Broxma

iTrader: (14)

I am planning on doing this in my GVR4. I have a spare 1G ECU lying around with the harness connectors cut about 6 inches from the box already so the patch should be fairly easy. I can probably get more if I need as well.

I also think it is safe to assume the 92 GVR4 and a 92 TEL would be extremely similar if not exactly the same as far as the ECU is concerned. I know a 1G ECU will fire up a GVR4 without any changes at all. JIC though I will double check the pin outs between the two but I am pretty sure they are the same.

My first question is did you use an OBDII plug scavenged from another car and wire that to the EVO ecu or just use the factory OBDI plug and how do those pin outs work. The sheet describing it a few posts down is somewhat vague in that aspect.

/brox

BlackMage

You need to let me know how that goes, I'd love to go SD over a MAF for a while to see if it really is that much better than a MAF. I also think I figured out which A/C pin needs to be hooked up for the A/C to work as well as do an ABS scan if 1G ABS can be read via the ABS stuff on this car using EvoScan.

You can use any OBD II plug as long as Pins 4/5/7/16 are pinned on it. The OBD I plug is just for reflashing purposes only.

1G/GVR4 use the same ECU and it should all be fine and dandy as long as it's not a 90.

enash99

I have a question about the wiring harness I need. I have a 92 Auto AWD Talon TSI. Does this change anything in regards to the harness i need to build mine? Can I still find any Mitsubishi car from 2000 and up in a junk yard and cut off the plugs that go into the ECU? So far I took the ECU out of a 1993 eclipse GS (non turbo) I have un sodered the white pluge to make the male end that ill connect into my 92 harness. Now as for the side that will connect into the EVO Viii ECU which car is the best to cut a harness out of? I am heading to a few junk yards tomorrow AM to get one. I am working on my EVO Viii ECU now. I think I have one I am going to buy. If it becomes available. Also can I use a JDM EVO ECU?

So really 2 questions there if someone can answer them for me. I happen to have the plugs out of a 99 talon es. But i dont know if those will work. I also am cutting the OBDII out of it as well. Which white plug do i need?

0xDEAD

iTrader: (3)

99 talon es uses chrystler ecu I think. You need the plugs from a 95-2005 4 cyl mitsubishi engined car. The white flash connector from the 1g DSM will work. Or you can bypass the white flash mitsu connector, it is just the flash enable. YOu can just wire it straight from the 1.3 cable to the ecu pin 79.

enash99

Well IF its a 4cycl Galant from 2000 or 99 which i checked today they only have 3 plugs for ECU.

Now I pulled a 97 and 99 harness from a mirage and they have the 4 lugs same as evo. SO if your going to a junk yard make sure your getting a car that has 4 plugs in the ecu.

ALso which is the white plug? I think i got it. I cut outseveral white plugs from around the ECU so one of them must be it =). I also tried to get these front brakes from a 1992 3000GT. but there is a damn wheel lock on it. I want those calipars bad. Will look good paint on my 92 talon. What other 3000GT parts work? Rear brakes? wheels>? they are bigger. more grip. And the 300GT has a 3Inch Exhaust too. Is that stock or not?

BlackMage

Non-turbo S/3 brakes are the same as DSM big brakes afaik. VR-4 brakes with fit with a bracket, in theory the rear brake setup from a vr-4 should bolt on but hasn't been tested. I should have Evo brakes on my car soon as I have cash to purchase a set of VR4 ebrake assemblies.

the_mork

iTrader: (1)

3000gt rims will work on a dsm but you will need wheel spacers for a 1g of any sort and probably worse for awd. I ran a set of 3000gt NA rims on my 2g fwd for a bit without wheel spacers but the rears rubbed the tires a little bit.

eyebrowski

Here is the schematic I have have been working on for the past few months:

http://docs.google.com/fileview?id=0...Mzk1NWY3&hl=en

It is slightly different the JOT's original schematic. Discuss.

logic

iTrader: (2)

Link is dead? "Sorry, the page (or document) you have requested is not available."

eyebrowski

Try it now, the permissions were screwy.

0xDEAD

iTrader: (3)

In your notes on the bottom you can remove the 91-94 VSS. The 90 VSS works fine as tested in my car. Looks very good though, much more professional than my chicken scratch.

0xDEAD

iTrader: (3)

Also, I nearly have all the peripheries set up. I just gotta get rid of the 0622 code that I am throwing and I will have a rom that runs fine. It isn't throwing a CEL at the moment, but I can only run the car on jackstands due to the weather.

eyebrowski

Thanks, I will pull that note. I forget why I added it..could it possibly be needed for SD, NLTS, or a boost mod? If the '90 VSS is fully compatible with the EVO ECU I don't see why it would be needed.

I haven't messed with the ROM yet and really don't know where to start, this will be my next step. Any info that you can share would be helpful.

0xDEAD

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, I will share it when I get it finalized. I don't want to throw something out that I haven't had time to work with only to make a new post with the actual correct info. I will work on this hopefully saturday.

I had made a mention of the evo ecu needing a 2g and up VSS. I knew that the 1g used a different way to do the VSS and assumed it was incompatible. However it is compatible across all model years from 1990-2006. If you don't run the VSS you may throw a CEL, but it can probably be disabled. I use it for the gear based boost control.

0xDEAD

iTrader: (3)

As promised I got what seems to be a working set of peripheries for the JDM rom and may work for the USDM rom. It throws a P0505 when I had it idling at 2000rpm and was going to disable that one as well but it stopped throwing it when I brought the manual idle back down to 1000rpm or so. I have mrfreds rear o2 heater patch and rear o2 sim. I don't have the front O2 heater hooked up but it is not throwing a code, not sure why. Also it seems to have stopped throwing the alternator code, not sure why. I can only run the car with the wheels in the air but have had it on for 10-15mins at a time and ran the wheels to 120mph and went into boost by riding the brakes. Also antilag works. For the stationary rev limit you have to ground the ecu clutch input. The top clutch switch does this nicely as it is closed when the clutch is in. When the switch is open (clutch up) you will have to give the ecu 12 through a pullup resistor so that the ecu doesen't accidently trigger a NLTS when the car is moving.

Also the wiring diagrams that were posed a couple post back seem to be fine. I looked at them real quick and am actually starting to make notes on them because they are more organized than mine. I am wired up for speed density, so a couple things are different.