3gturbo

iTrader: (4)

A harness would be cool for the 1g

Broke4speed

Some good Visio practice, lol.

The harness is so simple to make, it's not worth buying one IMO.

rts91tsi

True, but I got plenty of practice in my electronics fabrication class in college.

The harness's are easy to make, but some folks aren't as thrifty, or as resourceful as others, and would prefer to pay someone for a professionally made one. However, I'll be making my own like you have as well.

Architechnik

A harness would be nice, but not really necessary; if we could get the connectors new somewhere without having to buy 150 of them or spend $50 each would also be efficient.

If someone were to manufacture a harness, it would probably go for about $150 because of the difficulty sourcing new parts, while making one out of an old ECU would be about $20 if you pay for the ECU and wires.

Can anyone list which ROMs their using?
I'll be going SD from the get-go and I haven't decided between the EDM Option 3 or 5 listed on the Tephra7 page. I can see they are different in the XML definitions and layout, but it's difficult to tell if they're different in functionality.

It looks like option 3 is an either-or between SD and MAF, while the 5 is setup to go just with SD. I don't even see the full VE comp table in the option 3 version for some reason. Is it just a mini-patch, or what?

Broke4speed

The Tephra SD ROMS are 2D, so two small tables vs. a big 3D table. There's a MAP VE and an RPM VE, and you tune with those. The 3D SD ROMS are available too, but not in the Tephra thread. If you look up a user by the name of "RoadSpike", he's got a thread with the 3D SD roms in it.

The 'option 3' ROM is basically the SD rom with the DMA logging patch required for Live-mapping with Evo Live Map. Option 5 has no live-mapping capability, but all the good code mods. Either version will work in a 1G, but option 5 is pretty much where you want to start if you don't plan on live-mapping right off the bat. Option 3 can be set up with all the same code mods as option 5, so either ROM is fine.

Architechnik

Okay, I guess I originally grabbed the 3D version of the VE table because it looked more like what I'm used to seeing: full RPM vs MAP

I'm guessing that will be the better/easier option for me to track down points with higher efficiency and or problem areas. I guess that's kind of contradictory for most people, considering the smaller maps would be easier for a set-it-and-forget-it tune when you have something to compare with or a base level.

rts91tsi

I finally finished making my patch harness, and decided that I would use the power supply that I made in electronics fabrication class for a bench flashing setup to use indoors so I don't have to freeze my butt off outside.

The harness could have turned out a little better, but overall I'm pleased with the result. I've yet to remove the unused pins from the 1g header connector, and also I might remove the wire numbers I used to keep everything sorted. I still have a few "flying items" to connect, WB o2 analog signal, and MAP sensor for logging boost since I'll be utilizing the Evo 8 MAF. I will make the "flying" connections via independent connectors to make utilizing my flash bench easier.

I figured I would share a picture of the finished product, and my bench, post flashing OPs.

Broke4speed

More dredging up of old topics...

In the regards of fan control, how has everyone sorted it?

I'm not a fan of using a maxed out PWM output to run a relay, even if the Hz is high enough to keep it from cycling on/off. The A/C fans on an Evo are controlled by relays though, and the outputs are switched grounds. Why not just run a single fan relay off one of those, and modify the thermo fan tables to have 0% or 100% (switched ground) in the A/C Fan category? That column would then become your fan control.

Thoughts?

Failing that, and not wanting to hunt down the PWM controller from a stock mitsubishi, the 2000-2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee uses a nice solid state relay for it's PWM fan control. That would grant the ability to use the table in full, and is $29 on Amazon w/pigtail .

Dynotech Tuning

iTrader: (12)

The A/C fan output might only activate if it see's the A/C line pressure activate the A/C switch. So you need to find what kind of input the ECU needs to receive to allow the A/C fans to activate. I will look at my notes later to get more info.

-Jamie

Broke4speed

Hmm, hadn't thought of that. I'll take a peek in the FSM too .

[edit]
Just did a bit of checking. Pin 4 of the A/C ECU is 12v out with the A/C switch on and the blower switch on, and that runs directly to the A/C pressure switch. When the gates in the switch are closed (32-ish PSI for the low, 341-ish PSI for the high), the 12v continues to pin 45 of the ECU. The grounds are probably activated by that, according to the diagrams pin 45 is connected to 32 and 34 (which are grounds for the relays)

Dynotech Tuning

iTrader: (12)

Most DSM's use a thermo switch to ground the factory fan relays and turn on the fans. For most people, they won't need to worry about the ECU controlling the fans.

-Jamie

Broke4speed

I gave my stock fan/rad away, thinking I was going to go with an aftermarket setup...only to get broker than broke, and be a rad away from driving my car, lol.

I've snagged a free rad, but it's a 2G, so there's no thermo switch. I know I could wait a bit and do the stock stuff again...but I like the challenge of working with what's available.

wreckleford

iTrader: (2)

Every Evo 8 ECU conversion I have done has used the a/c fan outputs to control both the radiator fan and a/c fan. I actually thought that was how everyone was doing it.

If you look in the FSM you will see that the a/c does not need to be on for the a/c fan (condenser fan to be totally correct) to turn on.

Broke4speed

Good to know!
I've decided to go with PWM control of the fan, since it's a cool option to be played with once and then forgotten, lol. The 2000-2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee uses PWM fan control through a solid-state relay hidden under the passenger headlight. They're plentiful in the junkyards, and cheaper than the Mitsubishi fan control module, which is pretty much the same thing.

Dynotech Tuning

iTrader: (12)

The primary fan output is most certainly a PWM output and I would t recommend running it directly to a relay. You'll either burn out the output circuit on the ECU over time or start killing relays. Even with the A/C off, the condenser fan will turn on if the coolant temps exceed a specified coolant temp to help combat dangerously high coolant temps. If you want to directly control your primary fan from the ECU the correct way, you need to use the PWM module.

-Jamie