Something new happened today after changing spark plugs...
#1
Something new happened today after changing spark plugs...
I swapped in a nice new set of NGK BPR7EIX's (the old plugs were in really bad shape, 1 even had a pretty worn away electrode) and I started the car up in my driveway to see if the idle and response improved any over the old plugs. Sitting in neutral and with both the clutch in and out I'd blip the throttle up to around 3000 rpms or so, and I'd catch my knock cel blinking at me!! Now I have the knock light set so it's not supposed to come on unless I'm at 70% load or higher, so why is this stupid thing going off? Every time I rev the engine, the light flashes...clutch in or out, doesn't matter. I'm pretty frustrated with it right now, I can't even datalog it because my laptop's being a POS and won't connect to my LC1, and even mitsulogger won't stay connected to it for more than 3 minutes. Any ideas what's going on here? I'm getting low on gas, not sure if that would have anything to do with it.
#4
I haven't taken it for a drive yet, but it seems to run fine otherwise. The car ran great and still runs great for that matter. Lately I've been having an issue with the cel knock light flashing on when I'm at the 3000 rpm range. It never used to do this, only thing I've really done to the fuel/timing map lately was lower my peak load timing by 2 degrees and around the 2500-3500 rpm range (from 60% load to 100%) and increase a bit of fuel here and there and smooth everything out on the maps. Heck, I even dropped boost pressure back down to stock for the winter. And for some reason every time I reflash the car it knocks profusely (according to the light anyway) for the first day or 2 and then only comes on occasionally there after.
#7
Evolved Member
iTrader: (17)
My first question too.
A tighter gap will decrease the chance of a proper burn at low loads and increase the chance of misfires, though it ensures the spark plug jumps the gap with high cylinder pressures. Try increasing the gap by .004" (assuming you dont have the gap wayy too big now)and see if it still does it, just to see if it is in fast related the the gap.
A tighter gap will decrease the chance of a proper burn at low loads and increase the chance of misfires, though it ensures the spark plug jumps the gap with high cylinder pressures. Try increasing the gap by .004" (assuming you dont have the gap wayy too big now)and see if it still does it, just to see if it is in fast related the the gap.
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#8
I have the gap set at .026" right now. I did another reflash last night and changed some of the lean spool fuel values and knocked timing down through that trouble area from what I had it at with the stock rom (had used stock rom values up to the 100% load cells) and mysteriously it stopped knocking lol. Tried to hook up my adapter cable to datalog from my fiance's new laptop, but still no luck connecting (which is weird because it used to work just fine). I just never thought I'd hit up to 100% load sitting out of gear and free-revving the motor. I'll probably turn it back up to above 90% load and see what it does. Thanks guys!
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