Raceghost

iTrader: (4)

I have a pierburg that clicks like wrachet from 2500 on into the higher revs if it is cold out side. I have been chasing it for a few now. It goes away when I depress the clutch and let off the gas or the revs fall below approx 2000 rpms. I cut a small piece of plumbers tape to mount the peirburg to the stock BCS mount. No tick on the frame, all is secure and tight. I am beginning to think it is faulty. Boost holds though, no elevated knock either. Question is how to get rid of the clickty clickty sound it makes. It is loud and seems like an achilies heel.

Jack_of_Trades

iTrader: (17)

This is generally false knock due to the ECU trying to interpolate thru some DRASTIC fuel/timing changes so quickly. If you log your timing curve while you free rev your engine you'll see how drastic it really is. I don't think this is a sign of a faulty knock sensor but more to do with ECU data fluctuations somehow.

MR Turco

iTrader: (16)

I recently replaced my GM BCS with a new one. The old one had been on a couple previous cars and i thought it was leaking. Both the old and new one were hard mounted to the chassis in the oem bolt hole under the intake. My old one i could hear clicking but never registered as knock. I could hear it from inside the cabin too.

dyezak

iTrader: (3)

I am new to the EVO community, but I had this issue on an Eclipse GSX before. Kept getting false knock from random things, one was my solenoid for my AVCR. I remounted things and moved them around until I was blue in the face. It turned out to be a faulty knock sensor. I replaced it with a new one and all false knock went away.

SoCalRedLine

iTrader: (2)

Hey guys, sorry bout the delay. Finally got intarweb at my house (student=broke)

@JOT: I have it wired in with a 10ohm 1watt resistor in series with the solenoid. That should put it in the same resistance and amperage as the stock sensor, correct? You might be onto something with the demand on the system.
-I had this happen most when I had my "min load for WGDC" set below 110% at the low 2-3.5k rpm range. I have since put them up to 120% without any major change in spool time, and the noise has moved to those loads.

I am not fully sold on wtf causes the false knock, but the very few logs I have may show a slight correlation between the two. Its not enough sampling to make a complete analysis, but I can say for 100% certainty that I can hear my BCS ticking whenever it turns on .

Since posting this thread there havent been any cold days here in CA (damn this perfect weather...lol) and I havent had any issue with the knock light coming on when the BCS kicks in at low loads. On the rare occasion when it is a colder 50ish degree morning ill get a few flashes on the knock light and a short 2count on the gps logger.

ill go out and grab the SD card out of the logger and see if i can post up a compiled log.

Tune Details:
Lowered "Min Load for BCS control" to 80% load in the areas where it is above 80%

the log file is attached

toxic-evo

iTrader: (12)

bump,mine clicks as well. i thought it was a very faint sound of a rod bearing going out and freaked myself out. anyone know if there's a fix for the click? or just live withit aslong as there is no false knock occuring?

AWDBus

iTrader: (9)

Have you tried to oil it. I would give it just a drop of oil via the line and see if it helps. We run tons of air valves (MAC air valves) and we have to oil them from time to time when they start to lock up.

domyz

iTrader: (6)

FYI, I mounted mine with rubber (Grimmspeed), brand new and it's was clicking I can still hear it. The solenoid purge air into the intake so that is not helping at all. I'm getting rid of this loud AEM metal intake for a FP silicone intake/Custom box and switch to SD soon, it should help silent the BOV and the clicking.

Raptord

iTrader: (10)

I'm guessing you haven't read the rest of the thread. Add some sort of insulation between the solenoid and the frame. Foam, rubber, etc.

domyz

iTrader: (6)

double post

domyz

iTrader: (6)

Didn't work for me with rubber the first time. I should try softer material like foam. Thanks!
Edit: Raptord, Is your solenoid purge routed into the intake or simply underhood?

Raptord

iTrader: (10)

To the intake

Dynotech Tuning

iTrader: (12)

I generally set the 'WGDC = 100 above this load' to about 110-140 (depending on the setup) to eliminate listening to it click as often during cruise conditions.

-Jamie

domyz

iTrader: (6)

Either that or raise the minimum load for boost control will work for cruise.

03Ev0luti0n

iTrader: (1)

How does this solve the pulsating issue you hear under boost? i understand the purge is what is creating the pulsating sound by bleeding air.. but by raising the minimum required for boost control wouldn't you just hear it at another RPM range?