400hp EVO's need help
 

Numerous Evo 8-9's w/ spark blow-out, and or, ignition cut under high loads.
The list goes on and on.
Evo 8, running Greddy T67, front mount, 272 cams, hiccup under high boost. Using Mitsuscan, load is over 325 units.
Using Greddy #9's spark plugs, still hiccups, ignition break up. We have tried new coil packs, tried new MAF, tried knew MAP sensor....
AM I JUST HITTING BOOST CUT? Boost cut is 319, I am well over that. BUt it's not a 'CUT', is a hiccup.
I post this, cause there are several EVO's running same setup, and facing the same situation. It seems ignition. I have tried everthing, except aftermarket coil packs.
But all of these EVO's are Ecuflash tuned. Is there something we are missing????
New coil packs, new maf, perfect air/fuels, cold plugs.... what is left???

Absubtle

Gap the plugs to .020

If this doesnt seem to work, the only thing I found was hotter ignition (I was on a Green with S1s at 33psi). I went to COP to cure it. It is not boost cut to be sure, its spark blow out and I have seen another stock coiled T67 cars do it. The cool thing is it was an AEM car and you can crank the dwell to charge the coil longer and make it act bigger.

I would also get rid of those greddy plugs, espically on 8's.

i am having the same problem..
right around 27psi the spark blows out,,
no way around it, my next mod will be a buschur cop ignition..

What are your AFR's before the hiccup?

I am running the Green and had the same problem. I gapped the plugs smaller and havn't had an issue since. Get rid of the Greddy plugs. NGK all the way.

Stock heat range Iridiums definitely seem to be the way to go. Even gapped down though, I'd run into issues with my Green in the 345-350% range. No matter what AFR I had it at whether 11.5 or 12.5 on C16 it didnt want to light off 33-35psi well.

I may need to add more info, tuned the car on our dyno (Land & Sea load-bearing AWD), it made 435hp-to-wheels @ 26 psi. It's running 11:1 air/fuels... AND it still is, while figuring out this problem.
Shipped the car, customer drove it to Texas for a month, drove the **** out of it. Let cousin drive it, and... Boom ignition cut. They replace spark plugs, drives fine until it hits Rocky Mountain Air! Right around 6000ft of elevation.
Now I can get the car to hiccup at 25 psi on the dyno. Turn the boost down to 22-23psi, it runs smoooth.
So what's up? It was tuned fine. It ran fine, now it's a chronic condition, even using different ignition parts....
Doesn't make any sense. I can use some copper plugs, but I don't think it will fix it. I have spent days w/ this car on a dyno... w/ the same out come.
Cam gears are adjusted alittle, but again, the car was tuned w/ the same setup w/o any problems. A month later, it has a cancer I need to get rid of.
I did a comp test, equal across.
I am running out of ideas.

Absubtle

whats your gap at? i'm at 30 psi on the 35r with meth. stock coils, stock ecu, stock plug wires, and denso irridium 8 heat range plugs gapped to .023. no miss fire for the first 8k miles with this setup. DLL shows around 500whp

Strange. I'm running stock ecu, plugs, wires and NGK BR8ES gapped at .024. Smooth as silk running e85 at 30psi and loads around 320 (2 byte).

Could it perhaps be a sticking injector? What IDC are you running at those loads?

Not sure if you have seen these Greddy 9 spark plugs... It reminds me of a rotary-type spark plug. The complete electrode is buried. They welded the ground strap to the bottom of the outer-portion of the threaded-portion of the plug. I didn't check the gap but, if it's .020, it would be lucky.
I can't seem to find a failure of any stock part.
I have seen numerous coil packs go out, we have a fresh set, in stock, because of that.
I have replaced everything that I can think of, w/ good-working parts, and no love.
Like I have said before, this car has had 1000 miles, at least, and then, all-of-a-sudden, this issue.
Grounding issue? Try grounding system?
DId comp test, it's fine. No boost leaks. Air/fuel ratio is 10.8-11.2's. I havent checked IDC, but on Mitsuscan, we are around 16ms, at peak torque.
The injectors are RC 750cc. Walbro 255 pump.

Running out of ideas, retarded timing, zerod cam gears, bypassed EIDS, tested w/ new maf, tried a variety of different plugs (heat range, material-type, manufacture) w/ varing degree of plug gap.

Gonna try earth grounding kit.... maybe call Ms Cleo for a heads-up, and go from there.

Thanks for all the ideas!
Absubtle
CO

Have you tried putting a set of BPR8ES gapped to .024 or so just to check?

They are cheap.

I've run 8's and 9's with GT35's and GT30's at 27-29psi with stock ignition system, and "normal" plugs with no issues

I will try those plugs on Monday, I will have it back on the dyno. I am going to try a grounding kit, also. I wish I had an aftermarket coil pack upgrade to test, but that may be later.
I hope something changes atleast, this is a bad condition at over 400hp.... Repeated, as testing requires...
This sucks.
Absubtle

I suppose this car is haunted. I used those BPR8ES. It changed my complete air/fuel ratio's on ramp up. After boost comes on, we are good.
But I threw the NGK(Greddy) 9's spark plugs again, and the car did the same thing.
This has been a long week.... very long, trying to figure out this EVO. We are pulling thru the dyno run now, clean.......except we have high knock. Like lot's of knock w/o timing. -8 degrees w/ 340% load, and a knock count of 10.
But, pull another run, it runs 6 degrees of timing, in that same area, and no knock.
The motor is sound, I can do a pull with the same amount of boost and make 430hp, and second run, I can make 280hp, not at peak, cause I shut-down the dyno pull.
The engine sounds very, very good, when running right... NOW AT THAT MOMENT. BUt timing being pulled (due to low octane timing map), and timing I have pulled (due to high knock count), has cost the performance of this EVO, and a jerkiness at higher revs (which a smart person should let-off the GO pedal).

Knock sensor super sensitive? External wastegate causing feedback? Plugs look good, always have.

Again thanks for a glance at my problem, **** happens... and on this car I am down hill

Absubtle
CO

Sounds to me that you have too much seperation between your low and high maps. They both have to be tuned to make the car run great. Heck, when all this tuning became so popular a certain mail in ecu flash company made my low and high maps exactly the same. I have since changed them to fit my current mods.

You might consider starting with a base line map and start over with your tuning. I know this sucks, but with your problems this could be the best solution.

I recommend the JDM Ralliart map. It is a very good starting point and won't require too much tweeking to the the air fuels in check. The timing maps....that is a different story. There is a lot of power to be found in the timing maps.

Paul