Dynos and "Knock"
Nov 3, 2008, 09:26 PM
#16
exactly! I do think I will be posting up my experience, because my final ROM is/was not IDEAL... No need to start any drama other than I just wasted 2 tanks of gas and the fee for a tune... 
2 - 3 counts isnt my issue w/ the tune. #'s werent even the issue! My problem w/ the tune is multiple discrepencies on how the ROM shoud be set up...
screw it, Im not naming any1... So heres my experience!
1. I was told that he would diable leanspool, and tune w/ out. I do a couple pulls the following morning, and notice a dip in AFR between 2500 - 3000. I look up my leanspool maps and it still enabled from 2500 - 2594... I dont understand the methodology on this... I disabled it completely by setting both to 2500 and the dip is gone!
2. I was told that he was gonna be lowering the boost. Which he did NOT! Still hitting 25-26 psi @ peak.
3. My BDEL's and MWGDC's #1 and 3 were his maps, and #2 were the maps from "MY" tune... WTF??? His method of setting up boost is different than Mine/Bryans, and almost every1 elses for that matter. I had MWGDC @ 100% up to 2500 to help spool, but he had a smooth 77% for most of the map(GM BCS)... Since upgrading to the GM BCS I noticed most had it @ 100% till 2000, which is where Im gonna start when I retune my car!
4. TBEC was COMPLETELY zeroed out... Even overboosting corrections were zeroed out.
IDK... From what I have read, all 3 maps should be the same, and when using the GM BCS its even more important to have the TBEC dialed in.
So Basically, now I just want confirmation that MY methodology is on the right path...
2 - 3 counts isnt my issue w/ the tune. #'s werent even the issue! My problem w/ the tune is multiple discrepencies on how the ROM shoud be set up...
screw it, Im not naming any1... So heres my experience!
1. I was told that he would diable leanspool, and tune w/ out. I do a couple pulls the following morning, and notice a dip in AFR between 2500 - 3000. I look up my leanspool maps and it still enabled from 2500 - 2594... I dont understand the methodology on this... I disabled it completely by setting both to 2500 and the dip is gone!
2. I was told that he was gonna be lowering the boost. Which he did NOT! Still hitting 25-26 psi @ peak.
3. My BDEL's and MWGDC's #1 and 3 were his maps, and #2 were the maps from "MY" tune... WTF??? His method of setting up boost is different than Mine/Bryans, and almost every1 elses for that matter. I had MWGDC @ 100% up to 2500 to help spool, but he had a smooth 77% for most of the map(GM BCS)... Since upgrading to the GM BCS I noticed most had it @ 100% till 2000, which is where Im gonna start when I retune my car!
4. TBEC was COMPLETELY zeroed out... Even overboosting corrections were zeroed out.
IDK... From what I have read, all 3 maps should be the same, and when using the GM BCS its even more important to have the TBEC dialed in.
So Basically, now I just want confirmation that MY methodology is on the right path...
Nov 4, 2008, 07:16 AM
#18
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I went to the shop because I wanted to upgrade to the GM BCS (not mechanically inclined), and the only shop that does the install, diagnose my issue that I WAS having (IDK what happened) and turn Leanspool off. I have read that people had some issues diabling and tuning initially, and apparently Im lacking in confidence, and tired of chancing it on the streets! but as I go on, Im realizing that my reading is actually paying off. 
I still have much to learn!
I would also like to find a shop I can deal w/ on a regular for every need of my EVO!
I sent him an e-mail, but I know no matter how I bring this to his attention he will get irritated! I asked him questions on his methodology. But answer me this... All 3 maps should be the same for consistency correct? And what was my BDEL and MWGDC map doing in HIS tune?
Has any else set "LeanSpool to 2500 and 2594, and what is the methodology behind it? I just dont understand... trying to...
I was hoping to be completely happy, and give him a great write up. But when I got home to look at the ROM... well I had many questions...
I still have much to learn!I would also like to find a shop I can deal w/ on a regular for every need of my EVO!
I sent him an e-mail, but I know no matter how I bring this to his attention he will get irritated! I asked him questions on his methodology. But answer me this... All 3 maps should be the same for consistency correct? And what was my BDEL and MWGDC map doing in HIS tune?
