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How to Safely adjust timing

 
Old Jul 11, 2006, 06:57 PM
  #16  
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so usually at WOT you'd be above 180 load? thanks for the little how-to, it definitely helped me understand, thanks! i hear of some people making the high/low octane maps the same, this isn't reccommended then?
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Old Jul 11, 2006, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by hondafan
so usually at WOT you'd be above 180 load? thanks for the little how-to, it definitely helped me understand, thanks! i hear of some people making the high/low octane maps the same, this isn't reccommended then?
Welcome.

As far as the setting of high/low octane maps equal ... It's not something that I would ever do as part of my daily driven (or race) tune.

The only time that I've had my low octane timing map set equal to the high octane timing map was to troubleshoot why my car was pulling a couple of degrees of timing at WOT with no knock. However the low octane map was set back to its original state before the car was even pulled off the dyno.

l8r)
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Old Jul 11, 2006, 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Ludikraut
How to do this?
- open your high octane timing map
- Hit [ Alt ] + [ PrintScreen ]
- open Paint
- Click on [ Edit ] -> [ Paste ]
- Now take your RPM and Timing numbers and put them on the picture of your map
Thanks for this, before I had to copy all the cells and paste into excel when all I needed to do was [ Alt ] + [ PrintScreen ]!
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Old Jul 11, 2006, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by freddiet
By the way where in houston are you man. I went to high school in pearland, and went to Montgomery College in the Woodlands??
hahah yea man I am.
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Old Jul 11, 2006, 08:12 PM
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because the logging program Second Chance created is so useful in tuning I'm still using the v.7 EVOScan program. When something comes along that is better I will reinstall the v.8. But for now I'm extreamly happy with how my car is running.

If you want to come down this weekend I'll help you tune your car on the street. Your going to need a WB though.
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Old Jul 11, 2006, 08:21 PM
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Datlogging your run from the diag port will also tell you if you are pulling timing in a range; you want to make sure that your not using your low timing map in that range, it will tell you if you are knocking. If your RPM doesnt match your cells, look in your low timing map and see what the cells are, then adjust the corresponding cells in the range on your high timing map down a little and see if the timing changes back to the high map in that range.
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Old Jul 11, 2006, 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by stevEVO8
Datlogging your run from the diag port will also tell you if you are pulling timing in a range; you want to make sure that your not using your low timing map in that range, it will tell you if you are knocking. If your RPM doesnt match your cells, look in your low timing map and see what the cells are, then adjust the corresponding cells in the range on your high timing map down a little and see if the timing changes back to the high map in that range.
this clarifies even further for me, thanks. also, what's [printscreen]?
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Old Jul 11, 2006, 08:38 PM
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[ PrintScreen ] is the key on your keyboard that has the words Print Screen on it. Sometimes also labeled as [ PrtSc ]

l8r)
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Old Jul 11, 2006, 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by hondafan
this clarifies even further for me, thanks. also, what's [printscreen]?
Look on your keyboard above the insert button.
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Old Jul 11, 2006, 08:45 PM
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I would be very careful of what you read online and what you actually follow. Tuning is not something everyone can just pickup on. You have to put time and effort into it. Most of all understand why you're doing what you are doing.
I never tune with the knock sensor, meaning waiting for it to have counts and back it down.
Good luck.
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Old Jul 11, 2006, 08:47 PM
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When setting up base timing maps a dyno is helpful as you dont want more timing than is needed to achive MBT

Usually a good starting point is to dial in MBT on a dyno or with an accuarte G force meter and then back off 10% for saftey (with ecu flash you can only go a full degree at a time)

With good timing base map in hand then you want to get on a road and test it in all gears and varying normal operating conditions to assure that knock activity is not present with the fuel normally used


On the IX's timing is more compicated as it works hand and hand with MIVEC maps

Remember the stoc ecu uses a average on 4 boxes around the targeted map cell


Finaly, for reference the Evo ecu is reactive in terms of knock control not adaptive as in the case of a Subaru. In short in an Evo you start off with your desired Ecu timing profile and the ecu pulls away timing as the ecu percieves defined knock events based upon what the knock sensor hears. In a Subaru the ecu can add in timing in the absense of knock - (not the case on evos). For more details review my article in Turbo magzine on Evo ecus.

Last edited by DynoFlash; Jul 11, 2006 at 08:56 PM.
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Old Jul 12, 2006, 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Ludikraut
[ PrintScreen ] is the key on your keyboard that has the words Print Screen on it. Sometimes also labeled as [ PrtSc ]

l8r)
would you believe i've never used or noticed that button there before?

also, thanks for chiming in Al!
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Old Jul 12, 2006, 11:20 AM
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^^ Shocking!



l8r)
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Old Jul 12, 2006, 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by hondafan
would you believe i've never used or noticed that button there before?

also, thanks for chiming in Al!
Have you ever gotten an ID 10t error??
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Old Jul 12, 2006, 01:15 PM
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Here's a nice 3D representation of the stock timing table... notice how as load and RPM are compared, the stock ECU timing table follows a smooth ramp up of timing as RPM increases... the 3D representation makes this eas to see...



When you adjust your timing cells you want to make sure that the ramp rates between cells aren't too drastic. This could lead to all sorts of problems... a sudden "safe to knock" transition and a rather non-smooth seat of the pants feeling as you traverse different timing cells (rolling on and off the throttle rather than treating the gas pedal as an on-off switch).
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