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Old Dec 30, 2011 | 12:38 PM
  #16  
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Hyper, awsome mate....

When i added that coding, all the options orignally were FFFF but..... ??? whats that mean?

heres the settings that i will be testing NLTS on.... i just need to wire the switch when i get spare time !!!


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Old Dec 30, 2011 | 03:20 PM
  #17  
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The xml I added was for 96260709 only sorry (the 7 denotes Tephra Mod V7).

I've had a look through a the disassembly of your rom Prolifik, but I'm only learning so I haven't figured out how to change it yet. I'm not guaranteeing that I will figure it out either, but I haven't given up.
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Old Dec 30, 2011 | 04:42 PM
  #18  
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so for 96260012, the stuff u posted will do what exactly???

whats the difference with all these roms and so forth?? there are so many? do they do different things?
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Old Dec 30, 2011 | 06:57 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Prolifik
so for 96260012, the stuff u posted will do what exactly???

whats the difference with all these roms and so forth?? there are so many? do they do different things?
The fix will do nothing best case scenario, and worst case it will do damage.

There have been so many revisions of the Evo over the years to both improve it and to cater for differing levels of regulations around the world. So Mitsubishi engineers insert and delete code all over the place to suit.
My fix for NLTS is looking at a specific location in the rom. This location, because of what I described above, is different in many, if not all roms. Hence why EvoM's biggest contributors push for everyone to use the same rom when using things like Tephra's mods. Easier to patch one rom and have everyone adapt than make many variations of the mods.

Sorry for going off-topic! This forum is loaded with info, and there's a lot to get your head around. I sit for hours sometimes and don't solve my problems. As well as EvoM, there's:

http://evoecu.logic.net/wiki/Main_Page
http://evoecu.logic.net/wiki/TephraMod

Like you, my stock rom (93660005) is not very well supported, so I ported over to 96260709.
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Old Dec 30, 2011 | 07:44 PM
  #20  
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so i just get the 0709 rom and transfer over all the date from my 0012 ???
its that simple?
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Old Dec 30, 2011 | 10:06 PM
  #21  
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You'll have to put it through the BIGMAPS translator first, then log and check/fine tune the fuel/ign maps.
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Old Dec 30, 2011 | 10:49 PM
  #22  
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Where do i get the ROM and XML from with tephra on it?
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Old Dec 31, 2011 | 02:11 AM
  #23  
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From Tephra....
Donate PayPal to tephra@gmail.com, then email him and he'll send it.
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Old Jan 4, 2012 | 08:16 AM
  #24  
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I'm on rom 96530706, V7, so I guess it should work the same?
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Old Jan 4, 2012 | 11:25 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by audiofan
I'm on rom 96530706, V7, so I guess it should work the same?
Oh wow, yeah it does look like it will work.

First, wire up your clutch switch to pin 88, then log B8 in evoscan (B8 should be 8895 in your MUT table) to make sure that it activates at least one bit. I think bits two and three activate.

If that all works, apply the fix
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Old Mar 19, 2012 | 06:38 PM
  #26  
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hi
iv been trying to connect nlts over the last few day. i have got a clutch switch and added the data to my 96260709 xml. i have also added a pin to number 88 on the ecu. so i decided to get out the old multi meter to check the pin befor i wired it to the switch. and whaty i found is that with the car running pin 88 is putting out 14v. it is a 8mr ecu 3 plug so i dont know what i have done wrong. please help

Thanks Neal
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Old Mar 20, 2012 | 12:54 AM
  #27  
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Hey Neal,

The idea with the clutch switch is to ground pin 88 whenever you're on the clutch, so when it's not grounded it will be high (14V as it turns out). If you want, you can put a resistor in series with the clutch switch if you're concerned about short circuiting.
To be honest, when I first got this going I overlooked the resistor. I think it's been well over a year since I installed it, and the ECU's still happy
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Old Mar 20, 2012 | 06:41 PM
  #28  
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The stationary test did not work for me. It only began working once I started to drive and it felt like I hit a brick wall just like you are talking about. I even ended up stalling out at a stop sign when I attempted to leave it because I lifted. I then went home and changed my settings back to the normal NLTS and gave it a try with actual settings. I had to man up and do a full throttle test of it after that. It worked like a charm as long as I held my foot flat.

Your car will bog out unless you keep the NLTS active. If you let your foot of the pedal attempting to shift normally, it will cut out/bog.
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Old Mar 20, 2012 | 07:19 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by mt057
The stationary test did not work for me. It only began working once I started to drive and it felt like I hit a brick wall just like you are talking about. I even ended up stalling out at a stop sign when I attempted to leave it because I lifted. I then went home and changed my settings back to the normal NLTS and gave it a try with actual settings. I had to man up and do a full throttle test of it after that. It worked like a charm as long as I held my foot flat.

Your car will bog out unless you keep the NLTS active. If you let your foot of the pedal attempting to shift normally, it will cut out/bog.
The settings I use for day-to-day are:
RPM drop = 800
TPS threshold = 85%
Speed threshold = 30 km/h
Load threshold = 110%

It's never activated on me unintentionally with these settings. For the stationary test, set the TPS threshold to about 20%, and speed to 0. Don't try drive with the stationary settings!
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Old Mar 20, 2012 | 07:48 PM
  #30  
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i too could not get the stationary setting to work i have not yet driven the car. i just would like to confirm that in the tephra options section i have my alternate maps on 2 ics and nlts on 1 acdof. is this all correct.

I should let you know that i have ran evoscan and can see the clutch switch switching from 201 to 203
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