Has any else set "LeanSpool to 2500 and 2594, and what is the methodology behind it? I just dont understand... trying to...
I was hoping to be completely happy, and give him a great write up. But when I got home to look at the ROM... well I had many questions...
Nov 4, 2008, 03:01 PM
#21
still using the load based method, but gonna give "direct boost control" a shot this weekend, since I wanna re-tune the car for 24psi. I wanna see what 24psi w/ 5* @ peak will net me, opposed to 26psi w/ 3* @ peak... I have been using a "shortcut" method of tuning, and now I am gonna start from scratch starting w/ like 60% WGDC till I see what I want... Also I wanna try to set the WGDC to 100% up to 2000 and see if I can still keep myself from over shooting the BDEL/over boosting...
Nov 4, 2008, 03:48 PM
#26
I think you've progressed to the point where you can dyno tune yourself. Try to find a Mustang or DD dyno locally and schedule some self-tuning time. Sure beats the gas and dyno $$ you will waste having someone else do it. Since it seems there are a lot more of us who are fairly decent at self tuning on the streets but need more consistency to realllly dial in our own tunes, I asked Bryan to make a thread on how to go about self-tuning on a dyno. Not to teach someone how to tune but more on what to do prior to the appointment to save you precious minutes you're paying for. Also some of his wisdom on which things to tackle first so you dont need to revisit a portion of your tune twice. I think he is the man that has the dyno sessions down to a science with tons of evo tunes under his belt so he was the best choice.....and he's cool and I know he wouldn't mind helping everyone out [/*** kissing].
Or....pay Bryan lots of money to drive up to you,lol.
Or....pay Bryan lots of money to drive up to you,lol.
Last edited by Jack_of_Trades; Nov 4, 2008 at 03:50 PM.
Nov 4, 2008, 07:03 PM
#27
I think you've progressed to the point where you can dyno tune yourself. Try to find a Mustang or DD dyno locally and schedule some self-tuning time. Sure beats the gas and dyno $$ you will waste having someone else do it. Since it seems there are a lot more of us who are fairly decent at self tuning on the streets but need more consistency to realllly dial in our own tunes, I asked Bryan to make a thread on how to go about self-tuning on a dyno. Not to teach someone how to tune but more on what to do prior to the appointment to save you precious minutes you're paying for. Also some of his wisdom on which things to tackle first so you dont need to revisit a portion of your tune twice. I think he is the man that has the dyno sessions down to a science with tons of evo tunes under his belt so he was the best choice.....and he's cool and I know he wouldn't mind helping everyone out [/*** kissing].
Or....pay Bryan lots of money to drive up to you,lol.
Or....pay Bryan lots of money to drive up to you,lol.
@ this point I have wasted over $1000 on tuning... If I knew then, what I know now, I would have just offered that to Bryan...
I tried starting a thread in SoCalEvo to see if there was any interest in getting Bryan to make a tuning trip... and only 1 person responded... 
Too many fan bois, or too many peeps running MBC's... IDK kinda sucked! 
If I were to get some "dyno time" I would definitely need to work on my speed calculating the data, then to calculate the changes... I like to take at least 3 to 4 pulls and look for consistency and average out any inconsistencies. That takes me a while... Im assuming you would make changes after each individual pull on the dyno. And even then it would still take me a min... I still read my logs w/ excell. I need to work on it I guess.
Nov 4, 2008, 07:32 PM
#28
If I were to get some "dyno time" I would definitely need to work on my speed calculating the data, then to calculate the changes... I like to take at least 3 to 4 pulls and look for consistency and average out any inconsistencies. That takes me a while... Im assuming you would make changes after each individual pull on the dyno. And even then it would still take me a min... I still read my logs w/ excell. I need to work on it I guess.
First I tone down the timing a bit or start with a stock timing map.
Then I usually start with the fuel curve because it stays put for the most part and only needs tweaks in certain areas as the tuning progress'.
Next I dial in the boost curve (depending how close it was from the target boost). If boost is going to go up quite a bit from its current level I may richen the fuel up and dial in the boost curve first.
Last, timing timing timing.
I'd love to read Bryans 'bible' though,lol. I'm sure I'll learn something from him