ecu flash + bov now car flutters?
Jul 28, 2006, 07:34 PM
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ecu flash + bov now car flutters?
i just had my ecu flashed and also installed a walbro pump and forge recirc. valve and now the car feels like it surges and flutters??? could i have the wrong color spring in the recirc. valve? I left the one that comes in it and im pushing like 21psi... anyone have any ideas?
my other mods are as follows on my sig.
my other mods are as follows on my sig.
Jul 28, 2006, 09:22 PM
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yeah i noticed that makes it feel like the car just feel on its face when i let off the gas quick to is that normal? i just dont know what each color spring is rated for boost wise and it seems like the boost also drops from like 21 down to 16 when i get up in rpm's?
Jul 29, 2006, 06:15 PM
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my stocker was the plastic one! i dont think that one holds boost to well! it just seems like the car surges when i take my foot off the throttle while accelerating and it didnt do it before so i dont know if its from the flash or bov?
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Jul 29, 2006, 08:01 PM
#8
Easy answer, flash it back to the stock rom and see if it still happens.. If it still happens then its a matter of adjusting your DV/BOV, and you can put your modded rom back on..
Its real common to get fluttering or other weird drivability problems with a misadjusted valve.. It takes some time to get set up, boost level, vacuum source (and the whats tapped into it), spring pressure, adjustment, all have an impact on how it holds boost..
The correct way to adjust your DV is that it holds firm enough to stay closed under the boost you use, and can still open easily under vacuum.. Sometimes very high boost levels means you will be stuck with flutter, but at 20/21psi its not the case..
If you have the forge DV, just go to their website, it clearly says which spring represents what spring pressure, but also keep in mind, that thats the actual pressure of the spring, and not the boost pressure it holds under..
But take one step at a time, if you have the highest rated spring in there, go down one step, if it doesnt flutter anymore, and holds your boost level fine, then leave it.. If it doesnt hold boost right, add the shim, if it still flutters, go down one more step..
But before you do that, make sure that your DV has nothing else tapped into it.. The vacuum line with T's and whatnot are added restrictions that can reduce the signal to the DV, this will reduce the pressure under boost it gets (altering the assist the spring gets in staying closed) and reduces the vacuum under lift, reducing the assist the excess pressure in the pipe gets to open, hence the fluttering and not holding boost correctly.. When you have a weak signal to the BOV, you will have a hard time getting the DV to work perfectly.
In reality, the stocker at 23psi will open easily, and stay closed firmly.. But because its plastic it tends to crack at the diaphragm body over time.. At least mine did..
Its real common to get fluttering or other weird drivability problems with a misadjusted valve.. It takes some time to get set up, boost level, vacuum source (and the whats tapped into it), spring pressure, adjustment, all have an impact on how it holds boost..
The correct way to adjust your DV is that it holds firm enough to stay closed under the boost you use, and can still open easily under vacuum.. Sometimes very high boost levels means you will be stuck with flutter, but at 20/21psi its not the case..
If you have the forge DV, just go to their website, it clearly says which spring represents what spring pressure, but also keep in mind, that thats the actual pressure of the spring, and not the boost pressure it holds under..
But take one step at a time, if you have the highest rated spring in there, go down one step, if it doesnt flutter anymore, and holds your boost level fine, then leave it.. If it doesnt hold boost right, add the shim, if it still flutters, go down one more step..
But before you do that, make sure that your DV has nothing else tapped into it.. The vacuum line with T's and whatnot are added restrictions that can reduce the signal to the DV, this will reduce the pressure under boost it gets (altering the assist the spring gets in staying closed) and reduces the vacuum under lift, reducing the assist the excess pressure in the pipe gets to open, hence the fluttering and not holding boost correctly.. When you have a weak signal to the BOV, you will have a hard time getting the DV to work perfectly.
In reality, the stocker at 23psi will open easily, and stay closed firmly.. But because its plastic it tends to crack at the diaphragm body over time.. At least mine did..
Jul 30, 2006, 12:58 AM
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K thanks jack! great advice... does anyone have a diagram of how a mbc is supposed to be hooked up correctly? mine is hooked into my bov line with a t wich i dont think is right but thats how it said to hook it up when i got it!
Jul 30, 2006, 04:48 AM
#10
Originally Posted by race17k
K thanks jack! great advice... does anyone have a diagram of how a mbc is supposed to be hooked up correctly? mine is hooked into my bov line with a t wich i dont think is right but thats how it said to hook it up when i got it!
Although that location your using works fine for the MBC, there are some circumstances where it reduces/restricts the signal to the BOV.. Some people have problems, some don't. You can rule out other things before you have to change that.
Jul 30, 2006, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Warrtalon
Race17k, the old Forge is no good. You're only supposed to use the Forge RS. The old one with all those springs is a fluttering bastard.
