Gary@MellonRacing

iTrader: (74)

MAP installed a block-off plug IN THE HEAD so that zero EGR gasses make it to the intake manifold


were can i get this ???

logic

iTrader: (2)

I just did this last weekend, so I can suggest one possible way to do it: the EGR passage in the head is sized just about perfectly for an 1/8" NPT tap to thread without drilling. I hit up a local NAPA, picked up an 1/8" NPT allen plug (they might call it a set screw, socket screw, socket plug, or doo-dad, depending on the skill of your local parts shop), tapped the EGR passage while the intake manifold was off for some other work, and installed the plug. Easy as pie. Mmm, pie.

I'd love to take credit for that, but I borrowed the idea from tkklemann's post from earlier this year.

fostytou

iTrader: (15)

Probably from MAP ( http://www.maperformance.com/ )

AF-Evo8

iTrader: (113)

does anyone have a how-to for removing the EGR and exactly what need to be removed.
thanks

wasabisnooter

iTrader: (13)

subbing

nitz

iTrader: (3)

anyone have pictures of where the standard egr equipment is on a usdm evo (where you use the block off plate) and of the port in the head that some people block off as well. i'm running an usdm 8 motor in my jdm 6 which has no egr equipment and would like to make sure i'm not sending uneccessary exhaust gases into my intake. thanks

logic

iTrader: (2)

You can see the EGR passage of the intake manifold in the lower-right of the flange in this picture:


The head-side of this looks like this (far lower-left side of the head):


As for the valve itself and where the block-off plate goes, here's a good picture (linking rather than embedding, because it's very large). The EGR valve flange is the diamond-shaped one at the bottom of the picture.

nitz

iTrader: (3)

logic thanks tons for that. i couldn't have asked for anything better.

Fast_Freddie

iTrader: (50)

Finally got around to installing the block off plate yesterday... however noticed something weird...

First set bits to

Periphery 0/FAA:
-EGR(ign advance) Bit 11 disable(set to "1")

Periphery 2/FCA:
- EGR > Bit 9 Disable ("0")

Periphery 4/FEA:
- FPR> Bit 7 Disable ("0")

92 Octane Boost at 26/27 psi tapering to 20/21 at redline

Went out to tune and AFRs were 11 tapering to 10.8 at redline, a couple of 1 counts at 6000 rpm... with 11 degrees of timing at the redline. Sweet

I leaned the mixture out to 11.3 tapering to 11 at redline and immediately picked up consistent 6 counts at 6000 rpm. Crap!

Left the AFR's the same and took out 2 degrees of timing and I was fine on the knock... only at 9 degrees of timing at redline now... geeesh!

Since I was running lower timing up top I just reverted back to the how the car was the first run with slightly richer AFRs (11 tapering to 10.8) and this run yielded no knock...

Now my question is what exactly is happening when I change 0/FAA bit 11 (EGR/Ignition adv)?

tkklemann

iTrader: (6)

Yay! I am glad someone is reproducing my mod I did a looonnnngggg time ago! (Not sarcasm, kinda happy someone else is doing it.)

If anyone wants to know how to do it, I can help. Its a really REALLY easy mod to do if you have your intake manifold off, or better yet, the head off the car.



Quote:
Originally Posted by GrocMax
EGR at cruise reduces pump losses. You slow the pistons down on intake stroke trying to pull 35 kpa vs trying to pull 65 kpa, think negative HP.




How can this be true? For reference, the EGR gasses ONLY come from Cylinder 4, Cylinders 3, 2 & 1 do not supply EGR gasses to the intake manifold in any way. EGR only comes from the exhaust port in Cylinder 4. Also, the EGR port dumps gasses into the entire intake manifold, so I do not see any way that any sort of pumping is reduced. If the motor is in a steady state cruise, it is taking in X amount of vacuum regardless if the EGR is open or not. The pumping caracteristics of the motor didn't change because unless the RPM goes either up or down, the vacuum from the piston speed/movement is not changed, the displacement of the cylinders didn't change, so how can the motor's vacuum change wether the EGR is open or not? The motor is still trying to fill the exact same displacement created by the piston moving down in an unchanged bore/stroke. Furthermore, what was said about slowing the pistons down can't be true, because if you are slowing the pistons down, then you are decelerating and not in a steady state cruise, and vacuum will change anyways. Also, at a steady state cruise I can imagine that your exhaust velocity isn't high enough to cause a high enough decrease in vacuum in the intake manifold, causing the dilution of the intake change. Gas flow is goign to take the path of least resistance, and most likley that would be through the turbo and out the exhaust. I can imagine that with the EGR passage way measuring in at roughly 0.33", the EGR passage way is under vacuum rather than a positive charge of dumping exhaust into the intake manifold, thus acting more like its a scavenge port. Plus, if you look in the head itself and see the entrance to the EGR port, you will see its backwards to the flow of the exhaust gasses. Once again, with that said, EGR open or not, I can't see any increase or decrease in vacuum/pump losses just because the EGR is open or closed. The motor is taking in the same amount of air, because the RPM or displacement never changed in that steady state cruise.

Maybe I just need a coffee break, but that really doesn't make any sense to me..

fostytou

iTrader: (15)

These too:

Engine bay
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ec...lenoids-4.html

canister off
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ec...val-cel-3.html

fostytou

iTrader: (15)

Help away, what did you fill with?

tkklemann

iTrader: (6)

While I had the head off the car, I was poking around it and was trying to think of a way to totally block off the EGR port to keep the hot exhaust gasses out of the intake manifold itself. See, too many people worry about putting the heat spacers in between the manifold and head when it really doesn't do much because you still have 900*+ exhaust gasses inside of the EGR runner on the intake manifold.

Basically, to make a long story short, I pulled out my digital verniers and measured the hole diameter and it dang near came out to exactly the tap drill diameter for a standard old 1/8" NPT thread. So, I stuck my 1/8" NPT tap in there, and ran the tap in about 2". I ordered a stainless 1/8" NPT plug, and tightened it in there really good. It currently sits in the hole about 0.5" deep, away from the intake manifold mating surface. Since I have had it in there, I have put estimated 15,000 miles on the car, and every time I pull the intake manifold off, I check it to make sure it hasnt come loose. So far, no issues to report.

It's really that simple. Measure your port hole (Because it is a cast in runner "tube" if you will) and as long as it is really close and not too big, then just oil up an 1/8" NPT tap and have at it. I would definately stay away from a brass plug though due to the heat.

You technically could do it with the head on the car, and just vacuum out the port to get all the shavings out of the hole. It will work because the other end of the port is in the exhaust chanmber, and open to atmospheric pressure, so if you stick the vacuum on the hole it should get all your shavings out no problem.

mrfred

iTrader: (50)

FAA bit11 disables the EGR ignition advance adder table. If you have an Evo 9, you should be able to see the table in ECUFlash. Advance only occurs at low load and rpm.

FCA bit9 disables the EGR OBD test. Has nothing to do with engine performance.

FEA bit7 disables the fuel pressure OBD test. Again, this should have nothing to do with engine performance.

Fast_Freddie

iTrader: (50)

Mr Fred... I had already disabled the bits and everything last week when I put the block off plate in... I was just wondering exactly what FAA Bit 11 actually did as I really didn't see a huge change in my timing tables after logging... I know EGR only works while basically in cruise...

Update...

Rescaled my load axis to get a bit more resolution from 220-300 load and timing is much more consistent and I am able to run a bit leaner 11.3-11.4 tapering to 11 at redline... good to go now!