, 2009 at 07:25 PM.
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Old Sep 2, 2009 | 07:24 PM
  #29  
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why don't you try adjusting the switch?

I believe they are threaded, that way you can do the 'garage test' and get the pedal to what you think should be a good engagement/disengagement point for NLTS...
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Old Sep 2, 2009 | 07:27 PM
  #30  
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From: Willmar MN
If I turn it in even 1/4 of a turn more, then I know my clutch will pump up -- I have it adjusted as far as I can and still be able to push the slave cylinder in.
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