post your maps here
#31
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Originally Posted by Evo_Kid
There is already a website that has a library of ECUFlash maps.
Right now there is basically no EVO maps, but they have a vast librabry of Subaru maps.
We should start posting EVO maps there. You have to register to see/download/add maps.
http://www.osecuroms.org/
Right now there is basically no EVO maps, but they have a vast librabry of Subaru maps.
We should start posting EVO maps there. You have to register to see/download/add maps.
http://www.osecuroms.org/
#33
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Originally Posted by Evo_Kid
Hey hows that Modified map. Got anymore info on it, like boost in lbs and what kinda gas your useing.
it will hit just over 1.3 bar settle to 1.25 by 3500 and hold that til approx 5500-6000 where it drops to 1.1 bar by 7000. now keep in mind this is what the stock quage is reading and I intentionaly did not try to increase boost over stock peak, just eliminate some taper which it did pretty well. it pulls much flatter to 6k than before.
before it would pull hard from 3300 to 4500 then just seemed to peter out.
that will be the extent of my flash changes til I have my wideband installed and some of the kinks are worked out of evoscan
PS in 10 or so logged pulls I only ran into anything other than 0 for knock in evoscan once on part throttle that I think may have been a decel moment. it was a 2 and it lasted about 1 second.
I will update the post there with these details tomorow
I am not a seasoned pro at this. use my info at your own risk
Last edited by andenbre; Jun 28, 2006 at 09:45 PM.
#34
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Originally Posted by andenbre
I run mostly BP/Amoco Ultimate 93 sometimes Shell V-Power 93 also.
it will hit just over 1.3 bar settle to 1.25 by 3500 and hold that til approx 5500-6000 where it drops to 1.1 bar by 7000. now keep in mind this is what the stock quage is reading and I intentionaly did not try to increase boost over stock peak, just eliminate some taper which it did pretty well. it pulls much flatter to 6k than before.
before it would pull hard from 3300 to 4500 then just seemed to peter out.
that will be the extent of my flash changes til I have my wideband installed and some of the kinks are worked out of evoscan
PS in 10 or so logged pulls I only ran into anything other than 0 for knock in evoscan once on part throttle that I think may have been a decel moment. it was a 2 and it lasted about 1 second.
I will update the post there with these details tomorow
I am not a seasoned pro at this. use my info at your own risk
it will hit just over 1.3 bar settle to 1.25 by 3500 and hold that til approx 5500-6000 where it drops to 1.1 bar by 7000. now keep in mind this is what the stock quage is reading and I intentionaly did not try to increase boost over stock peak, just eliminate some taper which it did pretty well. it pulls much flatter to 6k than before.
before it would pull hard from 3300 to 4500 then just seemed to peter out.
that will be the extent of my flash changes til I have my wideband installed and some of the kinks are worked out of evoscan
PS in 10 or so logged pulls I only ran into anything other than 0 for knock in evoscan once on part throttle that I think may have been a decel moment. it was a 2 and it lasted about 1 second.
I will update the post there with these details tomorow
I am not a seasoned pro at this. use my info at your own risk
Yep, basically you got rid of the taper.
Just like you, something like this (little boost modification) will also be the extent of my flashing until a patch harness is available (have zeitronix) or EVOScan is at a better version.
#35
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Originally Posted by AMS
Check out these sweet maps
http://supraforums.com/forum/showthr...&page=11&pp=25
What your timing map shouldn't look like.
http://supraforums.com/forum/showthr...&page=11&pp=25
What your timing map shouldn't look like.
Happy tuning, be safe, and BE SMART.
- Steve
#39
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Originally Posted by SuperHatch
Sorry Martin, that thread was deleted. But there was good technical info in there. Everyone tuning their ECUs. Do NOT select all the timing cells in the high load high RPM area in one group and change them all to 8. One tuner might tell you that's a good idea and will "make a smooth one bra", but it's not worth it. Also, don't copy your low det timing map onto your high det timing map, that's a bad idea too. If you get any detonation your car won't run less timing.
Happy tuning, be safe, and BE SMART.
- Steve
Happy tuning, be safe, and BE SMART.
- Steve
#40
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Originally Posted by elhalisf
i disagree with you on that. the car WILL pull timing if it sees knock. for every 3 knock counts it pulls one degree of timing. the low octane maps are there if the ecu sees excessive knock for a prolonged period. i think it is a good idea to have both of them the same because the ecu will simply pull the timing, and wont be stuck on a low performance map for a while.
I suppose some ppl enjoy playing russian roulette with their cylinders.
l8r)
#41
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Originally Posted by MalibuJack
For your own security, I wouldn't post your Immobilizer code, also, if you make the immobilizer FFFF, its a clear reminder (Though I was actually told using FFFF will allow the ECU to bypass the immobilizer, but I'm not so sure about that and haven't had an opportunity to try it)
There are 65536 possible immobilizer codes, probably a few reserved codes not used..
There are 65536 possible immobilizer codes, probably a few reserved codes not used..
Sean
#42
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Originally Posted by elhalisf
i disagree with you on that. the car WILL pull timing if it sees knock. for every 3 knock counts it pulls one degree of timing. the low octane maps are there if the ecu sees excessive knock for a prolonged period. i think it is a good idea to have both of them the same because the ecu will simply pull the timing, and wont be stuck on a low performance map for a while.
That thread on Supraforums got insanely out of hand, but it really gave some of us a different outlook on certain companies and the men behind them. I'm surprised noone got banned for it.
#44
ok i have been wondering and want to get a clear answer, will the computer run on the high octane map until it sees a certain amount of knock(how much) and then pull timing from the high octane map for a period of time(if so how much determines a switch to low) or just switch to the low octane map, and can it pull timing lower than the low octane map
also i think we should start a thread with a bunch of questions like this one about the characteristics of the evo ecu such as fuel map changing also and so on
so any insight to my question and ideas about questions for a thread would be great, thanks guys
also i think we should start a thread with a bunch of questions like this one about the characteristics of the evo ecu such as fuel map changing also and so on
so any insight to my question and ideas about questions for a thread would be great, thanks guys
#45
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Originally Posted by elhalisf
i disagree with you on that. the car WILL pull timing if it sees knock. for every 3 knock counts it pulls one degree of timing. the low octane maps are there if the ecu sees excessive knock for a prolonged period. i think it is a good idea to have both of them the same because the ecu will simply pull the timing, and wont be stuck on a low performance map for a while.
As you have very correctly stated here - the ecu pulls timing immediately regadless of what is entered in either the low or high octane maps IF the knock count goes beyond the amounts specified in the remainder of the tuning calibration
IN MANY cases it is prudent to maintain the low and high octane maps similar becuase wide vartiations can trigger other tuning issues that can result in problems which some users have reported (such as the guy who was having timing pulled even though he disconnected the knock sensor)
UNLESS your tuner is a total buffon or unless your engine is ready to blow up immediately - A PROPERLY TUNED EVO WILL NEVER run in the low octane map AT ALL
99.9999 % of evos I tune run all the time in the high octane map
Depending on the modifications employed on a particular car I may lower the low octane map a degree or two - however - when I do it and when I do not and particularly WHY is not a subject I wish to discuss
ONE important point to realize is that YOU WILL hold more and smoother timing and make more TQ and power IF the knock count does NOT trigger knock retard by the stock ecu. With stock ecus - (unlike stand alone ecus) it is very important to tune UNDER the knock threshold. By using certain methods and concepts which others may not fully understand you can have the ecu run a more smooth and consistant timing curve and NOT have the ecu pulling timing which results in a rough power band and lost power. In many cases there is a fine line between just how much timing you can run before the ecu will flip out and pull 2 or 3 degrees of more of timing. Most of my cars will run a very smooth timing number and exhibit a very smooth tq curve.
It is this dance between what you are entering into the front end of the tuning map and what is going out the ignition drivers to the coils which makes the flashing of the stock ecu trickey.
Very often there will be a gap between that you are entering in the tuning maps and what the ecu is running.
Which is why good tuners are wacthing very carefully how much timing the car actually runs.
My goal is to make the timing that is being actually run by the car very smooth, and thus far I have had great success in doing so.
As for what numbers are placed in areas of the timing map that the car never runs in - such as full load at 1,000 - 2,000 rpms which is completely impossible for the car to ever run it it is really irrelevant what nunbers are placed there as the car will never run in those load zones
It is regratable that for various ulterior motivations certain individuals seem tio revel in the opportunity to discredit and ridicule others
While other tuners who have limited understanding of how the stock ecu actually functions are attempting to smear my reputation and work with these kind of simplistic attacks and negative comments, the actual track record of success and proven resulyts experienced by THOUSANDS of satisfied Dyno Flash customers fklys in direct contradiction.
I have tuned thousands of evos and yet to date there are NO reported engine failures of any kind attributed to my tuning methods - NONE. This depsite the fact that man of my customers have gone over 100,000 miles of more.
If what these other tuners were claiming were TRUE - then there would be dozens and dozens of customers of Dyno Flash with holes in their pistons and other engine failures. Simply put in actual practice Dyno Flash is very safe - in fact just as safe as a 100% stock ecu map in actual practice in well over 3,000 individual evos.
My customers have continued to go to dynos all over the United States and independantly verify that my tuning menthods produce excelent looking dyno sheets and also my customers in both Evo 8 and IX are the FASTEST in the 1/4 mile of any other reflash tuner.
PLEASE - those reading these nasty and misleading comments and accusations concerning my product keep in mind that the so called experts who are speading these comments are selling competing flashes and tuning services.
I think if anything has been shown over the last THREE YEARS I have been flashing Evos is that the tuning I am doing is producing very positive results.
I choose not to attack the work and services of my fellow vendors and really do not want to get into a pissing contest over who's concept of stock ecu flash tuning is superior.
I prefer to let the demonstrated results and expereinecs speak for themselves.
Last edited by DynoFlash; Jun 30, 2006 at 06:52 PM.